Veritas BU Jointer - short review

[John Keeton]

Sometime last week I received some of the new toys I purchased at the WIA conference. Among those was the Veritas BU Jointer, which I ordered with the 38* blade. Until today, I just have not had the time to get it setup.

First thing was to get the blade flattened and honed. Let me say flattening took just under 15 seconds!! The blade was dead flat!

I then checked the factory bevel angle, and found that it was about 32* (on a 38* blade.) I could also tell that there was a slight concavity from side to side on the bevel. In addition, there was a very slight microbevel, and I could not determine the precise angle of that grind.

In any event, I chucked the blade up in my Veritas MK II jig, and set it at 32* so that I could get the bevel flat. That actually took a while, as the concavity was more than it first appeared to be. I took that bevel all the way to a polish.

Then, I reset the jig to 35*, and honed a 1/8" microbevel to a polish.

I had already told my wife I would get this done in time to take her out to eat, so I didn't have much time to fettle with the plane. I quickly set the mouth (a breeze), and gently dropped in the blade. I attached the fence, although I didn't true it up for the sake of time.

These were the first edge shavings pulled with the jointer.
126480
And, this is the first face shaving - I was impressed!!
126482
Still need to tweak the lateral adjustment a bit, and true up the fence, but I already have the same appreciation for this plane as I do the BUS, and the BU jack. They are simply superb planes. I am really looking forward to my next project, and a little more intense use of my new Veritas "trilogy."
126481

[Sam Takeuchi]

Good summary of a good product. I simply adore Veritas BU/LA line of products. They are a bargain for such high quality and versatility. The only thing I don't like about Veritas BU jointer is that you can't use it on its side. What I do requires jointing really thin long boards (between 1/8 to 1/4" thick) and using fence isn't practical. If BU Jointer had flat sides, I'd sell both Stanley #7 (type 9 and 11) in a heart beat.

[John Keeton]

Sam, the jack plane does a real nice job on a shooting board, but I don't know if that would be enough length for you.

[Walt Caza]

Hi John,
Looking good... thanks for the review.
I have the coffin shaped LV BU smoother and the LV BU jack,
which I built a shooting board for...
I have wondered about the LV BU jointer.

I admire your now-completed trilogy.
Sweet versatility is now yours with just a few irons.
Slight quibble: I wish they'd call it BU jack, instead of Low Angle jack.
Seems it would invite less confusion?

I am scarcely neander, but I just love these handplanes.
I find the adjustments quick and easy with little fiddling around... (ya, fettling)

I now polish to 8000 on Norton water stones.
(and often LV green compound on MDF, about 9000)
I know our pal Gary Z. is a fanatic who probably uses a finer grit than that...
how high do you go?
see you in the sawdust,
be well,
Walt

ps I am curious about your 1/8" microbevel?
I just lick it, maybe 1/32".
Care to share your thoughts on that??

[John Keeton]

Walt, at the risk of starting a "plane war", I prefer the LV BU planes to anything and everything that I have tried - and, I have tried them all!:D I am sure a good bit of it is personal preference, but they are just extemely well engineered. I am not a traditionalist, and not looking like the old Stanley designs doesn't bother me.

My scary sharp board , starts with 150 grit, then 220, 320, 400, 600, 1200, then 2000. That should be about what you are doing. I finish off with green compound on mdf. My edges are mirror finish, and easily shave hair.

The 1/8" microbevel was simply what it took to get rid of the rest of the concavity of the factory edge. I wouldn't normally go that deep, but I don't use microbevels often.

[Tim Put]

IMHO, you didn't need to grind/hone out the hollow.
Why did you?

[John Keeton]

Tim, this wasn't a "hollow grind", but a concavity across the blade such that the center of the edge was not even with the corners. A reverse camber if that makes better sense. I am not sure why or how it was ground that way, but it certainly would not have been functional that way.

[jerry nazard]

Tim, this wasn't a "hollow grind", but a concavity across the blade such that the center of the edge was not even with the corners. A reverse camber if that makes better sense. I am not sure why or how it was ground that way, but it certainly would not have been functional that way.

"Reverse camber". John, I really like that trailing posterior verbiage. I believe that a thread on "reverse camber" could potentially generate great interest and a high number of posts... on another forum.... <gr>

On a more serious note, you have convinced me to order a LV BU jack.

-Jerry

[Jacob Mac]

Johnn,

I totally agree with your sentiments. Based on your advice I bought the LV BU trifecta, and I love them. They are so easy to adjust, and they really fit my hand well. I am thrilled. When my wife so the cc bill, she wasn't thrilled. I tried blaming you, but she wasn't buying it. Oh well, I will have the planes a lot longer than she will be mad.:D

[Tim Put]

Tim, this wasn't a "hollow grind", but a concavity across the blade such that the center of the edge was not even with the corners. A reverse camber if that makes better sense. I am not sure why or how it was ground that way, but it certainly would not have been functional that way.

Oh, that's much different.
Sorry I doubted you! :cool:

[Derek Cohen]

Hi John

Thanks for that. Good report. There were several items of interest for me. A couple of comments below.

I do think that many of the grits you use when sharpening are unnecessary. I appreciate that you are still finding your way here, and I am unsure whether you are honing the full bevel face or just a secondary bevel?

I would consider anything below 1200 grit to be grinding. For removing a nick in a blade I would use 220 and then stop since at this point and move to a secondary bevel. All you want is a straight, flat primary bevel. For re-sharpening I would use 1200 and 2000. Since I aim for a microbevel, you can skip all other grits.

There is an article on my website about cambering BU plane blades: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/WoodworkTechniques/TheSecretToCamberinBUPlaneBlades.html

I reviewed the Veritas BU Jointer when it first came out (having been involved in pre-production feedback). For the article I compared it with a Stanley #7. I also reviewed the jointer fence and compared that with the Stanley #386.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/The%20Veritas%20Lee%20Valley%20Bevel%20Up%20Jointe r_html_528c4e40.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/The%20Veritas%20Lee%20Valley%20Bevel%20Up%20Jointe r.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[John Keeton]

Derek, thanks for your thoughts, and taking the time to post. I had previously read your review (all of them actually!!) on the jointer, and that was one of the many things that motivated me to go forward with this purchase. Using the jointer at the WIA was the final shove I needed.

On the scary sharp board, I agree with you on the grits. But, when I first started refining my methods, and tools, I needed to establish primary bevels on a lot of my tools - including all of the rust bucket planes that I have been playing with. Until a little over a year ago, I really did not know what "sharp" meant when it came to planes and chisels. What a revelation!!

My grinder is just a regular high speed motor. I use it to carefully establish a square edge on a rough blade, and then use the heavy grits to take the bevel to an edge. Actually, I also use 80 grit occasionally to hasten the process. Some of the old plane blades were a mess.

When I do touch ups, I do as you stated - start with the 1200. At this point, I have ended up with relatively few bench planes. Including the "trilogy", or as Jacob calls it, the "trifecta", I have ony 7. Of those, about half use a cambered blade. I did not do a camber on the jointer, although after using it for a while I may change my mind.

I understand the reasoning behind the microbevel, but rarely use one. Please understand, as you say, I am "finding my way here." As I move on with these planes, I hope to learn much more, and I am sure my methods will change. But, for now, I am having a bunch of fun:D

BTW Jacob, I am glad to serve as your scapegoat, and sounds like Jerry is going to be blaming me for his BU jack purchase, as well.

[Richard Dooling]

Thanks - think :cool:- for the review. I'm definitely having a hard time not ordering the BU jack – it just looks to be so versatile.
Personally I’ve backed away from micro bevels because I don’t have the skill to do freehand maintenance on them but they sure do make fast work of getting a really sharp edge.



.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Richard

I, too, would not consider freehand maintenance on a microbevel for a BU plane blade.

I maintain BU blades with microbevels (which are on the bevel face only, not the back), by stroping the back of the blade. I can do this about 3 times before needing to rehone.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Sam Takeuchi]

Yes I use LV LA Jack for shorter jointing tasks on a shooting board. Wonderful wonderful and wonderful plane.

[Jim Koepke]

Johnn,

I totally agree with your sentiments. Based on your advice I bought the LV BU trifecta, and I love them. They are so easy to adjust, and they really fit my hand well. I am thrilled. When my wife so the cc bill, she wasn't thrilled. I tried blaming you, but she wasn't buying it. Oh well, I will have the planes a lot longer than she will be mad.:D

Yeah, that's the ticket.

John, thanks for getting me off the hook...:D

jim

[Russ Massery]

I met up with John at WIA. He had me try out a Bevel up smoother. No looking back after that. And so before the deal of 15% off and free shipping expired. I order the Bevel up jack which came in yesterday. All I can say is "SWEET"!!!!. Can you say the joy of planing? Sure you can with these.:D I also bought the 50* blade also so with the discount it was a throw in for free. As a side note the blades for all three of the bevel up planes are interchangeable. I haven't bought the jointer yet but plan to as soon as my tool buying budget recovers. And I have only John to blame for that.:rolleyes:

[John Keeton]

Jim, trust me, if it had been a vintage Stanley that Jacob bought, you would have fully carried the blame - and rightfully so :D But, being the friend I am, I thought I would give your tired back a break on this one!

Well, soon as my post hit, I saw Russ laying it on me - again!! Dang, I am starting to feel like Jim Koepke now!

[jerry nazard]

Dang, I am starting to feel like Jim Koepke now!

John: It's a rough job, but someone has to do it!

-Jerry