quick thickness question

[Marc Myer]

I've just received an unexpected commercial order. It's a simple set of acrylic cut & engraved food label tents: 4" wide x 4" tall, folded (heat bent) over to 4" x 2."

This is totally new to me, but a welcome bit of income!

I'll be using Rowmark for this, but not sure what the thickness should be: 1/8" thick, or is 1/16" better? It's going to be at least 500 pcs, so material cost difference is a factor. What would you choose? thanks!

[Dave Johnson29]

I'll be using Rowmark for this, but not sure what the thickness should be: 1/8" thick, or is 1/16" better? It's going to be at least 500 pcs, so material cost difference is a factor. What would you choose? thanks!

Marc,

Is Rowmark Acrylic?

Anyway, I have bent a ton of acrylic over the years and I would suggest the thicker stuff. When you heat it and transfer it to the bending mold the thicker stuff will retain the heat better. The 1/16" stuff will be almost set again by the time you get to try to bend it.

For 1/16" IMHO, you would need an integrated heater and bender specially if you are doing 500+

With the thicker stuff there will be some bend-back when it cools so make the bending mold a little steeper angle than you need if that is important.

[Dan Hintz]

With the thicker stuff there will be some bend-back when it cools so make the bending mold a little steeper angle than you need if that is important.
To further this thought...

Set up a sheet of plywood with some 1x1 strips set apart the same distance as you want the base of the acrylic stands to be... once they come out of the bender, stand them up between the strips and let them cool. No need to worry about increasing the bend and trying to estimate how much it will relax, force it to cool exactly where you want it.

[Rodne Gold]

The thinner , the easier to bend and the quicker the bend cools. Rowmark generally bends very well.
Use the laser to score a line at the bend at the back of the material , ie inside the bend and try use a wire bender - IE a bender that works with a heated wire. If you use a wire bender you get a beautiful sharp crease without any localised distortion.
A jig as dan suggested is a must.

[Scott Shepherd]

For 2" tall, I'd go with the 1/16" as well.

[Mike Null]

Most of this kind of thing I've seen is 1/16".

[Marc Myer]

Great advice, thanks.
I dig the jig idea, and now need to shop for a wire bender! This seems an awful lot like work :)

[Scott Shepherd]

Johnson Plastics catalog. They have several models back near the shears and stuff.

[Bill Cunningham]

If I just have a few to do, I use a 'black sharpie' to make a line on the back where the bend is going to be, then use a tiny pencil flame torch to heat the plastic right along the bend. When it gets soft (only a few seconds), you can fold it over to the angle you need, and hold it for a few seconds, or dip it in water.. But I don't think i would want to do 'hundreds' this way..

[Stephen Beckham]

I've only done it once, but I flipped the romark 1/16 over, off focused and heated the center so the plastic was good and hot and a small amount removed from the laser - then I bent it over a piece of wood to sit and cool. The advantage was the center section was the only part heated and I didn't have any discoloration.

Admittedly - it took three or four before I got the settings down that didn't discolor the front but got it hot enough to bend on it's own. There was no creasing or cracking of the face either.

Works great for a 10 piece order... Just thought I'd offer it up for anyone that doesn't have the bender.

Steve