Question about EZ Smart Guide and Base

[Ian MacDonald]

Hi Folks,

I just received my Eurekazone EZ Smart Guide and Base (drive-by gloat? :p) and have a question about the fit of base on the guide rails. It seems that the Smart Base has a bit of slop in the slot that rides over guide rail. There is about 1/32" of play side to side. Is this normal?

I know a few of you folks have this product so I was curious how your bases fit on the guide rails. If mine's out of tolerance I'll bring up the issue with the folks as Eurekazone but if this is typical I'd like to try to find a way to reduce the slop.

Thanks,

-- Ian

[Steve Clardy]

Mine doesn't have hardly any slope.
I have done a couple of test cuts with it on plywood. Super cuts.
No chip out on either side. Smooth, just like it was sanded.
Steve

[Ian MacDonald]

Thanks for the response Steve.

I guess I'll have to wait to make some test cuts to see if the play will affect the cut quality. I'm hoping that I won't have to clean up all the cuts on my tablesaw which is the reason for purchasing the EZ Smart Guide.

Cheers,

-- Ian

[Ian MacDonald]

I finally got around to making some tests cuts with my new guide. It turns out that the play in the saw base guide slot allowed the cut to drift away from the chip guard unless I kept the saw base tight to one side of the guide rail.

In case anyone else happens onto this problem, here's the fix I came up with: I glued several layers of paper (three in my case) and epoxy mixed with talc to one side of the slot in the saw base. After a little sanding with 300 grit paper I ended up with a perfect fit. The saw base now glides smoothly on the guide rails with no side to side play.

Regards,

-- Ian

[John Miliunas]

I glued several layers of paper (three in my case) and epoxy mixed with talc to one side of the slot in the saw base.

Epoxy mixed with talc? Tell me more, PLEASE! :) Can I assume this makes for a hard, but slick surface? :confused: Any "formula" secrets? Thanks! :cool:

[Steve Clardy]

Ian. Did you contact Dino about your saw guide being loose?
Steve

[Dino Makropoulos]

Ian. Did you contact Dino about your saw guide being loose?
Steve

Hi Steve, J, and Ian. Hello Creakers.
The space between the base and track is by design. When you use a guide rail your cut is always a captive cut.( like the table saw)
I have a problem trying to understand this theory at first but after I lost the
challenge to the designer and the moldmakers (and pay the dinner for five)
i got it. the only time that the blade can drift is when you use the thin steel plywood blades.(even if the play is zero)
The other time that the blade can shift ( I imagine) is if you stop your cut half way, chance hands and cut from the other side. (never happen) the bidirectional design of the guide comes into play here too. Keeps all the cuts for both right and left handed CAPTIVE. Without the bi-directional design I can see the blade drifting to a visible point. Then you need the Zero play that creates other problems.
Talk with epoxy? I like to learn the trick Ian. It will save us a lot of time and money on the machine shop with the prototypes.
Thanks.
YCF Dino

[Paul Berendsohn]

Gee whiz Ian... that sounds like a lot of work, I'd have called Dino first, personally. Mine also has the phenomena you're describing but I can literally split a pencil line with it and routinely rip 8' sections of sheet goods with what I'd estimate to be less than a 64th of an inch of drift.

P.S... Upon rereading my post, I decided to take a second and amplify it. I may have given the wrong impression. My point was that in the field, working on sawhorses oftentimes, I can make a cut and find that the cutline varies from my marks (which may in fact be imprecise) by at most a 64th (in actually, probably less) over 8 feet. That's the worst case I have yet to experience out of 2 SmartGuides (one of which has taken quite a ferocious beating in the back of my truck) and 2 different saws.

[John Miliunas]

Gee whiz Ian... that sounds like a lot of work, I'd have called Dino first, personally. Mine also has the phenomena you're describing but I can literally split a pencil line with it and routinely rip 8' sections of sheet goods with what I'd estimate to be less than a 64th of an inch of drift.

Ditto to what Paul said, BUT, I *STILL* want to know about this "epoxy/talc" concoction you have going! :D :cool:

[Dino Makropoulos]

Gee whiz Ian... that sounds like a lot of work, I'd have called Dino first, personally. Mine also has the phenomena you're describing but I can literally split a pencil line with it and routinely rip 8' sections of sheet goods with what I'd estimate to be less than a 64th of an inch of drift.

Hi Paul.
I talk to Ian last night and explain the captive cut theory.
And it's OK for Ian and anyone else to take this or any other concerns to the open forum. We all learn this way. If we have questions and problems we can find answers and solutions. And this is one of the times that I believe...the more the (merrier) Is the spelling right here?
You see..I learn some spelling and typing on SMC.
YCF Dino

[Ian MacDonald]

Well, I've always been told I don't leave well enough alone...

I actually made my modification before Dino kindly contacted me to tell me that this play is actually by design. I'm still not sure why my test cuts were tight to the chip guard at the start of the cut but about 1/32 away at then end. If I ran the saw over the cut again, the result would be flush with the chip guard. I'll go back and make sure my saw blade is actually parallel with the saw base, perhaps this is the source of force causing the cut to drift.

I must say, being contacted by a vendor before even getting the chance to complain about a problem was a nice surprise. Many thanks to Dino for staying up late looking to my "issue".

Cheers everyone,

-- Ian

[Ian MacDonald]

Ditto to what Paul said, BUT, I *STILL* want to know about this "epoxy/talc" concoction you have going! :D :cool:

Sorry for leaving that out of my last reply. The technique of adding talc (or other fillers) to epoxy actually comes from the boat building arena. I'm not a boat builder, but you pick up tricks wherever you can.

The filler bulks up the epoxy so that it doesn't run, reduces shrinkage and in the case of talc makes sanding the epoxy much easier. Talc is also one of the cheaper additives, since you can find it in just about any store. Make sure you don't get the corn-starch variety (marketed as baby powder) since this is not the same stuff and would probably absorb moisture.

I add talc to my epoxy mixture 'till I get about a toothpaste like consistency. I'm my recent application I also used strips of paper to help build up layers of even and somewhat quantifiable thickness.

It might have sounded like I went to a lot of trouble; but really, it was only about 10-15 minutes work.

Cheers,

-- Ian

[John Miliunas]

Thanks Ian! :) Like you say, pick up info wherever one can and this is a GOOD piece of info! I'll give it a shot next time the appropriate need arises! :) :cool:

[Chris Padilla]

John,

Visit www.raka.com (http://www.raka.com) and read up on all the different kinds of fillers they use to extend epoxy to make it "easier" for particular situations. Their prices are good and the epoxy is great. I'm using it to strengthen up and fill in voids in some pretty spalted maple I have. I bought pine flour and maple flour from them (can you say powdered wood? :) ) to mix in the epoxy for matching purposes. Maple flour will make a chocolate color and pine will make a yellowish/maple color. Go figure, eh? :)

[Alan Tolchinsky]

the Eureka system? I have to buy one anyway so I thought this would be a good time to ask. Sorry if this is seen as hijacking a thread but I don't mean to do that. Thanks Alan

[Steve Clardy]

the Eureka system? I have to buy one anyway so I thought this would be a good time to ask. Sorry if this is seen as hijacking a thread but I don't mean to do that. Thanks Alan
Alan. I am using a PC 447 R.H. framers saw. It has a large base, and was fairly easy to mount the eureka base to it. I did have to remove some of the casting walls for the mounting screws to sit down better. But not a problem removing them if you have a roto zip or some other hand held grinder with a small bit or grinding stone.
Steve

[Alan Tolchinsky]

I checked out that saw on Amazon and it looks like a winner.

[Dan Rolland]

I just received a smart guide and I'm impressed with the construction of it. My smart base also has a little play in it and I guess I still don't understand the explanation of why that is "by design". Seems to me that would allow drift as the saw travels along the guide. Does the "captive cut" idea mean that you need to hold the base against the guide to avoid drift - like you would with a conventional straight edge guide ?

Thanks

[Paul Berendsohn]

Hi Phil...

As I mentioned recently in another thread I have used both a very inexpensive Ryobi and a PC 325 Mag. They both give me phenomenal cuts, but the PC is certainly a better saw and has better DC. If you can afford it, it's well worth the price.
Regards,
Paul

[Dino Makropoulos]

I just received a smart guide and I'm impressed with the construction of it. My smart base also has a little play in it and I guess I still don't understand the explanation of why that is "by design". Seems to me that would allow drift as the saw travels along the guide. Does the "captive cut" idea mean that you need to hold the base against the guide to avoid drift - like you would with a conventional straight edge guide ?

Thanks
Hi Don.
The rotation of the blade ( as the blade cuts, pulls the saw down )
The length of the base (the play is minimized over the entire length)
And the bidirectional design of the guide rail that positions the user on the right side of the guide rail... naturally,
The captive cut idea is that you don't have to try to keep the saw straight because ..all the above reasons do it for you.
Do few test cuts and if you have any problems let us all know.
We have made few zero play bases just in case but so far no need for them.
Only problems. Thanks for posting your ( before the cut) thoughts.
Go and make some saw dust and give us your ( after the cut thoughts)
Just make sure your blade is square and parable to the smart base.
Thanks Don.
YCF Dino