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View Full Version : Delta jointer: new 6 inch vs. old 4 inch



David Milstone
08-27-2009, 8:46 AM
I have a very limited jointer (and overall woodworking) budget. For $50 I can get used either a relatively new 6 inch Delta jointer in good shape or a "vintage" 4 inch Homecraft jointer. The latter is part of a combination 8 inch saw/4 inch jointer with a single motor and stand. The saw is missing the fence, I don't need the saw, and I don't have extra space for unused tools.

An older, solid cast iron Delta 6 inch jointer is available for $250, which may be a good price but is way beyond my budget.

Do the size advantages of the 6 inch outweigh the presumed inferior quality? Some on line reviews praise the newer 6 inch Delta. Others don't.

Thanks.

Dave

Frank Drew
08-27-2009, 9:08 AM
David,

I don't know anything about Homecraft equipment, but why do you feel it's better quality than the Delta, particularly when it comes attached to a saw that you don't want?

Me, I'd try find a way to buy the better, older Delta; I understand budget constraints, but working with mediocre equipment exacts a cost all its own.

David Milstone
08-27-2009, 9:32 AM
David,

I don't know anything about Homecraft equipment, but why do you feel it's better quality than the Delta, particularly when it comes attached to a saw that you don't want?

Me, I'd try find a way to buy the better, older Delta; I understand budget constraints, but working with mediocre equipment exacts a cost all its own.

I wasn't very clear. Homecraft is an old line of Delta, very good quality but not their "professional" grade. The model number of the jointer sold separately is 37-110.

Matt Day
08-27-2009, 10:05 AM
If you have a choice between a 6" jointer and a 4", go with the 6". I'm guessing that's a benchtop style jointer.

I would agree with Frank that you should get the most you can afford as well.

Matthew Hills
08-27-2009, 10:50 AM
A 4" jointer is fine for edge jointing short boards. Challenging to face-joint or work with longer boards, because of the short beds.

A 6" is a bit better, although I still find myself staring at some boards with 8" of usable width and mulling over whether I want to:
- rip, facejoint, reglue
- do the guardless double-wide face joint
- flatten with hand plane enough to get through planer

I usually choose option #3.

What do you have in the way of other tools?
Up until I got a jointer, I used my router table for edge jointing (I didn't have a #7 plane at that time, either).

Matt

scott spencer
08-27-2009, 1:41 PM
If the Delta is a full size cast iron 6", go for the additional capacity. If the Delta is a benchtop and the 4" is stationary, that's a tougher call but 4" is pretty narrow. There are ways around face jointing wider boards, but if they'll fit on the 6", it's simply the most efficient way to flatten a face and an adjacent edge. I'd love an 8" but most of my boards fit on my 6" Griz.

David Milstone
08-27-2009, 1:52 PM
What do you have in the way of other tools?
Up until I got a jointer, I used my router table for edge jointing (I didn't have a #7 plane at that time, either).

Matt

really just starting out:
-Delta 10 inch Contractor saw 34-410
-Delta 9 inch band saw (newer, lighter weight)
-Hitachi 3 HP plunge router
-DeWalt hand held e-drills
-Sawzall (don't ask)
-odd variety of hand tools, including some reasonable but not fancy wood chisels
-working on obtaining used "old iron" dp - lots available just a matter of whether I can put a 15 or 18 inch Buffalo Forge in my garage and still turn around. If not I guess a 12 inch.
-looking at used 24 inch Delta scroll saws
-considering compound miter saw for "carpentry" (rather than "woodworking"). Maybe Delta 36-220. I know it's heavy and not so portable, but they're available at reasonable prices and durable.
-wonder about a real thickness planer
-need to build workbench, ts extensions, router table, dust collection (currently a ShopVac but not such a great solution)

Don Jarvie
08-27-2009, 2:23 PM
Like most have said, bigger is better.

Keep checking the C-list, older craftsman 6 inch stationary jointers show up from time to time under a 100.

Kyle Iwamoto
08-27-2009, 3:34 PM
Why is it that you don't need a table saw? I believe that combo was the combo I had. Or something very similar. The jointer is nothing special, but I can't see why you don't need a table saw. Even if you have to retro a fence/rails, I would think eventually you'll need to invest in a table saw. For that cheap, that saw would be a decent start. Served me for years. So did the jointer.

That being said, try CL for the Rigid 6 inch jointer. You should be able to find one for less than 200 bucks. Pretty good jointer. That jointer is why I got rid of my combo. Happened on teh Rigid 200 buck deal, still in the box...

Just my .02.

David Milstone
08-27-2009, 4:03 PM
If the Delta is a full size cast iron 6", go for the additional capacity. If the Delta is a benchtop and the 4" is stationary, that's a tougher call but 4" is pretty narrow. There are ways around face jointing wider boards, but if they'll fit on the 6", it's simply the most efficient way to flatten a face and an adjacent edge. I'd love an 8" but most of my boards fit on my 6" Griz.

The $250 6 inch is an old cast iron model with cast iron base. The $50 6 inch is a newer lightweight model. The $50 4 inch is an old cast iron model with a standard Delta/Rockwell steel base *with casters*. I'm leaning toward the 4 inch because for the price it will work very well although maybe a bit small for a long time, and I have a use for the mobile base itself if I move the jointer and motor to a smaller shop built stand.

David Milstone
08-27-2009, 4:08 PM
Why is it that you don't need a table saw? I believe that combo was the combo I had. Or something very similar. The jointer is nothing special, but I can't see why you don't need a table saw. Even if you have to retro a fence/rails, I would think eventually you'll need to invest in a table saw. For that cheap, that saw would be a decent start. Served me for years. So did the jointer.

That being said, try CL for the Rigid 6 inch jointer. You should be able to find one for less than 200 bucks. Pretty good jointer. That jointer is why I got rid of my combo. Happened on teh Rigid 200 buck deal, still in the box...

Just my .02.

I didn't feel I needed the ts since I have the 10 inch contractor saw. If I had nothing the combo sounds like a great start. But a dedicated dado blade in the smaller ts might also be convenient. Will a 10 inch blade fit in this smaller saw, being careful not to raise the blade too high? I could always try it and see. But I am also getting pretty far ahead of myself relative to my ww skills and experience. And then there's the issue of not being labeled a tool junkie, divorce (jk, I think), etc.

Pete Bradley
08-27-2009, 4:15 PM
If the 6" is one of those sheet metal or aluminum home cheapos with a screaming universal motor in it, I'd go with the Homecraft 4". $250's a little heavy for the 6", you might try offering $150 (if it's plug and play, if not it's way overpriced).

The Delta steel stand with the casters and the original Delta 1/3 HP motors are both sought after and the presence of either would make the Homecraft a very good deal.

David Milstone
08-30-2009, 12:20 PM
So ... as soon as I committed to buy the combination saw/4 inch jointer for the asking price, the owner decided not to sell.

This has now happened three times since July, all for CL deals discussed on SMC! I'm beginning to think the owners googled their tools, saw the discussions here saying these were good or even great deals, and then withdrew.

OK, I'm being paranoid, and it's certainly unrelated to SMC discussions, but it is a pia to happen so frequently.

I thought the hard part would be finding the offers, not convincing the sellers to actually sell for their ask. I'm still at it though - just paying my dues, I guess. And I did successfully buy a decent Rockwell Model 10 Contractor saw for $150 through CL after discussing on SMC. Probably because this was sold by a real working contractor too busy doing real work to micromanage his offer. He just needed it gone for a decent price cause it was too heavy to lug to job sites anymore.

Stephen Edwards
08-30-2009, 5:47 PM
If I were in your shoes, I'd spring for the $50 6" jointer, even if it's one of the small bench top jointers (assuming that it's in as good condition as you think that it is).

I used one for years until I got my Grizzly jointer. You can do a lot with that little jointer and you can do it NOW. If it works, $50 bucks ain't bad. If it's the benchtop that I'm thinking of there's really no table adjustments to it. However, the beds come off by removing a few bolts that go down through the beds. Mine got out of line and I was able to get it back spot on by using shims and washers of different thicknesses.

My two cents..........

Thomas Stephenson
08-30-2009, 8:03 PM
http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/tls/1350166721.html

Gary Ratajczak
08-31-2009, 8:35 AM
Here is my Vintage Delta 4" Jointer all re-furbished.

I paid $50.00 for it - complete. Stripped all the old paint, and did a complete clean and re-furb. New blades, and off to the shop. It has worked well for a number of projects so far.

Stephen Edwards
08-31-2009, 9:21 AM
Gary,

That's a gloat in my opinion. You did a fine job on the restoration!

David Milstone
08-31-2009, 3:53 PM
So ... what's the difference between Delta and Rockwell 6 inch jointers assuming they are the same model number, something like 37-220. The manuals from owwm.org for this model and these manufacturers look pretty similar if not quite identical. I know they became the same company, but why then retain the different maker names?

I am looking at a Rockwell tonight in good condition for $75 with a "metal" stand (likely not CI but who knows until I view) but a 220V three-phase motor. Since I only have, and plan to have, 100V I know this will require adjustments, like a new/used 110V single-phase motor and switch, but it still seems like a reasonable deal if in good shape as advertised. Might be better than Delta 6 inch, 110V single phase for $250 with "metal" base (but which may be CI), which is the other current option.

What about VFD? Is this a reasonable way to use machinery with 220V three phase motors without running 220V? For $150-200 seems too simple to be true since a single VFD can switch between multiple tools.

Thanks for your help. I promise to post photos and info when I stop ruminating and actually purchase something!