Norms Router Table

[Steve Southwood]

Can someone give the the size of Norms router table? I am wanting to build one, but would like to know how much space it would take up. And while on the subject, does it do everything you think it should? What changes could be done to make it better?

[Roger Jensen]

According to his web site, the dimensions are 46"h x 38"w x 26"d.

There was a thread about mofications to the table a couple of weeks ago.

Roger

[Paul Greathouse]

This may be the thread Roger was speaking of.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=117244

The thread is mostly about a router selection for the Norm Table but there are some other suggestions. One of mine was to use T-Track and Cam clamps for the fence instead of the routed slot and T-bolts in the original design.

[Dick Mahany]

Can someone give the the size of Norms router table? I am wanting to build one, but would like to know how much space it would take up. And while on the subject, does it do everything you think it should? What changes could be done to make it better?

Steve,

I didn't use Norm's plans, but built a copy to my liking from the many clones that people have thoughtfully posted on the web. Mine measures 42H (table surface) x 37W x 25 D and can be seen here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/dmshopshots (http://picasaweb.google.com/dmshopshots)

It has done cathedral arch raised paner doors, lots of edge profiles, custom moudings and more with no problems. I modified the DC system to better suit my shop needs and am very pleased with the performance. Only thing I would change is the choice to have not done this many years ago !

Best of luck,

[Stephen Edwards]

I didn't use Norm's plans, but built a copy to my liking from the many clones that people have thoughtfully posted on the web. Mine measures 42H (table surface) x 37W x 25 D and can be seen here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/dmshopshots (http://picasaweb.google.com/dmshopshots)

Nice table Danny! I'm in the same camp as you: borrowing the features that seem to suit me from many of the shop built tables that I've seen on the web, especially many of the nice tables built by fellow creekers.

Best Wishes on your project Steve

[Dan Phalen]

Built mine from Norm's plan and it goes 36W x 26D x 40H. I'm only 5'9" so the height difference forced me to adjust in the drawers, as shown in my web page (http://www.crestonwood.com/router.htm).

http://www.crestonwood.com/images/routertable-015.jpg

Like Paul, I put T-Track in the top.

http://www.crestonwood.com/images/routertable-019.jpg

[Pete Hay]

This may be the thread Roger was speaking of.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=117244

The thread is mostly about a router selection for the Norm Table but there are some other suggestions. One of mine was to use T-Track and Cam clamps for the fence instead of the routed slot and T-bolts in the original design.

+1 for Paul. I built my Norm Table 5 yrs ago and have used it a lot. It's an excellent design. However, with extensive use, the MDF slots where the tee-bolts ride have gotten buggered up. Paul's idea of using tee-track in these slots is perfect

[glenn bradley]

borrowing the features that seem to suit me from many of the shop built tables that I've seen on the web

You have hit on one of the many reasons to do your own variation. Need more bit storage? Modify the drawers. Got a tight fit? Modify the width. Tight on cash? Get all the materials for free . . . . Oh wait, that last one won't work BUT, the others are all good reasons for custom fitting the general design to your needs. Have fun and take us along for the ride ;)

[William Payer]

I have been using mine for about 5 years and like other, have opted for a taller fence with t-track at two levels. (parallel runs) One addition I will make when I make a new fence (always tinkering) is to split the lower adjustable fence sections into two. With two sections stacked on top of each other, it would allow opening or closing the top section to accomodate the height of the bit, giving a closer "fit" around the bit.
The other change I will make (someday) is to build a much larger version with two router locations and separate fences. I was making raised panel doors (rail and stile) and found switching set ups for rail/stile/panel raising took a lot of extra time. Two router location would streamline the process a lot. Thinking about it, maybe a third router spot would be even better......:D

[Steve Southwood]

Thanks for the replys, lots of good hints too. I hope to do this over the fall, early winter. Got some stuff coming up that is pushing back all my projects.

[Wayne Cannon]

I have a Woodhaven table top and cabinet that is very similar to Norm's. I've been very happy with it. However, over the years, I have made a number of changes that I like better.

-- Pivoting fence. One end of the fence has a pin that can be lowered into a hole in the table. The fence pivots on that pin at one end and has a locking knob on the other end. It's much faster and easier to adjust. See Sommerfeld's table at the link, below, for one example.

-- Deeper table and fence adjuster. A fence adjuster is very convenient for making small and/or calibrated changes in fence position. Most adjusters require more table-top space behind the fence than most standard tables have. The extra table depth is also useful when routing grooves in the middle of wide panels.

-- Support for two routers. Many operations (cope and stick, tongue and groove, etc.) are more convenient with two routers. I've seen tops with two router plates at shows, but just recently replaced my table saw extension table with a Sommerfeld router table. I prefer my primary router table separate from the saw, and will probably switch (move my MDF table to the saw and put the Sommerfeld table on the stand-alone cabinet.

-- While you are at it, look at the cabinet plans for Sommerfeld's router table. At four feet wide, his table is larger than most, so you may need to scale back the dimensions. It's at the following link, starting on page 8 (following the instructions for assembling his aluminum table top):
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/sommerfelds/instructions_and_plans/routertableinstuctions.pdf

[Rob Price]

My rendition: here (http://picasaweb.google.com/rprice54/RouterStation#)

The top is just shy of 36x24. I made mine taller to fit my height.

[Tom Clark FL]

By all means, build your router table to whatever size suits you. Mine top is about 28x36x38" high. The changes I made to my version is mainly the tilting top, and eliminating the large empty hole in the middle, and making it all drawers. Dust collection is from the rear so routing is basically dust free. I have two fences, a shop-made tall one, and an incra-jig.

[Steve Southwood]

Thanks for the ideas, there are many to go over. I might be pushed back even farther now. Will get it done, sooner or later.

[Ed Powers]

FYI, if you are backed up and want to work on other projects there is a commercial source for Norm's table:

http://rt1000.com/index.html

I bought one of these last year for a little under $400 including shipping and I'm very happy with it. I thought about building one, but I don't think you could save much money building it yourself and personally it was one of those things where I'd rather spend the time on other projects.