Advise on Table Saw To Buy

[Lucas Spraggs]

Just getting started and have been told that a table saw should be my first piece to purchase. I looked on the Grizzly web site and found a few in my price range. Need one I can put a base on and roll around would like to stay with a 110v which seem to be the 1 1/2 hp models. I would get a 220v 2hp if they are that much better. Please advise, if there are any others I should check out let me know.

[Stephen Edwards]

Just getting started and have been told that a table saw should be my first piece to purchase. I looked on the Grizzly web site and found a few in my price range. Need one I can put a base on and roll around would like to stay with a 110v which seem to be the 1 1/2 hp models. I would get a 220v 2hp if they are that much better. Please advise, if there are any others I should check out let me know.

You'll get lots of opinions on this question! That being said, you can do a lot of work with a good contractor or hybrid saw. Some 2HP will work on either 110 or 220.

Lots of good deals around now on used TS also.

Whatever you get, get a good one and start making saw dust..........after you learn the basics of safe operation!

Best Wishes

[Dave Wagner]

Most of the saws you can add the mobile base to, they are adjustable. The Shopfox or equal type mobile bases make them easy to move around.

I had found an OLD (60's) vintage craftsman table saw a friend was updating to a Delta. it's built like a tank.A little bit of work and been using for 3+ years now. Keep checking your local Craigslist, or local Yard/Estate/Tag Sales.....

[Lucas Spraggs]

I've used table saws for several years...just not making finished products. Just don't want to buy one and then realize I should have gotten something differenct becasue I was ignorant on what to look for.

[David Christopher]

Lucas, we can be of more help if you will tell your price range

[Matt Meiser]

What is your budget?

You can go two routes. One is to buy something decent knowing you will someday lust after a cabinet saw. The other is to buy the cabinet saw now.

[Lucas Spraggs]

$800 at most but would like $700 or less.

[Prashun Patel]

I'd say look for a used cabinet saw for that price.

I love my hybrid Jet Proshop, but Matt's right. It won't take long until you get saw envy. Best to buy a cab saw and not look back...

[David Christopher]

Lucas, for just a little bit more you can get a saw that you would want to keep forever


http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Table-Saw-3-HP-Single-Phase-220V-Left-Tilt/G1023SL

[Matt Stiegler]

In that price range, you're looking at a new contractor saw or a used cabinet saw. There are tons of very informative threads on table-saw buying advice you can find on this site using the search function. I think the consensus view would probably be that, if you don't need to pull the trigger right away, you should start looking on Craigslist for a used Delta Unisaw or Grizzly 1023 or similar cabinet saw.

[Jim Rimmer]

I just bought a G0661 Grizzly to replace a Craftsman. It's 2 HP and 110V and is a dream to use. This is an old link so I don't know if the sale is still on or not but it's in your price range.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/g0661

[Jason White]

Having had a smaller contractor saw, I'd say get the 3HP 220-volt Grizzly cabinet saw if you're looking for the last saw you'll ever need (notice I didn't say "want"). The G1023SLW is a really great value (has a cast-iron router table built in). I have one and love it. The only pain was running a new 220-volt circuit, but not a big deal. I do all my own electrical so it was short money.

Jason


Just getting started and have been told that a table saw should be my first piece to purchase. I looked on the Grizzly web site and found a few in my price range. Need one I can put a base on and roll around would like to stay with a 110v which seem to be the 1 1/2 hp models. I would get a 220v 2hp if they are that much better. Please advise, if there are any others I should check out let me know.

[scott spencer]

Lucas - Lots of us have gotten good service from a 110v saw, myself included, but before I spent $700-$800 for a new 110v saw, I'd seriously scour the classifieds for a used 3hp cabinet saw, or would save a little more and go for a Grizzly G1023SL for $1075 shipped.

Power aside, the 3hp industrial cabinet saws are simply more robust than the 110v saws.

1023:
http://www.grizzly.com/images/pics/jpeg500/g/g1023sl_det1.jpg

0478 hybrid
http://www.grizzly.com/images/pics/jpeg500/g/g0478_det4.jpg

[Mike Henderson]

If you're going to spend that much, get one with a true riving knife. It's safer and you won't have as much desire to upgrade in the future.

Grizzly got a good one here (http://grizzly.com/products/10-3HP-220V-Cabinet-Table-Saw-with-Long-Rails-Riving-Knife/G0691), $1,300 with free shipping.

Mike

[David Parker]

Whatever saw you decide on, put safety first and make sure it has a riving knife. Sounds like you are looking for something better than my entry level Ridgid R4511, which I love. For its class, I don't think you can do better for $450 (during the annual Ridgid power tool sale). I did have to spend another $120 for a Shark Guard with the low profile riving knife. The Ridgid only comes with a high profile riving knife with non-detachable guard :( . Good luck in your purchase.

Dave

[Dan Ewalt]

My advice, being new to the hobby as well, would be as others have said and look for a used cabinet saw.

There are a lot of good deals out there on Grizzly, Jet, PM, etc. cabinet saws in and below your price range that again as others have said will be all you will ever need.

Don't be afraid of the "used" thing either. You can find some real gems out there that are ready to plug in and use.

And just my opinion again but bite the bullet and put 220 in your shop. In the long run you will be glad you did.

BTW update your profile with your location, I'm sure others can point you to some deals in your area.

My .02 cents.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

My .02 would be to not scrimp on the table saw. Think what you think you'll need then go 1 level higher. The TS is your main shop tool. Be aware a cabinet saw has a hidden cost, being the Dust Collector, which you really should not scrimp on either. The table saw, if you get to it's performance limits, you'll want to upgrade, and buy your next level choice anyway. Don't need a a DC for a contractors saw. Most don't have options for DC.

But then, there's the bunches of us here that live with an 8" contractors saw.... I had one for years. So, in this line of thinking, get the cheapest perfoming saw you can find (not a POJ saw), KNOWING you'll eventually upgrade to the cabinet saw you want (not need).

Just my .02.

[jim hedgpeth]

+1 for the G0661. I have it as well, no regrets, riving knife, 2hp, 110volt, under $800. Fits your description, and with a rivng knife too.

Jim

[Lucas Spraggs]

Whatever saw you decide on, put safety first and make sure it has a riving knife. Sounds like you are looking for something better than my entry level Ridgid R4511, which I love. For its class, I don't think you can do better for $450 (during the annual Ridgid power tool sale). I did have to spend another $120 for a Shark Guard with the low profile riving knife. The Ridgid only comes with a high profile riving knife with non-detachable guard :( . Good luck in your purchase.

Dave
Well here is another piece of info. I will have to roll all of my tools out underneath my carport when I am working. I have no shop so I will store the tools in the basement which has double doors I can open and roll my equipment out under the carport. Should this affect my choice. Also not sure I can afford the dust collection equipment right away.

[jim hedgpeth]

The G0661 has a 2 1/2" connection to the dust hood around the blade, works pretty god with a shop vac. I found it easier to get an extra hose and remove the "tool " end coupling and slide it directly on the saw. Its a tight fit and kind of a pain to get to, so I leave that hose hooked to the saw.

If the area under your carport is concrete a mobile base should be fine. Look for large wheels, they roll better. You can build a mobile base or buy it, just remember to figure for the weight of the saw. Be careful of tipping when you move it. Slow and steady, if a wheel gets stuck (they dont roll well if you hit even a small rock) it will want to tilt if you are moving very fast.:eek:

Any saw with cast wings will be notably heavier than one with stamped wings. I highly recommend the cast, but if weight is a concern......

Think long term, as others have said, dont waste money on a saw you will be irritated with all the time. Get the best saw you can for now, and it may last you longer than you think. I'd love to have a Sawstop, or new Unisaw cabinet saw, but honestly dont think there is much my G0661 can't handle that they would do better. If I upgrade in the future it would be mostly for mental (ego) gain.....Hmmm a custom colored Sawstop.......maybe......pink:eek::D

Jim

[jason lambert]

Is room and movibility a issue? If room is not a issue and you don't need to move it much the used cabnet waw is by far the way to go the heaver the better. These things last forever. If you are going to move it often accross non smooth floors maybe a contractor type saw with a cast iron table.

There are enought used saws out htere from people who upgrade to sawstops, go out of busness or just moving just check craigs list. It may not hurt to take a viset to a real tool store and look at a couple also to see what you like.

A riving knife is pretty important but may be harder to find on used saws.

[Matt Day]

IMHO, don't worry about a riving knife or dust collection. You can make/buy a splitter that will help make the saw safer, and simply plugging a dust collector to the bottom of the saw doesn't help the dust that's flying at your face above the table. I think to get proper dust collection with a TS you need an over the table dust collection system = $$$.

I suggest sticking with craigslist and buying a used cabinet saw. I got a used Bridgport 3HP for $300. It needed to readjust everything and give it a good cleaning, but I'm happy with it for my investment. You might also get lucky and find a much nicer saw in the $700-800 range that's only had hobby use, and the previous owner is upgrading to something like a Sawstop. So keep your eye out on Craigslist and your local for sale paper.

[Jim Rimmer]

Just got a new PW Mag and inside cover is Grizzly ad - G0661 still on sale for $695 ($100 off).

[Steve Sawyer]

IMHO, don't worry about a riving knife or dust collection. You can make/buy a splitter that will help make the saw safer, and simply plugging a dust collector to the bottom of the saw doesn't help the dust that's flying at your face above the table. I think to get proper dust collection with a TS you need an over the table dust collection system = $$$.

I would gently disagree with both points. A splitter is good, but a riving knife better because there is rarely need to remove it from the saw - it don't work if it ain't installed.

Also, dust collection is improved with above-table collection such as can be done with something like a shark guard, but in my experience some saws eject very little sawdust and chips above the table so cabinet-mounted dust collection works well. The dust collection in my Jet Deluxe Xacta works extremely well without the need for over-arm collection.