Mobile Base for Bandsaw

[Michael Heffernan]

I finished fabricating the mobile base for my G0514X2. I didn't like any of the aftermarket bases available, so I made my own. It is extremely sturdy, and increases the footprint for greater stability.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=126286&stc=1&d=1251296253

I used 2x1 x 1/8" wall steel tubing. The left to right bars are drilled with 3/8" holes and mounted to the bottom of the saw base through the base mount holes. There are also four 1/2" holes outside of the base footprint to accept the front to back cross members.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=126288&stc=1&d=1251296266

The front to back cross members are drilled with 1/2" holes and attached above the left/right bars under the base. Be sure to use lock nuts or lock washers to secure the bolts. I placed them above the left/right bars so as not to increase the height of the saw too much once the casters were mounted. Thefront/back tubes are approx. 4-1/2" wider on each end than the footprint of the base, to accommodate the swivel of the caster, as well as to increase the stability of the saw in the feed direction of the wood. The underside of the bar is drilled with a 31/64" (1/2" will do as well) hole only through the bottom of the bar. The caster stem is fed through and the bolt attached inside the tubing.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=126290&stc=1&d=1251296278

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=126289&stc=1&d=1251296266
The casters are from Great Lakes Casters, rated for 220 lbs. each. They hold the saw very stable when the leveling feet are lowered. It is very difficult to screw the engaging wheel to engage the leveling foot. Some sort of spanner wrench would make it easier. For now, I screw the wheels with my fingers and finish by using a screwdriver to take the pressure of the swivel wheels. The saw moves around quite easily on the swivel casters, but you must have a relatively level floor.
Footmaster makes a similar caster, of better quality, with a retractable racheting arm that makes raising and lowering the leveling foot a snap. http://www.greatlakescaster.com/foot_master___leveling_caster___gdr_60s___550_lbs_ __threaded_stem___ergonomic_ratchet-GDR-60S.php?cat=262
Unfortunately they are 60 bucks a piece, out of my budget range. So I settled for the ones made by Great Lakes at $15.50 a piece.

The total material cost was around $95 including the steel, hardware and casters.

[Stephen Edwards]

Very nice mobile base. I like the design. Thanks for sharing.

[Bill Wyko]

I like this. I think I'll order these wheels tomorrow and build this. That's the same bandsaw I have coming in tomorrow. Thanks for the pics.

[Carroll Courtney]

Are you sure,that looks like a factory made base.:DDang Micheal,that looks great.I have always wanted to check those casters and thanks for the report.Again very nice job-----Carroll

[Randy Klein]

Was wondering where you get steel tubing like that?

[Cary Falk]

Was wondering where you get steel tubing like that?

I get mine from a local steel supplier. My local ACE hardware also has a smaller selection at a higher price but they do carry it.

[Bruce Page]

Wow!
That is far nicer than any factory base!

[Michael Heffernan]

Randy,
Got the tubing from a local steel supplier.
Check your yellow pages for 'steel' or 'metal' suppliers. For a few extra dollars, most will cut the stock to length for you; just call ahead.


Was wondering where you get steel tubing like that?

[Al Weber]

Very nice and professionally done. I used the GL casters also and fabricated a 1 1/2" plywood base surrounded by some steel L to increase the footprint of my Rikon 18" BS. The Rikon is tippy so I wanted to a broader base under it. Yours serves the same purpose and maybe makes the pad screws on the casters easier to reach.

[glenn bradley]

Nicely done. So much nicer than the clumsy Shop Fox base I have. I guess its a good thing I have never moved the bandsaw since I got it ;-)

[Mike Cruz]

When is your patent coming in? Gonna start selling 'em?

[Bruno Frontera dela Cruz]

Now that you have used this setup for some time how is it working out? Do you see a need for a third member running down the middle of the machine for support or have you captured enough of the corner to fully support the base?

Thx


I finished fabricating the mobile base for my G0514X2. I didn't like any of the aftermarket bases available, so I made my own. It is extremely sturdy, and increases the footprint for greater stability.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=126286&stc=1&d=1251296253

I used 2x1 x 1/8" wall steel tubing. The left to right bars are drilled with 3/8" holes and mounted to the bottom of the saw base through the base mount holes. There are also four 1/2" holes outside of the base footprint to accept the front to back cross members.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=126288&stc=1&d=1251296266

The front to back cross members are drilled with 1/2" holes and attached above the left/right bars under the base. Be sure to use lock nuts or lock washers to secure the bolts. I placed them above the left/right bars so as not to increase the height of the saw too much once the casters were mounted. Thefront/back tubes are approx. 4-1/2" wider on each end than the footprint of the base, to accommodate the swivel of the caster, as well as to increase the stability of the saw in the feed direction of the wood. The underside of the bar is drilled with a 31/64" (1/2" will do as well) hole only through the bottom of the bar. The caster stem is fed through and the bolt attached inside the tubing.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=126290&stc=1&d=1251296278

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=126289&stc=1&d=1251296266
The casters are from Great Lakes Casters, rated for 220 lbs. each. They hold the saw very stable when the leveling feet are lowered. It is very difficult to screw the engaging wheel to engage the leveling foot. Some sort of spanner wrench would make it easier. For now, I screw the wheels with my fingers and finish by using a screwdriver to take the pressure of the swivel wheels. The saw moves around quite easily on the swivel casters, but you must have a relatively level floor.
Footmaster makes a similar caster, of better quality, with a retractable racheting arm that makes raising and lowering the leveling foot a snap. http://www.greatlakescaster.com/foot_master___leveling_caster___gdr_60s___550_lbs_ __threaded_stem___ergonomic_ratchet-GDR-60S.php?cat=262
Unfortunately they are 60 bucks a piece, out of my budget range. So I settled for the ones made by Great Lakes at $15.50 a piece.

The total material cost was around $95 including the steel, hardware and casters.

[Aaron Berk]

$60 ratcheting casters, awesome.:cool:

Wish I could convince myself to buy em, I know I NEED them.


Great job on the BS base, looks stellar.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, nice job on the base......................Rod.

[Michael Heffernan]

Bruno,
I'm happy with the base as much today as when I built it. There is no need for a center stretcher. No flex in the base at all. As I said in my original post, if you intend to move it around a lot, I would splurge for the GL or Footmaster racheting casters for ease of raising and lowering the feet. My BS is mostly stationary, so the engaging wheels are not an issue.


Now that you have used this setup for some time how is it working out? Do you see a need for a third member running down the middle of the machine for support or have you captured enough of the corner to fully support the base?

Thx

[Prashun Patel]

Funny this thread is being revived. I am building this very base for my saw based on Mikes plan. Really elegant. The trick was finding a cheap supply of rectangular steel tube.

[Bruce Wrenn]

The trick was finding a cheap supply of rectangular steel tube.Last or next to last rip to salvage yard, I lucked up on some 1 X 2, 1/8" wall, rect. tubing in eight foot lengths for two bucks a stick. To say the least, I stocked up. Got all I could carry in my arms, as time was running out.

[Harry Hagan]

Are you sure,that looks like a factory made base.:DDang Micheal,that looks great.I have always wanted to check those casters and thanks for the report.Again very nice job-----Carroll

It looks BETTER than a factory job!

[John Petsche]

Great design. Did you have to place a spacer in the tube to prevent the tube from collapsing under bolt tension at all?

[Dennis McDonaugh]

I have a shop fox under mine and the crappy wheels fell apart after five years. Yours looks like a much better setup.

[Michael W. Clark]

Nice base and the price is right. I need to adapt this concept to a 14" Delta BS and DP.

[Rick Moyer]

I have a shop fox under mine and the crappy wheels fell apart after five years. Yours looks like a much better setup.Me too, Dennis. One of my wheels just recently came apart. Did you find a replacement or what have you done? I haven't done anything with mine yet as I don't roll it very far, but it's very annoying. I have a few of those bases and they're not very good. Won't buy any more!

[Michael Mahan]

I got a used pallet jack , made some custom pallets outta oak
my floor has cracks those tiny wheels don't pass over them at all
all most new pallet jack on C/L $100.oo Oak free left overs
moves the TS , BS , jointer/planer just great even moves my 3" maple top 8' work bench with 4x4" frame

[John Petsche]

Great build, i am planning to make a tablesaw base

[joseph f merz]

can i get bigger wheels ? I have rubber pads on my floor ,I need to cross the joints and climb up on them in places