Finally got my shop back, lets build something!

[Eric Hartunian]

Hi all,
I have been on temporary duty since last December for some Army schools, so my shop has been packed up. We finally made the move to Ft Campbell, Ky, and am about settled in. I don't have to report until mid Sep, so here is a build thread that hopefully will be complete by then.

The project is an armoire for clothing, and is my own design, based on pics and models I've seen. Basically, I took what I liked from several designs, and went from there. A two piece design, one large case with drawers, and another slightly smaller case that will sit on that. Solid mahogany, with poplar as a secondary wood. This will be a hand tool only project, so roll your sleeves up! Comments are always welcome, of course.

Pics to come in the next few posts...
Eric

[Eric Hartunian]

This is a shot of my shop wall, not 100% happy with it, but it will do for now.
THe other pics show some of the starting materials, and the first cuts. This is all rough 4/4 stock. I am using pretty traditional case construction techniques. The cases will be dovetailed together, dados for the drawer runners, etc.

[Eric Hartunian]

Here are some pics of scrub planing, cross cutting, and sharpening the rip saw. This project is physically wearing me out! It was nice to take a break and sharpen the saw. That scrub plane is one I made myself, and is a lifesaver for a job like this. Lots of tearout in this mahogany, though.

[Eric Hartunian]

These are some more shot of prep for the first side panel. Planing the rabbets was more hard work, though it was fun to peal off those thick shavings. I did have to clean all of them up with a shoulder plane. I think my no. 78 needs a tune up.

[Eric Hartunian]

So what did I do to get rid of the tearout? Did I use my infil smoother? No luck. My LN LA jack with steep bevel? No luck. Scraper? Works, but slow. Well, this little stanley no 110, $5 on ebay (cost more for shipping), actually turned this mahogany into a finly polished panel. I couldn't believe it.

Squaring these large panels was really hard. Must learn to do this better right off the saw.

[Eric Hartunian]

This is where I am at right now. So far, I have put in about 3 1/2 days work to get to this point. The dovetails went surprisingly slow. This mahogany is tough stuff! Also, I have never done a project this large before, lots of firsts here for me. Working case sides that are 20" long was hard. Getting the dovetails to line up, and test fit was cumbersome and time consuming. I only have 1 corner done, 3 more to go. More in the next few days.
Thanks for looking...

[John Keeton]

Eric, I am worn out just reading the thread!!:eek: Whewwww!! At least PT will be a breeze for you after these workouts. I was surprised at the failure of the LN LA jack to tame the grain of the mahogany. Would have thought that would have done the trick.

Neat neander project, and the progress pics are appreciated. I know how much extra time and effort that takes.

[Matt Evans]

The project looks good so far. . .

Is that Sapele (African Mahogany)?

I know that I have had a hard time getting Sapele to plane well. The higher angle planes seem to work better in this particular wood. Scrapers work well, but, as mentioned, are slow. The grain is prone to a "pockmark" tear out effect when planing, routing, ripping, or looking at crossways.

[Robert Rozaieski]

Looks like you are off to a great start Eric! Is that the bottom panel in the pic? Looks like poplar glued to mahogany?

I agree with Matt on African mahogany. I used the stuff once to make a couple of tables. It will never come into my shop again. Terrible stuff to plane without tearout due to the heavily interlocked grain and ribbon striping reversing grain. Probably why your little block plane worked so well as the smaller, narrower iron is easier to plane locallized tearout than the longer jack.

[Eric Hartunian]

Yup, it's african mahogany. Yup, never again.
Bob, yes, it is poplar with mahogany glued to it. That is the top (bottom is the same). Remember, the top case will sit completely on the bottom case, so only the sides are visible on the bottom case.

[Robert Rozaieski]

OK, top of bottom case, got it :o. Perfectly logical to me. I'm really interested to follow this. Been awhile since we've had a build thread.

One suggestion that I'm not sure will make a difference or not as I've never used a Japanese saw but you did mention having some difficulty cutting the panel square. It looks to me like you are using a double toothed saw with rip teeth on one side and crosscut teeth on the other (are these called Ryobas)? If so, this may contribute to the difficulty you had making a square cut. Both sets of teeth would be set so by sawing completely through with a double sided saw, the set of the trailing teeth could be affecting the tracking of the saw. Of course I could be talking out my other mouth too as that's about how much I know about Japanese saws :D. Just my wondering thoughts.

[Greg Cole]

Looks good & you're off to a great start.
I'll echo the same sentiment about the mahogany being a PITA to work with planes... but it looks so nice when you're done with it. I have't banned it from the shop, but haven't run out to buy any more either.
I love these build a threads here in the Cave.

[Richard Dooling]

I'm really looking forward to following this thread. Thanks for putting in the effort!

[Roy Wall]

Eric -

This is a great thread to watch -- thanks for the play by play. Nice work...

Yes, it's slow going...but so what if it takes you 3-4 weeks (or 3 - 4 months) ......it will last a lifetime....and more. :)

[Jim Koepke]

One suggestion that I'm not sure will make a difference or not as I've never used a Japanese saw but you did mention having some difficulty cutting the panel square. It looks to me like you are using a double toothed saw with rip teeth on one side and crosscut teeth on the other (are these called Ryobas)? If so, this may contribute to the difficulty you had making a square cut. Both sets of teeth would be set so by sawing completely through with a double sided saw, the set of the trailing teeth could be affecting the tracking of the saw.

My Japanese saws get used a lot on small cuts, but for some reason, they have never tracked well on long cuts. This does not matter whether it is a single sided or double sided saw. For small cuts, they are faster and leave a nicer edge. For bigger things or joinery, it is the westerns and the back saws.

BTW, love the build thread, please keep it coming.

jim

[Eric Hartunian]

I understand about the set on both sides of the saw. Actually, I am primarily a western saw user. You can't tell in that pic, but I am actually cutting about 3/16" or so off the end. For whatever reason, I can't take that kind of cut with my western saws, but the fine kerf on the J saw helps me out. Go figure...

Got the bottom case glued together, minus drawer rails and back. Long way to go, I'll post some more pics latter.

Eric

By the way, this is going to be one heavy piece. What are your thoughts for how I can treat the upper case back panel? It will be visible when the doors are open, so I was thinking frame and panel. I may use thin ply for the panels, though, to keep the weight down. Thoughts?

[Robert Rozaieski]

By the way, this is going to be one heavy piece. What are your thoughts for how I can treat the upper case back panel? It will be visible when the doors are open, so I was thinking frame and panel. I may use thin ply for the panels, though, to keep the weight down. Thoughts?

I would think about thin shipplapped or T&G and beaded boards but that's just me. I'm not a fan of plywood. Nothing wrong with it, just not my taste. I used 1/2" thick beaded T&G solid pine boards for the back of this cabinet, which is all one piece about 7'8" tall. It's not light but the back boards didn't add that much weight (cabinet is solid poplar).

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[John Keeton]

I am with Bob on this one. Thin shiplapped boards are easy to mill (well, for me I would cheat with electrons), easy to handle, and allow for some movement. They are also more correct for your neander piece.

[Eric Hartunian]

Yea, that is what I was thinking. If I did that, I would have to do it with Mahogany, though, right? If I go with a secondary wood, I would have to stain or dye it to match, and that might pose a problem.
I am still working up the courage to resaw all of the drawer side material, let alone the back boards!

[Phillip Pattee]

Eric,
Welcome back to the world. Thanks for the build thread. I'm trying to follow anybody who is building with African Mohagany right now. I have some in the shop I'm planning to use for a jewelry chest. It's a lot smaller project so scraping may be how I get the boards smooth. At least I have a nice stanley 80 to use.

I'm so sorry to hear you aren't 100% happy with your shop, but who is? There isn't enough happiness in the world today. You could pack up all those nice hand tools and send them to me. You would still be less than 100% happy, but I would be positively jubilent!:D And that would increase the total happiness in the world.

[Robert Rozaieski]

Yea, that is what I was thinking. If I did that, I would have to do it with Mahogany, though, right?

No, I don't think so. Based on your description in the OP, the bottom will be all drawers so the back won't show unless you pull the drawers out, right? In a traditional chest of drawers, the back would have been secondary wood. You wouldn't even need to go through the trouble of molding it in any way if it won't be seen. I added the beading since the top of my case was open but in chests of drawers I don't. In fact, I leave the back boards pretty rough looking since they won't be seen. They don't even need to be the same thickness or width, just whatever you have.

You didn't mention any details for the top case so depending on how the top case is going to be fitted out, you may or may not need to do primary wood. If it is also all drawers I'd do secondary wood.

[David Gendron]

I'm with Bob as well as for the back! And BTW, great tread! you don't have to use Mahogany for the back, you could use a nice secondary wood that wood go well with your primery wood, like birch or beech if you like the contrasting effect or DF, cherry for a more redish colore!
Just my 2cents worth!
Ho! How did you start with the wood... did you have to surface the wood by hand, resaw any of it?
Thank you for that thread.

[Eric Hartunian]

Here is what the top will look like...
About an inch narrower and shallower than the bottom, and with two large, frame and panel doors. Then, when the doors are open, you will see what looks like a tic tac toe board. In other words, 9 cubby shelves for folded clothes.

I was planing on a secondary wood for the bottom case back, since that won't be seen. The top back, however, will be seen (at least when there aren't any clothes in it.

David:
All of the wood is worked by hand. I haven't resawn any yet, but I will be soon. That will be aspen, probably, for the drawer sides. I think I am going to avoid resawing the mahogany for the sake of my sanity.

[John Keeton]

Eric, my preference would be a matching wood for the back. But, if you have aspen on hand, personally, I think it may look fine as a contrasting back. It is very neutral in color, and resawing it would be much easier than the sapele. Just my thoughts.

Given your description, I would stay away from a paneled back. I think the divisions with cubby shelves would really fight against the paneled look and be too much. And, it may be that the grain of the sapele would even be a bit much. Give some thought to the aspen.

[Eric Hartunian]

You are right that the grain of the mahogany may be a bit much, and that the frame/ panel will conflict with the cubbies. Never thought of it that way. I was at the shop today looking at wood, and came saw a pallet of aromatic cedar, and am giving serious consideration to that. It is functional, and you will never see it once the clothes are in.
On another note, I had a much easier time with the tear out tonight. I almost feel like it was a different piece of wood I was planing. Strange...

I'll post some pics tomorrow, I've made quite a bit of progress.

Eric

[John Keeton]

Eric, if by "aromatic cedar" you are referring to Eastern red cedar, keep in mind that it is usually full of knots. If you are going to resaw this stuff, and/or handplane it - keep that in mind. While the actual wood is very workable, those knots are a different story. Also, it can "yellow" any white woolens that may be put in the shelves. Just some considerations.

[Eric Hartunian]

Here is an update on where I am at on this project.

The first pic shows the case assembled, sans rails. Next you can see the beginnings of the rails. They are poplar, and the divider is mahogany.

[Eric Hartunian]

This is the progress on the rails.
You can see a close up of the divider installed. This almost much wraps up the lower case. I still need to stick the moulding that will go around the top, and also complete the base, which will essentially look like bracket feet. I've already started on the upper case pieces, and that work is going much faster. Also, I found a nice wide board that has some attractive grain that should make a couple of quality panels for the two doors.

In case the pics don't show, the rails are mortised into the front divider, and the back rail. When I do the final assembly, the mortises in the front will fit tight and get some glue, and the ones in the back will be dry, with room between the shoulder and the rail to allow for expansion. Here in Tn, there is pretty high humidity now, so I am planing on the case shrinking a bit over time.
Thanks for looking,
Eric

[Eric Hartunian]

Here is some of the work I've finished on the upper case. Got the face frame glued on today (not pictured), and the shelves started for the upper case. I just had to take a pic with the whole thing put together.
Thanks,
Eric

[David Gendron]

Looking realy good so far, keep up the good work!

[Robert Rozaieski]

Looks really good Eric! It seems to be coming together at a good pace too. Looking forward to seeing the next update.

[Don Dorn]

Thank you for posting. It is a great project - you apparantly have the patience of Jobe, as the tablesaw would have always been in my perephial vision. It's beautifully done and likewise documented.