Have lathe, now need tools.....

[Paul Coffin]

Hello Everyone,

When Jet was cleaning out their warehouse a few of months ago I purchased JET 1642-2EVS from Tool nut for $1599. I am ashamed to say the only thing I have had time do since it arrived was assemble it and turn it on to make sure it worked! It sure looks like a nice starter lathe:D

I am planning on taking a beginning turning class in Portland, OR but the class requires that I bring my own tools so that they can also teach me to use and sharpen them. It has been 25 years since I last used a lathe in high school shop. I would eventually like to get into bowl and hollow form turning and probably a pen or two along the way.

Can anyone give me suggestions on where to pick up a reasonably priced starter set of chisels or would you suggest just picking up just enough tools to get started but buy higher quality?

Also what would be the easiest sharpening system for a beginner?

Thanks for the help,
Paul

[Scott Conners]

Both the Harbor Freight and the Benjamin's Best (from PSI) beginner sets are pretty decent. They give you the basics. Add a nice Thompson 1/2V bowl gouge and turn a handle as a first project.

I recently bought a few Laguna tools at a demo at their warehouse, and they were really good deals ($18 1/2" bowl gouge), the tools are surprisingly nice. They have nice full size blades (the 1/2" bowl gouge is longer than a Thompson) and nice long handles. I picked up 1/2" and 5/8" bowl gouges, and a 1 1/2" roundnose scraper that is massive.

[Scott Hackler]

My suggestion is to NOT buy a "set". I bought a Sorby set and dont use all of the tools, so I wasted money. Plus the tools I did "need" for what I wanted to turn weren't included in the set so I had to purchase them as well.

If you want to do bowl work: a good quality 1/2 bowl gouge, a parting tool and a scaper will make almost any bowl. There are always extra tools that will make life easier but not a real "have to have".

If you want to do spindle work: a good quality spindle gouge, a skew, and a parting tool. Frankly I think that a bowl gouge could easily to spindle work.

Now as to quality. You already bought a real nice lathe, dont clutter it up with junk tools. Buy Sorby or Crown or the other recommended brands fromn the other members. (keep in mind that Sorby and Crown will cost more, just for the name. I can say that since I own a crap load of them!)

[David Walser]

Paul,

This topic has been debated several times on the Creek, but that's no reason not to discuss it again! Here's my take:

Tools


Inexpensive starter set of High Speed Steel tools. Harbor Freight has a decent set of spindle turning tools that many of us on the Creek started with for less than $50 (on sale and/or with their 20% off coupons). The tools come in two slightly different sets, both branded "Windsor Design". Most agree the dark handled set is a better value than the light handled set, but either will serve. The set comes with everything you might need for basic spindle turning. Over the years, I've upgraded to nicer, more expensive, tools, but I still use my HF tools every time I turn. The steel's decent quality, holds an edge, and the tools feel good in my hand. My only complaint is the finish is rough on the steel. I prefer the 3/8" spindle gouge from HF to my 3/8" name-brand-UK-made spindle gouge. Penn State also has an inexpensive starter set that many like. Here's a link to the HF set: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=35444
Good quality, but inexpensive bowl gouge. You say you want to turn bowls. For that you'll need a bowl gouge. Penn State has several that can be had for little money. My preference is the Artisan brand from Craft Supplies USA. The Artisan tools are made by Henry Taylor (one of the "name" manufacturers in the UK -- not the maker of the 3/8" spindle gouge I discuss above). These tools come with big, beefy, man-sized handles. I started with a 1/2" bowl gouge, but I think I'd start with a 3/8" bowl gouge if I had to do it over again. Here's a link to the Artisan bowl gouges at CSUSA: http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Turning_Tools___Bowl_and_Spindle_Tools___Artisan__ _Artisan_Bowl_Gouge___art_bowl?Args=

Sharpening


Slow speed grinder. Dry grinders come in two basic varieties and sizes. Starting out it's easiest to learn with a slow speed (1750rpm) grinder with 8" wheels. A high speed grinder (3500rpm) with 6" or 8" wheels works, but it's harder to learn with. Most agree that the 8" slow speed grinder from Woodcraft is a good value, particularly when it's on sale (which seems to be every other month). For the grinder you'll want good quality wheels -- throw away the standard gray wheels. Here's a link to the Woodcraft grinder (which comes with decent A/O wheels):http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2004605/19002/8-Slow-Speed-Grinder.aspx
(http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2004605/19002/8-Slow-Speed-Grinder.aspx)
Tru-Grind Sharpening System. There are a lot of sharpening jigs available to woodturners. The Oneway Wolverine system is the one most people seem to have. I have a preference for Woodcut's Tru-Grind Sharpening system. The Tru-Grind takes up less space (plus in a small shop) and the system is bit more refined than the Wolverine in design, but either will work. So will the other jigs that are available. (Note: Tormek just released it's dry grinder adapter that makes it's woodturning jigs available for use with a dry grinder. I think the Tormek jigs are superior to the Tru-Grind or Wolverine, but they are a lot more money.) Here's a link to the Tru-Grind Sharpening System: http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Sharpening___Woodcut_System___Tru_Grind_Sharpening _System___tru_grind_system?Args=

Comments

I started out by saying this has been debated before. Allow me to try and do justice to the other side, which is to only buy the best quality tools -- one at a time, as you need them. There is a lot of merit to this argument. If you don't do a lot of spindle turning, you may not need or even want all the tools that come in a "starter set" of tools. A quality tool may last longer than an inferior tool. Etc.

Here's my counter to those arguments. First, when a single "quality" gouge costs more than the entire starter set from Harbor Freight, it's hard to say you've wasted money if you never use the "spear point scraper". Turning often requires creating a special tool for a specific task. Those "extra" tools that come with your starter set can easily be reground for that purpose. From that perspective, starter sets (such as those from HF or Penn State) are not a waste of money. (A Robert Sorby or Crown starter set, which might cost more than $300, is another story.)

Second, until you've turned for a while, how are you supposed to know which style of gouge "fits" you? I have Hamlet, Henry Taylor, and Crown branded tools. All are high quality, but each feels differently in my hand. I prefer the Henry Taylor bowl gouges to the Hamlet, for example. (The handle on the HT bowl gouges are 3 or 4 inches longer than the handle on the Hamlet. The Hamlet has a deeper, V shaped flute -- which I like.) My point is, when you're first learning to turn it's hard to know which "quality tool" to buy.

Third, you have to learn to sharpen. For most of us -- even with a jig -- that process is more difficult than learning how to turn. If you've spent a lot of money on a tool, are you really going to be willing to grind, re-grind and re-grind again, until you get it right? For most of us, it's easier to "waste away" a tool at the grinder when the tools part of a $50 set of eight tools than when you spent $50 on a single tool. So, I say consider your "cheap first set" of tools as part of your learning how to sharpen tuition. After you've learned how to grind, you'll also have a better idea what style of quality tool you'll want to spend your money on.

At least, that's my 2 cents.

[Craig Powers]

There is no doubt you'll get lots of recs for Thompson tools. However, I would also recommend buying the Benjamin Best tools to start, especially the bowl gouge set. You'll get 3/8, 1/2, and 5/8 for around the price of 1 1/2 inch Thompson. I am by no means suggesting they are comparable. But learn to sharpen the cheap steel. Keep in mind as you experiment with different grinds, that there are different flute shapes that influence the grind. BTW, I wouldn't only get the BB gouges.....edge doesn't last nearly as long.
You might try some other BB tools, such as the parting tool, scraper, etc.
Once you eventually find other brands with better steel that you like, you can always convert the BB scrapers or parting tools to other "specialty tools".
I'd look into the wolverine sharpening jigs also.
It starts to add up quickly. Like one guy said,"As much as you spend on tools, they should give you the lathe."
Good luck.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I would also reccomend a HF or BB starter set. Reason for me is it's CHEAP and pretty darn good. Also, they are great when you're turning near the head or tailstock. I would not want to risk a "real" tool hitting metal.:eek: I've taken out chips from my spur and chuck..... I still use mine. But then I only have 1 decent Sorby bowl gouge.

Which does bring up the other end of discussion, on Sorby tools. Yes they are expensive, and yes the Thompsons are probably better, (I don't own any yet) but they can be bought from your local candy store, where you can touch them and play with them.....

[Dan Forman]

I started with the dark handled Harbor Freight set, used them to turn handles for my Thompson bowl and spindle gouges. The Thompson tools are true bargains, only come unhandled, and will cost significantly less than similar quality, or even lesser quality but more commonly available tools in the retail stores or catalogs.

Dan

[Bill Blasic]

You already have a very good lathe and my suggestion is that you buy the best to begin with. Start with a Thompson 1/2 V bowl gouge, add the 3/8 V bowl gouge and then a 3/8 spindle gouge. With those three tools you will be able to do 90% of anything you will want to do in turning. You will want to have a sharpening system and I recommend the Wolverine System with the Varigrind jig from Oneway. Set it up like pictured on Doug's website and don't look back, the grind that that set up will produce will take you far down your turning road. As important as anything above is to find a club in your area and join it, the resources of a club will go a long way in removing any turning obstacles you meet. Just my 2 cents but I hope it will help.
Bill

[ROY DICK]

Craig,
If it is a place like woodcraft they will give you a 10% discount, while you are taking the class. Either way call and ask for a discount.
A skew, bowl gouge, and a spindle gouge.
As said before harbor freight will get you started, then hold on to your money. It will fly away. lol
You already have been given greta advise on a sharpening system.
If you are close to the Dallas area send me a pm.

Roy

[ROY DICK]

Paul, Sorry about the Dallas area thing. My bad.
And to Craig too.
Can i use "It's Early?"

Roy :o

[Paul Coffin]

Thanks everyone for the advice, I am going to try and figure out what I am going to buy this weekend.......

Thanks again,
Paul

[Thom Sturgill]

Paul, I want to +1 on David's comments. I think he is right on. I bought the HF set with the European gouges and use them just about every time I turn even though I have quite a few Sorbys and other pricey tools. Several that I rarely used have been re-ground into new shapes - for example a flat ended scraper is now a dovetail scraper for my dovetail chuck jaws.

The next point is - join a club, take a class and learn how to use the tools. Several class members brought in tools and let others try them out, so I was able to see various grinds and gouges at work and decide what I wanted to spend money on.

I still *need* a few tools, a bigger roughing gouge for example, and want to try one of Doug's gouges, just not sure which one first.

[Skip Spaulding]

I have to go with BB or HF to start, learn to sharpen and which tools you use the most and then ask Santa (if you believe) for the more expensive specific tools. I think you will find they all come in handy. Good Luck

[Steve Schlumpf]

Looking forward to seeing what you learn to turn in class! Have fun with it!

[Matt Haus]

I also started with the harbor frieght set and now use them in other ways. I've ground down several to be scrapers. It's a cheap set and your only out 40 bucks or so. I also practiced on pine from home depot. It cuts easy and you can practice different techniques. It would be worth your time to puchase some DVDs. Richard Raffian comes to mind.

Good luck and wear full face shield at all times. I took a few hits to the head the first time. (small pieces on the mini lathe)

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Good luck and wear full face shield at all times. I took a few hits to the head the first time. (small pieces on the mini lathe)

I took a hit from my scraper handle in the face shield. Couple bowl blow ups. It's a good idea. Get a respirator too. Breathing dust is not good for you either.