Dust Collector Blast Gate Question

[Clint Schlosser]

I just purchased a 2HP dust collector from Grizzly. In addition to the main unit I also purchased the hose, gates, splitters, clamps, and other miscellany. My problem is the blast gates specifically.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/4-Plastic-Blast-Gate/G1843

These gates are tapered and very very slick. If you attempt to clamp it that just squeezes the hose off. How are you supposed to use these gates if you can not attach hose to it that will stay?

[Jason Beam]

All the plastic gates i ever used had that problem (jet, shop fox, penn state, etc) - they're all the same ... the only solution I found was to pick up a bunch of 1/4" #4 button head screws and put two of 'em into that tapered bit then wrap the hose around that and clamp it - the heads act as a stop to keep things from sliding off.

They're tapered to accept the quick release fittings, like this:

http://thejapanwoodworker.com/assets/images/product/JapanWoodworker/thumbs/99.103.8.jpg

[Clint Schlosser]

Man I feel a little dumb now. I guess that makes sense. i can screw them in, then use the clamps to "seal the deal" I was thinking too hard on this one!

[Bill Blackburn]

:D

been there and done that - seems you stole my exact words. ;)
Peeves me to no end tho that everything needs something else added to make it work right. It is what it is but ..... extras needed put in on a label or box or .... save me a seperate trip for the silly little things I might not have.

[Steve Kohn]

Before you install them I would suggest another modification. Open the blast gate and take them to a convenient fine toothed saw. I use my miter saw with an 80 tooth blade. Cut the back corners off the gate after backing the gate up with something like a piece of scrap 2/4. This will allow the gate to clean itself out when you close them.

If you don't do something like this then you will be pulling them out in very short order.

[Jason Beam]

Steve's right on ... i replaced all but one of my plastic blast gates with self-cleaning aluminum ones after they quit closing completely. It's a real bear to dig into those corners with a thin bit of coat hanger, for sure. Lopping off the corners can really help a lot - though the first one I tried to do that to split the "glue" line and the thing came apart on me - no amount of super glue held it so i gave up and bought the more expensive aluminum self-cleaners.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Before you install them I would suggest another modification. Open the blast gate and take them to a convenient fine toothed saw. I use my miter saw with an 80 tooth blade. Cut the back corners off the gate after backing the gate up with something like a piece of scrap 2/4. This will allow the gate to clean itself out when you close them.

If you don't do something like this then you will be pulling them out in very short order.

Another option is to drill halfway through each of the lower corners with a 1/2" forstener or spade bit, opposed to lopping of the entire corner.

[Clint Schlosser]

I am not sure if I understand what you mean by cutting the back corners off? Is there a site/picture of what you are talking about?

[Steve Kohn]

Sorry but I don't have a picture to reference you back to. I am referencing the corners of the blast gate that are opposite the slide that opens/closes the gate.

What ends up happening in use is that sawdust gets pushed into these corners when you close the gate. It doesn't take much build up of dust to keep the gate from seating or closing all the way. This leads to leaking gates when they are supposed to be closed. By clipping off these corners the slide of the blast gate is allowed to push the dust out of the gate; ergo a self-cleaning gate.

If you do happen to break the glue (actually a sonic weld on my gates) just use self-tapping screws or screws and nuts to hold the gate together. This works fine.

[Clay Crocker]

You don't have to cut the corners completely off. Just remove the portion where the corners of the gate seat and they will never get plugged again.

Clay