Turning Pens...

[Wally Dickerman]

Some of you may recall that a few weeks ago I posted that I was looking for something new to turn so after all these years I turned my first kit pens. I am traveling in the NW and have given most of them away to friends.

I've decided that when I get home next month I'm going to turn a few more. So where do y'all (I moved from the NW to Arizona...does that make me a southerner?) buy your pen kits? Do you buy the cheapest kits or do you buy the pricey ones? Those of you that sell pens...what models are your best sellers?

I have a lot of highly figured and some exotic wood in the form of lumber and a lot of scraps of burl etc. so wood isn't a problem.

Thanks,

Wally

[Jim McFarland]

I buy cheap slimlines and some of the pricier kits:

Chrome slimlines from Wood'N'Whimsies
Barons from Lee Valley & Arizona Silhouette (capped rollerballs & fountain pens) -- I get just the fountain pen nibs & pumps for these from Arizona Silhouette -- let's me convert rollerball to fountain for ~$9
Jr Gent II and Jr Statesman II from Craft Supplies
2 tone Sierra twists from Lee Valley (platinum/black titanium & titanium gold/black titanium)
2 tone Sierra button clicks from Bear Tooth Woods
Also get the chrome Sierra twists & button clicks from Lee Valley
I make them mostly for friends & family -- sold a few but not enough to offer an opnion on what's hot!
FYI, here's group shot with each I mentioned L-R in order mentioned...

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg62/zjem02/IAP%20Photos/IMG_6251.jpg

[Scott Hackler]

Im new to pen turning but have turned probally 25. I am and have only turned the European pen from WoodCraft. The gold kit runs about $4.50 to $5.00. The satin nickel is a little cheaper.

It makes a real nice pen and except for getting the tenon technique correct it is pretty easy to turn and assemble. I have looked at other kits and other suppliers but havent pulled the trigger yet.

[Mark Hix]

I have sold a few. You have to think of the plating in terms of your reputation. The cheaper platings will wear off very fast. It is worth the few extra bucks per kit so you can get repeat business. My best customer has purchased 5 pens so far. Best sellers will depend on your market. What sells good for me may not sell good for you. I am starting to do more fountain pens than before.

I make alot of Baron's and Sedona's and usually get them from Ariz. Sil. The Sierra has been a good seller along with the comfort grip. I try to pick a kit that shows off the material best.

[Chris Stolicky]

I have turned somewhere around 125 pens now. While many have been given away, are sitting here waiting to be sold, or are part of my collection, I have been able to try many different kits.

My experience: I can say that when I have tried to sell my pens, its the slimlines that sell the best. Mostly female customers, and usually a brighter color. Corian does well. If you are looking to sell, more often than not, people are concerned about style and color - not the uniqueness or difficulty in turning of the material; its kind of unfortunate for those of us who truly appreciate making pens - especially nice pens.

As far as plating, I avoid any gold plating unless its the only choice for a kit or if its requested. The gold plating just does not hold up as well. If I have to get gold, I opt for the best gold plating available. I typically lean towards the chrome, rhodium, and black titanium platings. I also make slims in white pearl and gun metal.

I typically purchase basic slimlines from Wood'N'Whimsies. WoodTurningz is also a good source for slimlines.

I have made many Barons and Sedonas from Arizona Silhouette, including closed-ended pens. Bill has a lot of good stuff - including stabilized blanks. He is also in Arizona (I guess the name gives that away, huh?).

I have lately been favoring the Jr. Statesman and Jr. Retros - more pricey though. Craftsupplies.

Again, I avoid the gold plating. However, just recently, I decided to make a pen as a wedding sign-in pen. It was requested that I make it out of a gold Jr. Gent. So, gold it is - I just hope it lasts. I plan to post it once its complete. Its pure white, but will be ebgraved and finished with gold filler.

I know this has been long, I apologize. My advice - becareful of the platings, everyone likes something different, and learn your market if you intend to sell. Good luck.

[John Terefenko]

Titanium gold is the gold plating you want. Cost abit more but worth it.

You mentioned alot of fine figured woods and burls. These will undoubtly make very nice pens. It is an art to try to pick the right kit for the right woods. But most importantly I highly recomend you practice on a finish that will stand the test of time and use. The best or at least one of the best is a CA finish. Then you can get into the poly and lacquer finishes and there are different methods of apply each of these finishes but you should learn a few of them.

You gott alot of good advice so far so hope to see some of your work. Have a great day.

[Jason Solodow]

I have turned about 50 pens so far, and will probably turn another 200 or so in the next month. I buy my kits from Woodturningz because his are the cheapest and I live close to him so it's not a big deal for me to run to his shop and pick them up. I pay $1.70 for the gold plated kits. I like the T/N Gold kits, but they are more pricey, so it depends on the customer. As far as what sells well, I did my first craft show this past weekend and was pleasantly surprised. The Slimline pens definitely sold the best, and the ones made from acrylic were the most popular. I had one lady buy 5 pens from me and ordered an additional 10.

In addition to the Slimlines, I will also frequently use the Comfort Pens, the Trimlines, Slimline Pro, and Polaris kits. The Polaris is very popular because it is a little heavier pen, and people really love the Parker style refill.

Finish wise I was using BLO with Medium CA glue applied on the lathe, then dried and buffed with White Diamond and Carnuba wax. This seems to hold up well to daily use. I just picked up a sampler kit of the Mylands 3 step finish and I will try that this weekend, but instead of finishing up with Carnuba, I'll finish with Ren Wax.

I resisted doing pens for awhile, just because I wasn't interested in them. I'm really still not, but they are very very popular with people. At a show, I'll take an absolutely stunning bowl or vessel with me to catch peoples eyes, then they end up buying pens instead. Anyway, just my $0.02

[Bernie Weishapl]

I get most of my kits from Bill at Arizona Silhouette. My best sellers are Sierra twist and click pens. They sell about 3 to 1 to the others.

[Cody Colston]

Wally,

Not to discount the info available here, but you might also visit the International Association of Penturners (IAP) forum and check out their "Marketing and Shows" sub-forum.

Those guys over there craft and sell pens for a living. You can find pretty much anything and everything related to pen turning and marketing.

[John Terefenko]

I have turned about 50 pens so far, and will probably turn another 200 or so in the next month. I buy my kits from Woodturningz because his are the cheapest and I live close to him so it's not a big deal for me to run to his shop and pick them up. I pay $1.70 for the gold plated kits. I like the T/N Gold kits, but they are more pricey, so it depends on the customer. As far as what sells well, I did my first craft show this past weekend and was pleasantly surprised. The Slimline pens definitely sold the best, and the ones made from acrylic were the most popular. I had one lady buy 5 pens from me and ordered an additional 10.

In addition to the Slimlines, I will also frequently use the Comfort Pens, the Trimlines, Slimline Pro, and Polaris kits. The Polaris is very popular because it is a little heavier pen, and people really love the Parker style refill.

Finish wise I was using BLO with Medium CA glue applied on the lathe, then dried and buffed with White Diamond and Carnuba wax. This seems to hold up well to daily use. I just picked up a sampler kit of the Mylands 3 step finish and I will try that this weekend, but instead of finishing up with Carnuba, I'll finish with Ren Wax.

I resisted doing pens for awhile, just because I wasn't interested in them. I'm really still not, but they are very very popular with people. At a show, I'll take an absolutely stunning bowl or vessel with me to catch peoples eyes, then they end up buying pens instead. Anyway, just my $0.02


Jason

I would rethink the Mylands. It will not hold up to any kind of everyday use. Then the wood will become dingy looking and that could be bad for business. You want to build your business on a good reputation. That finish will give a nice look right off the lathe but will not hold up. Don't want to be negative but just a heads up. Good luck with your sales and kepp that lathe turning.

[Wally Dickerman]

Some good information here. Most say don't use cheap gold plating. Don't use friction polish. Seems to be a wide variety of kits used with the Slimlines leading.

Wally

[Dan Forman]

A nicely figured blank is sort of a waste on a Slimline, most of the good stuff gets turned off. Save the good stuff for fatter pens, Sierras on up. The Perfect Fit is a nice kit that comes with both pen and pencil mechanisms, and is not too skinny. The Churchill is a nice fat rollerball or fountain pen that will make the most of a nicely figured blank. There are some really nice acrylic blanks out there too. I get my kits from either Craft Supplies or Arizona Silhouette. I don't use any real gold plate, only the various titanium, platinum, or rhodium.



Dan