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View Full Version : Squaring RS 4/4 with out a jointer



Drew Pavlak
08-19-2009, 3:02 PM
Hello,

I haven't posted in a while, but I thought I would put something out here to try to ease my mind a little. I have several projects that I am looking at building starting small and eventually getting bigger as I go. I am just getting into the finer woodworking or would like to, and over the past couple of years I have collected what I would consider a few tools. My major concern right now is I recently purchased 250 bf 4/4 Michigan Cherry and probably another 50 bf 4/4 of Black Walnut for about $325.

It was the best price I could find and I have plenty of lumber now to complete some or most of the projects I would like to do. My major concern is that I don't have a jointer or any hand planes. I do have a fairly nice planer (Delta DC-380 15" Planer) though. I have been reading and I saw the Jig that Fine Woodworking had for using your planer as a jointer, my concern is, is this really going to work for 4/4, or should I just bite the bullet and buy a jointer? I should mention that I have been trying to gather these tools as cheaply as possible (Radial arm saw - Free, Table Saw - $50, Planer - Free, Band Saw - Free, Dewalt Router - $250). I could spend some money on a jointer and the Wife probably won't kick me to the curb, but is it feasible to get good results using the jig from FWW?

My main concern right now is getting the lumber square and not being left with a piece a 1/4" thick. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Drew

glenn bradley
08-19-2009, 3:06 PM
Speaking from many failed attempts and wasted stock I can confidently tell you that your best solution is a planer sled. I'll built mine Saturday and used it Sunday. I continued to use it for over a year till I bought a jointer. I still have it and it will come in handy when I have to joint something wider than 8".

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=58735

Dave Wagner
08-19-2009, 3:07 PM
Maybe someone that lives close to you on the forums may have one that you could get the edges done....?? I have donated my time/machines to a few friends when needed for small projects. :)

Drew Pavlak
08-19-2009, 3:51 PM
I thought trying to take it to someone that had a jointer, I actually work with someone that owns one and has offered to let me use it. The problem I see is time. As with everyone time for woodworking is a premium, (Two kids 5-1/2 and 2-1/2, Wife, dog, family, work,.....). I would like to have the flexibility to go to my garage and use what I have, if I get pulled away, then I am not at someone else's house and have to leave abruptly.

Also, once you start squaring joint face and 1 edge, there is the possibility that the the board is going to warp, twist, cup or what ever if it sits for too long due to humidity and that sort of thing. At least this is what I have read. If that were to happen then I would need to re-joint the edge or face as needed.

I think I would also like to have the feeling that I did this on my own. To say hey I built that. I think that's one reason we start woodworking, for the sense of accomplishment.

Then again some of us might be doing it because we don't want to pay huge prices for furniture that is made from recycled pop bottles and chip board.;)

Drew

Prashun Patel
08-19-2009, 4:07 PM
I am in the same boat as you: I have 2 small kids that I 'steal' time from to complete projects.

That's why I bought a jointer. It's really wonderful. The RIGID 6" is a pretty good machine for not too much $$, and you can probably get 10% off if you wait for a coupon. HD also has power tool sales once or so a year and you might be able to get it really cheap then.

My jointer has paid for itself by saving me a lot of time and effort. The 1st time you square stock on it, you'll realize what all the fuss is about.

Drew Pavlak
08-20-2009, 9:37 AM
This post might be a moot point. Saw a craigslist add, a guy near me is selling all is equipment because he is moving. He had a Jet JJ-6CSX Jointer for sale for $350, also included are 2 other sets of knives. I have contacted him and I am going down on Friday to look/pick it up. I should also mention that this thing looks brand new. Said it was 5 years old and he hadn't used it in 2 years. No rust or dings that I can see from the pictures he sent. So hopefully this is a good deal.

I still plan to build the planer sled, but I really think this is the route I wanted to go anyway. Maybe I' just a tool nut! :D

Thanks for all you input.

Drew

john bateman
08-20-2009, 12:57 PM
Radial arm saw - Free, Table Saw - $50, Planer - Free, Band Saw - FreeI think you should go back to the guy who gave you all those other free tools and get a free jointer from him.:)

harry strasil
08-20-2009, 5:40 PM
I have a 6 inch jointer, but when I jointed the edges of 1 3/4 inch thick pin oak planks 5 ft long for my work bench I used a straight edge and a pattern bit in my router, then turned it over and used an edging bit with a bottom bearing to finish it, when I glued it up it come out nice and even.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/nu%20bench/routeredging02.jpg

Jerome Hanby
08-21-2009, 8:32 AM
I have a 6 inch jointer, but when I jointed the edges of 1 3/4 inch thick pin oak planks 5 ft long for my work bench I used a straight edge and a pattern bit in my router, then turned it over and used an edging bit with a bottom bearing to finish it, when I glued it up it come out nice and even.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/nu%20bench/routeredging02.jpg

You know, along the same lines, if you have a router table and put together something to use for shims on one side of the fence, you can edge joint boards (at least boards that aren't thicker than your bit's cutting surface).

Dan Gill
08-21-2009, 9:03 AM
I worked without a jointer for several years. I normally bought S2S wood, but I had some I had to plane on a planer sled and rip using a sled I made for tapering.

John Schreiber
08-21-2009, 2:59 PM
I can come pretty close to flat on one side with a #7 hand plane, then I run it through the planer. I've also tried using a sled, but I couldn't get it to work.

Drew Pavlak
09-02-2009, 7:16 AM
Well I haven't posted in a few days, but the guy sold the Jointer before I could get down there to look at it. Oh well. Another day another deal. :D There is another guy with an older Jet (blue one) that looks like it is in pretty good shape, little surface rust, and might need new blades, that I will probably will go take a look at.

Anyone have any experience with the older model Jet machines? I think this one was made in 1997. The only thing that I would be really concerned with would be if there are parts available for it. The model numbers don't appear to have changed. I know I can get blades, but what about bearings and that sort of thing. Also thought I read somewhere that the motor was smaller, 3/4 hp instead of 1 hp. Can anyone confirm? And if so can it be replaced with a larger motor if this one wears out or seems under powered?

Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Drew

Matt Day
09-02-2009, 7:47 AM
If you have 300bdft of lumber, I'd say bite the bullet and get a jointer. You'll save yourself time, hassle, and frustration which will make it well worth it.

What is the average width of the boards? You should be able to find a used 8" jointer for around $600-$800. Heck I got mine brand new for less than $800 shipped a couple years ago. Or you can usually find a 6" jointer for a song if you keep checking your local want ads and craigslist.

Rod Sheridan
09-02-2009, 8:11 AM
Drew, 3/4 HP is fine for a 6 inch jointer.

Bearings for the Chaiwanese machines are standard off the shelf items available at any bearing supply company.

The same is true for belts, pulleys, and blades.

Unless the castings are broken or damaged, it's hard to imagine anything that couldn't be repaired or replaced.

You're going to love having a jointer, you said time was at a premium, so this will save you an enormous amount of valuable time over any of the "work around" solutions to not owning a jointer.

Regards, Rod.

Michael Peet
09-02-2009, 8:30 AM
I have a 6 inch jointer, but when I jointed the edges of 1 3/4 inch thick pin oak planks 5 ft long for my work bench I used a straight edge and a pattern bit in my router, then turned it over and used an edging bit with a bottom bearing to finish it, when I glued it up it come out nice and even.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/nu%20bench/routeredging02.jpg

Thanks for the pic Harry, I like that idea. One question: doesn't this method require that the top face (the face the router rides on) be flat? In other words, if there is a twist to the board, won't you just be transferring that twist with the router to the jointed edge?

Drew Pavlak
09-02-2009, 9:22 AM
Matt,

I would love a 8" jointer, my garage and pocket book wouldn't. Right now I can't justify an 8" jointer. I don't do enough woodworking to say I need one. Space requirement are also an issue at this time.

Hopefully in a few years (Like 10) I might be able to afford one and also have the space for one.

Thanks for the input though.

Drew.

Vince Shriver
09-02-2009, 1:13 PM
For the surface, a planner bed as mentioned. For the edges, I use the factory edge of a piece of sheet goods (ply, melamine, mdf...), and clamp it to the work piece. Then using either a pattern bit or a trim bit or a straight bit with the subase riding against the factory edge, I router two edges to match the template. A circular saw would also do the trick, using the factory edge as a saw guide. Once one corner is square, the rest can be accomplished on the table saw. Make sure you put a square on the factory edge before you do this, tho. Easy as pie.

Josiah Bartlett
09-02-2009, 1:13 PM
I use my old light duty Delta shaper for jointing thin stock quite a bit. The split fence makes it easy. I've found I can handle up to 8/4 stock no problem with a 1/2" spindle and 3/4 horse motor. I use the table saw for rough squaring and then finish up to thickness with the planer. You could definitely do the same thing with a router table and a shimmed or split fence.

If you are squaring up for turning stock you could just use the table saw and a special jig. If you make a table saw sled with spindle centers and a way to index at 90 degrees, you can just use the saw blade to automatically square the stock up exactly to the spindle centers and not worry about it.

Drew Pavlak
09-03-2009, 12:42 PM
Well I did it. Drove 2 hours to Flint to pick up an older Jet JJ-6CSX (one of the blue ones). I think it is in really good condition. It has a little surface rust, but that will clean up and probably needs some new blades, but other than that it really looks like it was hardly used.:D

So going to clean it up this weekend and see what happens from there.

I got some pics, but I need to resize them to post. Will try to do that later.

Drew.

Drew Pavlak
09-03-2009, 1:05 PM
Here are the Pics.

Drew

Matt Day
09-03-2009, 1:18 PM
Nice work Drew!

A little work and it will be good as new! Do some searching here on SMC for suggestions on how to clean up that rust.

I think you'll be very happy you chose to get a jointer - a nice 6" one too!