footprint of contractor vs unisaw

[David Milstone]

I can get a 9 year old unisaw (5 hp, 3 phase, 200 volt motor) in good shape (needs only new cord and plug) with 52 inch Beismeyer fence for $400, but not sure it will fit in my 2 car garage workspace. This space currently easily houses my Rockwell contractor saw with original fence. What is the footprint of a Delta unisaw compared to a Delta/Rockwell contractor saw? They look similar to me (contractor may even be larger due to motor hanging out the back) but I don't want to make a big mistake here. The unisaw is definite overkill for my abilities but it seems too good a deal to pass up. The 52" Biesemeyer is worth a lot by itself.

I don't have 220 V available in the garage, so I would either need to run a 220 V line or substitute a 110 V motor. Can this saw run a 110 V motor?

What do you think?

Thanks.

Dave

[Mike Cruz]

I don't believe that a 5 HP motor will run on 110. Check the motor, it will say whether it is 110/220, or 220 only. The amp draw on a 5 HP 110 would be huge. That saw is easily worth $2400 + new (with the 52" Beismeyer fence). $400 is a steal for that (assuming all parts are in good shape and it works well).

As for the footprint...for the saw itself, the Unisaw is probably smaller, but with the 52" fence, that eats up spcace. But if you can get it, I would! (And did recently...see my latest gloat if you haven't already.)

[Tom Slupek]

I can get a 9 year old unisaw (5 hp, 3 phase, 200 volt motor) in good shape (needs only new cord and plug) with 52 inch Beismeyer fence for $400, but not sure it will fit in my 2 car garage workspace. This space currently easily houses my Rockwell contractor saw with original fence. What is the footprint of a Delta unisaw compared to a Delta/Rockwell contractor saw? They look similar to me (contractor may even be larger due to motor hanging out the back) but I don't want to make a big mistake here. The unisaw is definite overkill for my abilities but it seems too good a deal to pass up. The 52" Biesemeyer is worth a lot by itself.

I don't have 220 V available in the garage, so I would either need to run a 220 V line or substitute a 110 V motor. Can this saw run a 110 V motor?

What do you think?

Thanks.

Dave

Foot print is smaller due to motor being under the table. Longer rails will take more room of to the right side but you can always swap them with someone here for shorter ones or cut them down.

You will need 220in your garage and a phase converter. You do not have 3 phase in your house, I just went through the same thing after buying a PM66 with 5hp 3 phase motor, I ended up getting a 3hp single phase motor.

[David Milstone]

Thanks for the rapid reply. How do you move a unisaw? I removed the base when I bought my used contractor saw and took everything in my station wagon. Can I do the same with the unisaw? I suppose it might require two trips given the table associated with the 52 inch fence. That would be fine by me.

Also, I've seen several old unisaws advertised for $500 and up, but most are older than this saw, in worse shape and with worse fences. They might still be good deals but I have been happy with my contractor saw ($150) until this deal came along seemingly to good to pass up.

[Chaz Alexopoulos]

This is very large for a 2 car garage. I know, I have one. My motor is single phase though so I was able to just take over the water heater hookup, which I replaced last year with a tankless. I have the mobile base for the saw and the additional mobil base for the extension. I roll it up against the wall when not using it and it takes up half of the wall by itself. But, I added a router to the extension table and that makes up for the extra space. Hope this helps.

[Chaz Alexopoulos]

One thing I should mention. I installed the extension table AND the right side extension wing. You can leave the extension wing off to save some space.

[David Milstone]

Thanks for the info.

Tom- Do you remember the approximately cost for your 3 hp single phase motor. Supplier? Is there a used market for the 5 hp 3 phase?

Chaz - I was already contemplating a right side extension table/router table on my contractor saw so this would fit my plans well. Would also like a downdraft table/rear extension table combo on either saw. I think dual purposing is essential in such a space.

Dave

[Jerome Hanby]

I'm restoring a Unisaw and currently have it sitting on a shopmade platform with casters. I have to work around everyday and it's completely obvious that it occupies less space than my Craftsman contractor saw.

[Jerome Hanby]

The two guys I bought mine from helped me and the three of us were able to get it into the back of my truck. If it hadn't of been stored in a building where the floor was about the same level as my pickup, it would have been dicey. Back at home, I removed the rails, Cast Iron extensions, and Cast Iron table. My Wife and I were just able to ease the rest out of the truck and onto my homegrown rolling base.

I don't see how one person could manage it without some kind of hoist.


Thanks for the rapid reply. How do you move a unisaw? I removed the base when I bought my used contractor saw and took everything in my station wagon. Can I do the same with the unisaw? I suppose it might require two trips given the table associated with the 52 inch fence. That would be fine by me.

Also, I've seen several old unisaws advertised for $500 and up, but most are older than this saw, in worse shape and with worse fences. They might still be good deals but I have been happy with my contractor saw ($150) until this deal came along seemingly to good to pass up.

[Mike Cruz]

David, first of all mine has the mobile base, so that is how I move it aroung the shop. How did I get mine home? I put a chain under the mobile base on the saw side, attached it to the bucket of my JD tractor, lifted it up and gently placed it in the bed of my truck...how else? Hehe. Actually, I knew ahead of time that this guy had no way of loading it in my pick up, so I towed my tractor along.

If you can't do it like I did, you probably need to remove the cast iron top, the Beismeyer fences and the extension table. Then it will be more easily moved.

Don't forget that yes, this saw costs $400, but after you sell your contractor's saw, you will end up only paying $250 to $300! :)

[Mike Cruz]

David, I'm SO sorry, I completely missed that it has a 3 phase motor. Yeah, you'll certainly need a new motor or a 3 phase converter. A 3 HP motor should run you $300 to $400. Check Ebay. Not that you have to buy there, but it will at least give you an idea of cost. BTW my Uni has a 3 HP single phase motor, standard.

[David Milstone]

"A 3 HP motor should run you $300 to $400."

A unisaw with single phase 3 hp motor currently on CL is only $444. What to do with an "extra" unisaw sans motor? This could get a pretty ridiculous in my little garage.http://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/icons/icon10.gif Maybe I can find a used motor without an annoying saw attached to it.

[Mike Cruz]

Where do you keep finding these Uni's so cheap? Unless they aren't in good condition...:rolleyes: All the ones I've seen around here are $900 and above...except the one I found...:D

[scott spencer]

David - If that saw is in nice shape, it'll be worth swapping motors for, or getting a phase converter for it. With the right motor deal, you could have it up and running for ~ $700. You could easily sell off the parts of that other Uni, or even the whole skeleton, and keep the motor.

It's always a shame to see anyone cut down the rails, but it is a possibility if need be. or you could swap with someone. My 2 car garage shop pretty easily accommodates a Shop Fox cabinet saw with 36" rip, and I had 40" rip before that. I get a bit less than half that space...it all depends on how you set your shop up. The Biese fence will fit the rails of most of the more popular copies that have 2" x 3" steel rails...HTC, Jet, PM, Shop Fox. The main cast iron top of both saws should roughly be the same size. The depth is typically a standard 27" deep, and the wings vary a bit. Your contractor saw's motor will hang out ~ 13" farther. I think you'll love the added mass/stability, power, full enclosure, and internal motor. Good luck!

My layout in 1/2 the garage:
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/myshop.jpg

[Rod Sheridan]

David, i don't have a Unisaw, I have a General 650 in the basement of a townhouse, so space is an issue.

I ordered it with 32" rip rails which of course reduces the size of the saw, and of course the rip capacity.

I don't make cabinets wider than 30" that use sheet goods, so I'm fine with the size.

The cabinet saw takes up less front to back than a contractor saw.

If the 50" rails are too large, cut them.

I also had to cut both boom tubes on my Excalibur overarm guard to optimise it for a 32" wide saw.

You'll want to exchange the motor for a single phase motor in the 2 to 3 HP range. Don't go larger, you'll not need it.

Check the starter rating on your saw. Is it large enough for a 2 to 3 HP single phase motor at 240 volts? Is the overload relay adjustable to the value required by the new motor?

Have fun with your new saw.........Regards, Rod.

P.S. Make sure it has a guard and splitter, no point losing any digits.

[Fred Hargis]

There are 2 HP Unisaw motor available (I think makes or made one) and they might run 120V. I think the 240V service add would be worth it. With 240V you could either 1) put in a phase converter, or 2) change the motor. You would also probably be able to sell the old ones, some guys use them as an idler motor to build their own phase converter. It sounds to me like a pretty good deal.

[David Milstone]

Where do you keep finding these Uni's so cheap? Unless they aren't in good condition...:rolleyes: All the ones I've seen around here are $900 and above...except the one I found...:D

Craig's List, with all the caveats.

[David Milstone]

I haven't heard anything regarding the saw that started this thread (or the others mentioned above) so I suppose they already sold even though I replied immediately. Not surprising, I guess.

I have since found an old unisaw, said to run well, essentially for free. It has a 220/110 V, single phase, 1 hp, 1725 rpm motor. Delta customer service's search did not find the serial number that is stamped on the saw face plate. They want numbers from internal cast iron parts, which I don't have but can get.

I've read about (on the "Unisaw FAQs" web page) staying away from unisaws with 1725 rpm motors (instead of the newer 3450 rpm). Is this solely because the internal gearing must accommodate this difference, meaning true replacement parts are not available and replacingthe motor also means a new motor pulley, possibly a new switch with overload protection, etc., etc.? Rewinding is suggested as an alternative. Might still be ok if this saw functions and is essentially free.

Does anyone know who to contact about such saws? Does anyone have a contact at Delta or elsewhere who can evaluate these saws based on criteria other than SN? Delta customer service said they don't have anyone who knows these old saws, but if they don't who does?

Thanks.

[John Morrison60]

David

I have an old Unisaw with the 1725 RPM motor.
Those motors are much prized by Unisaw enthusiasts.
You should probably have the brushes and bearings replaced, if it has not already been done. The arbor bearings should also probably be replaced.
Those old Unisaws are real jewels.

If you go to OWWM.org you will find a forum dealing solely with old wood working machines, a wealth of information. You have a terrific saw, protect it. BTW
jump on getting the saw, even in rusty, ugly, shape, that saw could sell for $300 to $600.

Good Luck.

John

[Tom Slupek]

I haven't heard anything regarding the saw that started this thread (or the others mentioned above) so I suppose they already sold even though I replied immediately. Not surprising, I guess.

I have since found an old unisaw, said to run well, essentially for free. It has a 220/110 V, single phase, 1 hp, 1725 rpm motor. Delta customer service's search did not find the serial number that is stamped on the saw face plate. They want numbers from internal cast iron parts, which I don't have but can get.

I've read about (on the "Unisaw FAQs" web page) staying away from unisaws with 1725 rpm motors (instead of the newer 3450 rpm). Is this solely because the internal gearing must accommodate this difference, meaning true replacement parts are not available and replacingthe motor also means a new motor pulley, possibly a new switch with overload protection, etc., etc.? Rewinding is suggested as an alternative. Might still be ok if this saw functions and is essentially free.

Does anyone know who to contact about such saws? Does anyone have a contact at Delta or elsewhere who can evaluate these saws based on criteria other than SN? Delta customer service said they don't have anyone who knows these old saws, but if they don't who does?

Thanks.


Go here http://wiki.owwm.com/Default.aspx?AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1#DHH_-_Delta_Unisaw_6

Almost everything you need to know about an old Unisaw.

Sign up to the forums http://www.owwm.org/ and do search for more info. If it is free get it and go from there. I

[David Milstone]

Go here http://wiki.owwm.com/Default.aspx?AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1#DHH_-_Delta_Unisaw_6

Almost everything you need to know about an old Unisaw.

Sign up to the forums http://www.owwm.org/ and do search for more info. If it is free get it and go from there. I

Thanks for the info and links. I'm trying to obtain the saw before it's gone. I plan to remove the rails, table and extensions and put the cabinet (19 7/16” X 19 7/16” X 34) in my station wagon with rear seats down. It should fit easily if we can lift it in. Do you foresee any problems doing this?

For some reason this saw is entirely painted red (except for the original exposed bare metal). Maybe it's been reconditioned in the past. It appears to be a real unisaw though. I don't see how one could fake that.

Dave

[Jerome Hanby]

[QUOTE=David Milstone;1200633I plan to remove the rails, table and extensions and put the cabinet (19 7/16” X 19 7/16” X 34) in my station wagon with rear seats down. It should fit easily if we can lift it in. Do you foresee any problems doing this?
Dave[/QUOTE]

My wife and I were able to handle my Unisaw with it broken down like that. We were lifting the body down off of my pickup, but tipping it over and sliding it into your station wagon should be possible with a two person crew.

[Dan Ewalt]

David,
Where are you located? I for one would be willing to help in your situation with my truck and trailer, might be some others out there close to you that would do the same. :rolleyes:

[David Milstone]

My wife and I were able to handle my Unisaw with it broken down like that. We were lifting the body down off of my pickup, but tipping it over and sliding it into your station wagon should be possible with a two person crew.

Thanks. Unfortunately, it just sold (for $50, which I consider essentially "free") to someone else less than 24 hours after listing. But I'll be ready next time something like this comes along (although I may have to wait a long time).

Dave

[David Milstone]

David,
Where are you located? I for one would be willing to help in your situation with my truck and trailer, might be some others out there close to you that would do the same. :rolleyes:

Dan,

Wow! Thanks very much for the offer. This saw apparently already found a new home but I will keep in mind. I am searching the area of Southern New England.

Dave

[Vince Sandy]

David,

For future reference, the Unisaw is not really that difficult to move. I have moved an old (1941) unisaw, a Delta HD shaper, and a Powermatic 66 using my full size pickup, a 4-caster dolly, and a 2-wheel hand truck. All three machines are about the same size and weight.

If you remove the fence and table wings the machine can be moved quite easily without assistance. I moved all three the same way with the main table, motor, etc. assembled. After positioning the machine next to the tailgate you can lift at the base and tilt the machine into the bed using the tailgate as a pivot point. I use old blankets or furniture pads for cushion and to prevent scarring. It takes a little more care getting it out but in all three instances I had the 4-caster dolly in position to set the machine on. Start by pulling the machine outward (base first) and then swinging the base downward to let it sit on the dolly. I suspect you can use the same method with a minivan or station wagon.

Also, keep in mind that the Unisaw has a unique motor mount that can't be swapped out with standard frame motors. It takes a Unisaw motor or modification to a standard frame motor. Like others, I highly recommend the OWWM forum. It is loaded with great information and great folks. This subject has been discussed many times so search the archives.

Good luck with your search.

Vince in NC

[Joe Spear]

[QUOTE=John Morrison

I have an old Unisaw with the 1725 RPM motor.
Those motors are much prized by Unisaw enthusiasts.
You should probably have the brushes and bearings replaced, if it has not already been done.


I thought that the old Unisaw motors were induction motors. If so, I don't believe they have brushes. Correct me if I'm wrong.

[David Milstone]

David,

For future reference, the Unisaw is not really that difficult to move ...

Vince in NC

Thanks. I can actually see it happening!

Dave

[Dave Cav]

[QUOTE=John Morrison

I have an old Unisaw with the 1725 RPM motor.
Those motors are much prized by Unisaw enthusiasts.
You should probably have the brushes and bearings replaced, if it has not already been done.


I thought that the old Unisaw motors were induction motors. If so, I don't believe they have brushes. Correct me if I'm wrong.

The older single phase Unisaws used a repulsion-induction motor which apparently developed quite a bit of torque for their size and voltage. They do have brushes. They provided high starting torque at lower voltages, and were easy to reverse by swapping the brushes. Finding an old Unisaw with the original R-I motor is a major gloat in the OWWM world.