Rigid 6" Jointer Table Adjustment Help

[Clint Schlosser]

I own a Rigid 6" jp610 jointer. I just purchased a helical cutter head and began the process of installing it. The first thing i did was check both my tables for parallelism. I discovered I had about .002" sag in the outfeed side which is no big deal. However there was a huge problem with the infeed table.

What I found is that the infeed table is not parallel with the outfeed. The tip is .02" lower than the part near the cutter head. This means it is slanted and appears like it could be fixed.

What could I do or use to to level up the infeed table? Before I get out a metal file or mess something up what does everyone suggest. It is wayyy out of warranty, and selling it for a new one is not an option. There has to be a simple fix since there appears to be gib adjustment screws but they do not directly provide up and down adjustment upon first glance.

[Clint Schlosser]

I was at the KC wood workers meeting last night and it was suggested I purchase some shims from an autoparts store and shim the outfeed table to match the infeed table. Does anyone know if this is a viable solution?

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Wow, no one posted? Yes, that is the only way I think. I have that planer too, and did a quick scan throught the manual, and didn't see an adjustment. I was hoping someone had the answer. And it wasn't adding shims. :)

Personally, that is on the infeed table, so it may not be that critical. The outfeed is the critical measurement. If you can live with it, let it be.

[Clint Schlosser]

The net effect of this issue is to have tapered boards so it is not livable. I am going to attempt the shim fix to have the outfeed match the infeed. That was the consensus at the guild meeting.

[glenn bradley]

I would shim it but, your infeed being a bit out is much less impactive than your outfeed being bad. A valid surface to register the 'just cut' surface is pretty critical. How is your end result when jointing now? The answer to that question would certainly temper my need to mess with DT way shimming. If I could avoid it I would. If the cut is unsatisfactory, I would not hesitate to correct it. I just wouldn't mess with the DT's if I didn't have to.

[Clint Schlosser]

As I have said the effect of the infeed table being out of alignment the way it is to taper the board really not acceptable since the longer the board the more it tapers.

I am have extreme difficulty finding a hardware store that sells brass shim material thinner than .05". I see "do it best" has it available online since none of their stores are close enough to just pop over. The cost is 4$ but shipping is a lot. I am still going to modify the outfeed side to match the infeed side since it does not move.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Are you putting the pressure on the outfeed when jointing?

You can get .0015 brass shims from the "olden days" car parts stores. The on line mass market computer driven parts stores would probably not know what a shim is.

[Clint Schlosser]

I bought some Feeler gauges from Harbor freight for 3$ and they were perfect for the job.

What I have discovered about my jointer is that somewhere along the way both the adjustment knobs make the table move in a "lumpy" kind of way. I cleaned out the dovetails. The screws that move the table are bent somehow.

As long as I am careful when adjusting it I can live with the issue but knowing its there sure as heck caused me a lot of frustration. I am buying new next time.