Resawing Help

[Mike Goetzke]

I'm building an entrance door. I was planning to make the door frame parts from 8/4 QSWO but I've been getting help from an experienced door builder and have finally been convinced to use engineered stiles (LVL cores).

This requires 1/4" veneer for the faces. I plan to use my BS for the resawing. I already bought the 8/4 lumber and need to resaw it to probably 3/8" or so to allow for planing/sanding smooth. Besides the 8/4x6"x86" board being heavy what is the recommended procedure to make my veneer? Do I join a face and plane the other side smooth and make one veneer and flip the board and cut the second (always having a smooth surface against the fence) then repeat?

Thanks,

Mike

[Tom Hintz]

I always keep a smooth surface against the fence or else the cut itself will show at least some of the defects. Most often I would resaw one face and then joint the cut surface on the original board before resawing another. It is just easier (and safer) to joint the cut surface while it is on the thicker board. Then back to the bandsaw to make another resaw cut. That way all of the resawn piecews have a smooth surface I can put on the planer table to smooth and true up the cut face.

[Prashun Patel]

With all due respect, I'd just buy new 1/2" QSWO if you want to use veneers. 1/2" QSWO should be pretty cheap to come by. The 8/4 would make great stock for legs of some other project....

Also, less time on the saw is always a good thing.

Just my 2cents.

Also, when squaring stock, the best thing is to rip and cross cut to approximate length. This minimizes waste.

The procedure I use is:

1) Flatten face (jointer)
2) Square edge to that face (jointer)
3) Plane other face (planer)
4) Rip to final width (tablesaw)

[Jeff Duncan]

So what's the problem with using solid wood for the doors?

JeffD

[Ben Franz]

So what's the problem with using solid wood for the doors?

:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:

Uhh, it moves - expands, shrinks, warps, twists, etc. with changes in moisture content, exposure to UV/sunlight.

Many high end commercial door manufacturers are going this route now - interior doors are sometimes made from MDF with solid wood components at hinge and lock locations.

Solid wood can be evil stuff to deal with - if it wasn't so beautiful to see, touch and smell we'd probably burn it all.

[Pete Bradley]

That's a big stick to push through single handed. I'd want a helper who starts at the tail end of the piece, then walks around as the cut approaches the middle so he can support the front end as the cut is completed. Ideally you also want strong featherboards or rollers to help hold the piece against the fence and keep it from raising.

Just curious -- can you really put a 1/4" veneer on an LVL without it splitting in the winter?

Pete

[Mike Goetzke]

Jeff - I was thinking the same about using solid hardwood (that's why I bought it). But, I searched the forums including WN and found more than one person had the door later bow on them. With all the effort in this whole project I thought I'd take a hint from the pros.

Pete - luckily I have a couple helpers at home to help with the resawing.

Others - here is a place that sells engineered stiles like I plan to build:

Engineered Stiles (http://www.engineeredwoodstiles.com/index.htm)

...and here is one from the guy helping me:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/Projects/Entrance%20Door/LVL%20Beam/stilecoreandparts006.jpg

Mike

[Sam Layton]

Hi Mike,

I am going to build all of the doors in my house. I was going to use 4/4 laminated together for more stability instead of using 8/4. What type of joinery are you going to use?

Sam

[Craig Che]

I am building my own as well, but laminating 3 layers together of solid mahogany. The West Marine epoxy is supposed to be great stuff so hoping it all works well together.

[Darren Duchi]

QSWO stiles that are engineered either with lvl core- timberstrand- or Fj solid hardwood core is the best way to ensure straight durable product. the only thing i would recommend is that you use a glue that when it cures is hard as glass such as a melamine type or weldwood. this is important with check prone wood but the fact that you are using qs should limit the possibility for check. Our company has been manufacturing stiles for the custom door market for 15+ years.