refrigerator side panel

[joe milana]

I am making a side panel for a built in refrigerator. Side panel is 24" x 84" and was thinking about simulating frame and panel "shaker" construction by gluing 1/4" thick maple "stile and rail" to a "torson box" made of 2 sheets of 1/2" ply and grid totaling 1 3/4" thick. There will be a face frame attached to the edge. Would this work or would I be better off sticking to conventional frame and panel construction? The panel will be unsupported floor to soffit and I want it plenty strong. Hope this makes sense...

Thanks!

[Jamie Buxton]

If your lumberyards are like mine, it'll cost you less to use two layers of 3/4" ply than two layers of 1/2" ply plus spacers. The reason is that my dealers regard 1/2" ply as low-volume product, so they only stock A1 grade. In 3/4" ply, they often stock several grades, and often have grades like "good one side". "Good one side" 3/4" ply costs less than 1/2" A1. On top of that, two layers of 3/4" ply is less work, and is stronger, than the torsion box you porpose.

[Ben Franz]

Is your refrigerator panel going to get extra heavy wear and tear? Maybe a handball practice area? If not, a single 3/4" sheet of plywood with the applied rail and stile and face off with a face frame would probably be plenty strong. I usually install modular kitchens and these are often done with an edge banded sheet of 5/8" material and no face frame. Not saying this is the best solution but in the real world it's cost effective and does the job. However the panel is built, I anchor it at the floor and wall with a small cleat on the inside where ir doesn't show.

[bill mullin]

I'd guess that about half the fridge panels I've installed have a 1x2 face, and half are edged, but all of them are a single sheet of 1/2" to 3/4" ply, or even particle board. And yes, secure it at the bottom.
If the fridge is a fairly tight fit so that you can't see to the back, I'll install a 1x2 nailer (vertically) on the wall to attach the panel to.