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View Full Version : Blade guard for Ridgid TS3650; PSI (Overhead) or SharkGuard?



Greg L. Brown
08-17-2009, 2:47 PM
I need a better blade guard for my Ridgid TS3650 table saw. I've done heaps of research and, due to money limitations, I've whittled my choices between PSI's TSGuard: http://www.pennstateind.com/store/TSGUARD.html

and the Shark Guard http://www.leestyron.com/sharkridgid.php

My primary concern is safety (as a blade guard) and dust collection as secondary. In terms of price, the PSI is only $150 (shipped and delivered) vs. $177 for SharkGuard.

Any comments on the two systems (mostly the PSI; I've heard alot of positives on Sharkguard). I'm leaning towards the PSI overhead system because I may upgrade my saw in 3-5 years and I like that it hovers above the saw. The 3-plus month wait on the SharkGuard isn't ideal either.

I'd also have to buy a new splitter since the one that came with the Ridgid won't work with the PSI TSGUARD. Would an MJ Splitter work with the PSI system?

Thanks,
Greg

Prashun Patel
08-17-2009, 3:08 PM
I'm a sharkguard user. Happy. Mainly with the service. I've heard the boom on the PSI can sag. That's hearsay, though.

I had an MJ Splitter. Didn't like it. Kept popping out of the insert. I made a splitter out of a sawed off gate hinge. Worked like a dream.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=1089995#poststop

Rod Sheridan
08-17-2009, 3:31 PM
Hi Greg, in my opinion the SharkGuard has a serious design flaw, it can't be used for non through sawing operations.

I have an overarm guard (Excalibur) on my saw and like it, I also have a Merlin splitter on the saw.

If you do not plan on cutting rebates or dadoes, the Shark Guard should be fine, otherwise you need an overarm guard.

Regards, Rod

Mike Sandman
08-17-2009, 3:59 PM
True, the Shark Guard only works for through cuts. A lot of the dust you generate when you cut a dado should get trapped under the piece you're cutting, but some will escape out the back of the cut, and out of the front just as you're finishing the dado. I have my dust collector drawing from both the Shark Guard and from the port in the cabinet of my saw. When I take the guard off for a dado etc., it's easy to close off the upper hose and draw through the cabinet. That reduces dust on non-through cuts.

I looked at the PSI website and like Shawn, I'd be concerned about hanging much weight on a long arm, especially if you have more than 30" of capacity to the right of the blade. The Excalibur overarm guard is out there for a lot more money and it gets good reviews but almost all of the photos I've seen include modifications to stabilze it.

There are tradeoffs in all these decisions, and the PSI solution may work. The Shark Guard definitely works amazingly well, but only for through cuts. The lead time is long but the results are worth the wait.

Rod Sheridan
08-18-2009, 3:20 PM
True, the Shark Guard only works for through cuts. A lot of the dust you generate when you cut a dado should get trapped under the piece you're cutting, but some will escape out the back of the cut, and out of the front just as you're finishing the dado. I have my dust collector drawing from both the Shark Guard and from the port in the cabinet of my saw. When I take the guard off for a dado etc., it's easy to close off the upper hose and draw through the cabinet. That reduces dust on non-through cuts.

I looked at the PSI website and like Shawn, I'd be concerned about hanging much weight on a long arm, especially if you have more than 30" of capacity to the right of the blade. The Excalibur overarm guard is out there for a lot more money and it gets good reviews but almost all of the photos I've seen include modifications to stabilze it.

There are tradeoffs in all these decisions, and the PSI solution may work. The Shark Guard definitely works amazingly well, but only for through cuts. The lead time is long but the results are worth the wait.

Hi Mike, I wasn't actually thinking about dust collection while cutting dadoes, I was concerned with having no guard.

A dado is great for grabbing your entire hand:eek:.

The Excalibur comes with 2 braces that are designed to be connected to the saw itself. I haven't had any problems with mine, however it's on a 32" saw.

The demo model at the dealer near me is on a General with 50" rip capacity and it's fine as well.

Maybe it's something new?

I like the Shark Guard, however running the saw without a guard , isn't something I'm willing to do so I bought the Excalibur instead.

Regards, Rod.

Prashun Patel
08-18-2009, 3:34 PM
Thought of something else:

Sharkguards are made for a specific model of saw. So if you ever upgrade your Rigid, you'll need a new guard. The PSI and Excalibur solutions are independent of saw design.

Rod Sheridan
08-18-2009, 3:55 PM
Thought of something else:

Sharkguards are made for a specific model of saw. So if you ever upgrade your Rigid, you'll need a new guard. The PSI and Excalibur solutions are independent of saw design.

Good point Shawn, I should have thought of that as I measured mine to make sure it would transfer from the General to one of those funny Austrian machines.....Rod.

Greg L. Brown
08-18-2009, 4:35 PM
Thanks for the replies all. One big question I had is about a splitter upgrade. If I go the PSI (overhead) route, what would I use for a splitter? That's the nice think about the Sharkguard, it's the whole enchilada (guard, DC, and splitter). With my Ridgid saw, the splitter won't work with the PSI unit. I wish my TS had a riving knife so bad. Would solve so much!

Any recommendations for splitters (or something better) for a Ridgid TS3650 saw? Maybe I'll post this as a separate topic (might get more hits). MJ splitter seems the best for my needs.

I'm still leaning towards the Sharkguard, but $177 plus a few upgrades and it's quite pricey. I can get the PSI for $125 out the door (I have a gift $30 gift card).

Prashun Patel
08-18-2009, 4:53 PM
I'll reiterate that you can make your own splitter with a little ingenuity.
However, if you want to buy a splitter, you can always buy one from Lee Styron (he sells the splitters by themselves without the guards). The medium height one is about $35 shipped, and the 'shorty' is only $12 shipped.

In fact, I believe that (in solution to my previous post) if you ever upgrade your saw, you can simply buy new splitters and mount your existing SG to them. Of course, by then, Lee will probably be on Version 32, which power feeds the wood for you, and has a dust port with tha kung fu grip.

glenn bradley
08-18-2009, 4:58 PM
I've run the PSI for years.

Pros:
- Good blade protection; I also run a ZCI and the MJ Splitter along with it.
- Swings easily out of the way when not required.
- Very adjustable as to position.
- Much more solid than I first thought, it has never given me a problem and I swing it in and out of service many times a day.

Cons:
- 4" to 3" reduction at the mast and then to 2-1/2" at the hood. With my 1HP bagger this was inadequate, my 2HP cyclone works great.
- Can't really think of any others.

Jerome Hanby
08-18-2009, 5:01 PM
Anyone look at the guard project from Shopnotes 103? It mounted to the rip fence. I bet it could be modified to be a bit wider and handle non through cuts. If not, it would be easy to remove...

Greg L. Brown
08-18-2009, 5:09 PM
I'll reiterate that you can make your own splitter with a little ingenuity.
However, if you want to buy a splitter, you can always buy one from Lee Styron (he sells the splitters by themselves without the guards). The medium height one is about $35 shipped, and the 'shorty' is only $12 shipped.

In fact, I believe that (in solution to my previous post) if you ever upgrade your saw, you can simply buy new splitters and mount your existing SG to them. Of course, by then, Lee will probably be on Version 32, which power feeds the wood for you, and has a dust port with tha kung fu grip.

Shawn,
Any idea if the medium height and "shorty" splitters from Lee (Sharkguard) will work with the PSI (overhead) unit? Seems like the only thing that will work with the PSI unit is the MicroJig (MJ) splitter.

Prashun Patel
08-18-2009, 9:46 PM
In pix I've seen of the PSI, it seems like any splitter would work. You should email Lee Styron and ask him.

Robert Chapman
08-18-2009, 10:08 PM
I have a Sharkguard. It is a well designed and engineered piece of equipment. But it took Lee 23 weeks to make it and get it to me. So if it is not important to have the product quickly there is no problem with the Sharkguard.

glenn bradley
08-18-2009, 10:40 PM
Shawn,
Any idea if the medium height and "shorty" splitters from Lee (Sharkguard) will work with the PSI (overhead) unit? Seems like the only thing that will work with the PSI unit is the MicroJig (MJ) splitter.


In pix I've seen of the PSI, it seems like any splitter would work. You should email Lee Styron and ask him.

Shawn is pretty much correct as far as I can tell. I position my hood so that the splitter is outside the rear of the guard box. This gets more of the dust but as you say; that is secondary to you.

125673

If the hood is positioned so that the splitter fits inside with the blade, you're looking at something like this; this is a 1x2x3" block inside the hood:

Rod Sheridan
08-19-2009, 8:23 AM
Anyone look at the guard project from Shopnotes 103? It mounted to the rip fence. I bet it could be modified to be a bit wider and handle non through cuts. If not, it would be easy to remove...
Hi Jerome, how would it work when using the mitre gauge?

Regards, Rod.

Jerome Hanby
08-19-2009, 11:15 AM
I don't have the issue in front of me, but looking at the picture on their website, the guard slides on a pair of metal rods attached to the platform that attaches to the fence. I'm not sure of the length of those rods, but I guess the idea would be to slide the fence away from the miter slot that is in use and telescope the guard back over the blade. If you needed the whole table saw top (like for crosscutting a long board), you'd lose the guard for that operation.

I guess the only 100% solution is to have the table saw be immobile and the guard suspended from the ceiling.

Of course you could build a big honking crosscut sled with a built in guard/dust collection and switch to it for crosscuts... Now that I've typed that I think that's exactly the route I'm going to take. For "normal" use and dadoing, I think I'll build a modified Shopnotes guard.

Would be easier to just buy one of the high dollar, highly regarded overarm systems, but what fun is that :D

Prashun Patel
08-19-2009, 11:21 AM
Jerome-
Here's one I made last year. Not the best execution, but u get the idea.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=81343&highlight=cross+sled+dust

Jerome Hanby
08-19-2009, 12:34 PM
Jerome-
Here's one I made last year. Not the best execution, but u get the idea.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=81343&highlight=cross+sled+dust

Looks pretty good to me, especially the second version! Prepare to be copied from shamelessly:D

Rick Metcalf
08-19-2009, 2:40 PM
I ordered a Sharkguard second week in May. Lee is shipping it to me the end of this week. Just about 12 weeks as he is saying on his site. I can't wait to get it on my saw.:) Been working with the clumsy PM66 stock guard and splitter.:(