Bandsaw Circle Cutter Table with Kreg Fence Rail

[Thomas Canfield]

With the great price recently on the Kreg Bandsaw Fence at Hartsville, my old circle cutter rig would not work since it needed the edge of the table to prevent tipping and the board could not pass the fence. So, new rig #4 was developed including some improvements that came form other woodworkers in our local club.
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The table is 1/2" MDF and uses a section of 3/4" wide by 1/2" deep track from Rockler. The runner in the miter slot is red oak (leave runner long for alignment when table pulled back to load material), and supports and front board are scraps. There is a "T" hinge inset on the rear with the strap bent to hook under the table to prevent tipping with weight on the outer section before the table is pushed against the Kreg rail and lower guide preventing tipping. A Tee Nut was installed in the front board and bolt with locking nut provided to set the alignment of the blade front with the center pin, #6 machine screw with head cut off and pointed. I used a self tapping screw to tap the holes in the track (broke off the first one, so remembered to add some oil for additional tapped holes). All the material was in the shop, but cost for material should be less than $15 if one went out and bought individual items. A circle cutter for the bandsaw is really a great asset. It made quick work of preparing 10 bowl blanks, and has some flat work heading its direction soon.

PS - the Kreg fence is great also.

[Tom Veatch]

Neat!

I haven't used my bandsaw circle jig since installing the Kreg fence, so I hadn't noticed the interference. If you don't mind, I'll steal some of the features you described for my next version.

Agree with your assessment of the Kreg fence - although the threaded hole in the front of the base for the locking knob was oversized in the one I received - to the point the 5/16-18 stud would almost pass freely through the hole. Kreg was great about sending me a replacement base - which also had an oversized hole. A helicoil fixed both. Went ahead and installed helicoils in the threaded holes for the fence bracket as well - thought I felt a little yielding when I tightened down the fence bracket on the base.

[Bill Huber]

I really like my Kreg fence, I think it really does a great job.

I make a circle cutting table for my Jet, somewhat the same as yours only the way I attached it is a little different.


http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=95574&highlight=circle

[Stephen Edwards]

I don't understand how these BS circle cutting jigs work. Could someone post pics showing the different steps of a circle cutting operation while using the jig......step by step, please. Thanks in advance.

[Bill Huber]

I don't understand how these BS circle cutting jigs work. Could someone post pics showing the different steps of a circle cutting operation while using the jig......step by step, please. Thanks in advance.


Here is the way I use mine.


I can cut any thing form as small as a 1/4" blade will cut up to 47" radius. Some times you not cutting a circle, you just want to cut an arc.

To start I set the pin, I also have a taller pin that I can use that needs a hole in the board. I use the pointed pin the most, that way I don't have to drill a hole in my board.

So here I am setting the pin to cut and 8" circle, 4" radius.

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Now I have the board cut close to the size of the circle, just a little larger. With a center punch I punch a hole in the board just a little longer then the radius, like 1/32 or so and centered from the other sides. Place the board on the pin which will load or push the blade a small amount. This will let the blade saw in and you will make a perfectly round circle. Turn on the saw and cut the circle.


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My table is somewhat longer then some, I made it so I could cut just about anything I could think of. I also have a set screw that I can use to lock the bar so the thumb screw will not get in the way. I can also turn the bar around to make the 47 inch radius.

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Thats about it......

[Thomas Canfield]

I want to add the following to what Bill wrote:

1. My table uses 1/2" MDF to minimize the height loss since I do not have a riser block (and don't intend to change all my blades at this stage). I have built tables previously using double thickness but now hate to loose any height. 1/2" MDF is 1/2" thick as is the track, and 1/2" plywood is thinner and would result in track protruding.

2. My table can slide with the wood installed on the pin so that you can turn a smaller diameter than the size of the block without having the wood tangent to the blade at start. The pin is set to correct radius, wood installed, and then the table is pushed forward to engage the cut to the correct radius. The adjustable stop bolt is used to be sure that the cutting edge of the blade is in line with the pivot pin to prevent the blade trying to wander in the cut.

3. I do not cut down large piece except to make sure of clearance. I migsht mark out 6 or 8 circles on a 2' square, drill pivot holes, and then set the board on the pivot pin and feed into the saw to cut the circles.

4. Drilled holes for the pivot pin works if blind hole or through hole is acceptable. You can add a "pivot plate with hole" using double stick tape and then shim under the wood in area of blade and other support to make a circle with no pivot point showing in final.

[Stephen Edwards]

Thank you gentlemen. Now, I get it!