Drill press recommendations

[Casey Mabry]

Hello all, I just joined and this is my first post! I just recently got back into woodworking and I'm looking for a drill press for my shop. I currently have a 16x18 shop with a table saw (the new rigid model), small table top bandsaw I inherited and intend to someday replace, dust collector (also inherited) scroll saw, and a good variety of hand power tools. I'm looking at a floor model drill press and would like to keep the total price under 400, preferably 350 would be great. I've looked at the rigid 1555, but haven't found many reviews, also I've looked at the delta 17-950L. The delta is at the high end of my range and I can't distinguish many differences between it and the rigid to warrant the extra money. :confused: So, my question to all you knowlegeable woodworkers is for any recommedations, reviews, etc. Also would I be better off to save a little longer and get the Jet that I would love to have? I have read two schools of thought on drill presses. 1. all it does it drill holes, no need on spending alot on this tool. 2. the press is a work horse in the shop, better get a good one. Any opinions on these two statements? Thanx in advance for any advice:)

[Cary Falk]

Also would I be better off to save a little longer and get the Jet that I would love to have?
No, Save up for the Steel City.:D
http://www.steelcitytoolworks.com/products/20520/20520_tool.jpg

[jim hedgpeth]

Get one with the longest stroke you can afford. I am getting a Steel city when I get the money saved up. I had a little bench top that was short on stroke, it gets annoying very fast.

What ever your price range stroke would be my top priority, a wide speed range is good to. You should be OK in the 3-400 range, that delta was a consideration for me too. In my opinion though the laser is not worth extra. They tend to only be set right at a given distance from the drill head. I may still get it if I find one on sale somewhere for the right price.

Jim

[Thomas Canfield]

Casey,

I find the drill press to be one of the most useful tools in the shop, and have progressed from a bench top through 2 Delta floor units. The big things that I suggest you look for are:

1. Rack elevation of table for ease of adjusting
2. Lock for quill travel to hold spindle in lowered position
3. Depth stop
3. Variable speed (lower important for larger forstner bits especially), Belt changing is not that difficult, but the 12 speed and more are harder to change with 2 belts. Variable speed would be nice but not in your price range.
4. Ability to add drill press auxillary table with fence - you really need one for lots of tasks in woodworking. Size of metal table not that important with auxillary table.
5. Long spindle travel - 4" minimum and more is better
6. Light or ability to add light (I had to add a piece of flat plate on latest Delta to get a magnetic light to work)

Good Luck. I have been happy with my Deltas (all 3).

[Basil Rathbone]

I agree with the SC choice. I have one and love the 6" quill travel. The split head is great for the quill lock and the light is a nice touch.

I got mine with the laser crosshairs and they do work, but I always check first so it is not a deal breaker. If it comes with one, take it.

The 215 rpm low speed was also really convenient when I drilled 127 1 1/4" holes through 1" oak for a wine rack.

No doubt there are a lot of really good drill presses out there, but I am sure if you go the SC route, you will not be disappointed.

Retired and living in Sun Peaks, BC, Canada. I'm too old to have any vested interest in anything, but I did do my research first, which is what you are doing now, so take it for what it is worth, and have fun.

Basil

[David Christopher]

Casey, first off, welcome to the creek.....I have had a enco drill press for years with no problems..take a look at them, alot of times you can get them at better prices than the well known brands

[Kyle Iwamoto]

No one mentioned the importance of HP? I am not familiar with the SC, but my Delta 16.5" (old model) does all I can ask. It has a 3/4 HP motor. Newer ones may have more. That would be minimum for me. I really like it. No light, I need a clamp on light. No handy flat spot to mount.

You can get an aftermarket laser, I did. I think it works great when you need to use a big hole saw. Can't see the pilot unless you bend way down and look. Not a safe way to drill IMO.

Check the recent posts for a drill press table. I built one and that makes the DP VERY handy. I use the clamp on light on the table. Made a holder for it and since my table has T tracks, I can move it around.

[Sam Layton]

Hi Casey,

Welcome to the Creek. I would save up and get the one that I wanted. If you get something that you don't really want, every time you use it you are going to wish you had purchased the one you really wanted.

Sam

[Rich Neighbarger]

For the price, either Rigid or the SC are good choices. The reality is there isn't much difference in performance in the "woodworking" line of presses, which leaves features as the key factor in ones purchases. It's a good idea to keep in mind that you will quickly grow into which ever you choose.

[glenn bradley]

Welcome Casey. I'll chime in on the long quill stroke and variations in quality. This is all just my experience with the machines and experiences vary.

I was after the Steel City when a great deal on the 17-950 came along. I should have kept saving as it turns out but that's another story. I have not missed the extra 2-1/8 " of quill stroke like I thought I would. As a matter of fact, in practice it is a non-issue. Now the under 3" stroke of my little benchtop that I used to have? That was a pain.

As to quality, save up and get the SC or buy another machine that is higher up the model line than most $500 DP's. The Delta 17-950 seems to be the top of the line for the "Shopmaster" family of DP's. My 950 has the same basic configuration as my baby Delta DP that it replaced. After a couple of warranty issues, the addition of an after-market table and some personal tweaking, I am happy with it for what I paid. The next tier up (machines that have the 17-959 configuration and others) is a different story and the quality seems to jump quite a bit.

In hind-sight I wish I would have saved a couple extra months and gotten either the SC or another higher quality machine. On the upside, I got the warranty work done before Delta stopped coming to your house to provide those services around here, so I saved on gas ;-)

[Paul Ryan]

I just bought the new Jet exacta-x JDP-17DX about a month ago. So far I could not be happier. I can't imagin the 1 5/8 stroke I gave up can make that much of a difference. I had been drooling over the SC since last summer and something always came up to prevent the purchase. When I had a chance this summer I checked out the Jet and the SC side by side. I choose the jet due to a much better table, you wont have to build a new one with this press. The light on the jet was much nicer, the laser is acutually usable it never looses calibration no matter where the table is. Since having the drill press for a month now, I have checked the laser time and time again and it was always on. I now trust it to drill a hole where the cross hairs point, no need to double check. I would suggest finding a dealer that has a couple of models side by side and check out a few. I looked at the ridgid too but it was another inch short on the stroke, and missing other features the others had. I didn't mind spending a little extra $ at the time so I wouldn't second guess my purchase. I felt I would have always second guessed if I bought the ridgid.

[Mike Hall1]

Two points to add.

Get a Drill Press that has a threaded shaft depth stop.
Test how much 'play' there is in the quill by extending it fully and push/pull on the chuck.
Mike

[Bill White]

I'll stick w/ my 1952 Craftsman cast iron monster. Like new for $75.00 12 yrs ago. Heavy, accurate, powerful.
Bill

[Chaz Alexopoulos]

The SC has a #2MT. I read a while back that you can't use mortisng bits with a Morse Taper. I don't know if that is true but I'm sure someone who knows for sure will jump in here. That would definitely affect my decision.

[Cary Falk]

The SC has a #2MT. I read a while back that you can't use mortisng bits with a Morse Taper. I don't know if that is true but I'm sure someone who knows for sure will jump in here. That would definitely affect my decision.


I don't know if this is true or not because I have a bench mortiser. However, the Jet's, Delta's, and powermatics's in this size range have a MT2 also. Based on that I can't see how a MT2 is an issue. I know Delta makes a DP mortiser to use on their drill presses. I don't know if Steel City makes one of if the Delta one will fit.

[Ryan Baker]

The issue is probably that the friction of pulling the mortising bit out of the mortise might pull the chuck right out of the spindle taper. I can't say whether it is actually a problem on these models. I always found drill-press mortising setups to be a major pain anyway. Fortunately, I have a dedicated mortiser so that is a problem I don't have to deal with.

[Casey Mabry]

Thanks for all the responses guys, you have pretty much reinforced what I was thinking. 2 more quick questions-
1. what is the difference between the threaded shaft depth stop and the clutch type?
2.I looked at the SC presses and the jet j17dpx early in my searches, what would be the best price for these, I live in WV so not too many stores to look into. The closest woodcraft store is about 2 hrs away.

[Cary Falk]

[QUOTE=Casey Mabry;1194992]Thanks for all the responses guys, you have pretty much reinforced what I was thinking. 2 more quick questions-
1. what is the difference between the threaded shaft depth stop and the clutch type?
QUOTE]

Clutch
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q297/caryincamas/jetdp.jpg



Threaded:
http://www.steelcitytoolworks.com/products/20520/20520_prodcall3.jpg

[Casey Mabry]

Does the threaded stop have an advantage?

[george wilson]

It isn't always possible to buy good old ex school shop machines.If you can,they are very good. I bought an American made Powermatic for my ex job some years ago. It has a belt guard that tips way up,and the belt is very easy to reach. It has a solid steel knurled 3" handle to loosen the motor with,and is a nice,simple,heavy machine. I wish I had it at home,because I am still using my 1963 Craftsman floor model DP. I bought it new. It cost $125.00 on sale in 1963. It has a huge speed range,since I also bought the center pulley attachment,too. It is only good for about 1/2" holes in steel.

I need to find a more powerful drill press that I can drill large holes in steel with. Any large holes I have to drill right not,I'd have to do with my 16" metal lathe,and that's not always the most convenient if the piece of metal weighs a lot. I'll hold out for a good old 20" metal drilling drill press.

[Cary Falk]

Does the threaded stop have an advantage?

Some people say they are easier to set. I have always had better luck with the threaded rod type. To each his own.

[Paul Ryan]

Casey,

I paid $479 shipped liftgate to my door for the jet JDP-17DX from www.toolzone.com (http://www.toolzone.com) . There are advertiser here. I ordered on a monday night and it was here friday afternoon. They had a free shipping deal running at that time. Sometimes you can find free shipping on large items from toolking as well. If you buy it from woodcraft it will cost a lot more due to their $75 shipping charge. The SC was going to run $499 from my local store plus tax. So about $50 more. In the end it wasn't the $$ I just liked the Jet better.

[Art Kelly]

1. what is the difference between the threaded shaft depth stop and the clutch type?

My Craftsman #315.219140 has the "clutch" type depth stop. It can be used as a stop, or to lock the bit at a preset depth--handy if you're doing milling or routing type operations.

Art