Installing lamiate quarter-round moulding-Help!

[Jeff Cord]

Sorry for this slightly off-topic question but I'm sure there are people here that can help me out.
I've just installed a laminate floor (laminate on an mdf base) and am starting to install some matching quarter-round moulding.
Using my PC 18-gauge brad nailer I experimented with some 1 1/2" brads.
The problem is that it appears the brads are "exploding" the surface and finish on the moulding.
Rather than a clean hole made by the brad the hole looks very messy and area around the hold is torn up.
Can anyone provide any guidance on how to get a cleaner hole?
thanks,
jeff

[Bill White]

Any pics available? What air pressure are ya usin'? :confused:
Bill

[Brian Walter]

I seem to recall reading once that you can try nailing through a piece of cardboard, like a cracker box. I haven't tried it, but it might be worth a try. FWIW, I had the same problem and simply filled the resulting hole with one of those wax crayon type sticks that come in various colors. From a standing position it looks fine, if you were down on your hands and knees playing with the kids it might not look quite so good.

Brian Walter

[Steve Clardy]

What is the depth setting on the gun?

Try backing it off till the brad is just past flush

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Air setting? You may have the gun dialed up too high. All you need is to bury the head. Having too much pressure, and the piston hitting the bumper on the inside of the gun is not good for it. You want the nail to slow the piston down, not the bumper.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,
Pick up two things:
- a 23 ga pin nailer. 1" is plenty for what you're doing w/some adhesive.
- Loctite Power Grab adhesive.

While the PG itself is enough to hold the molding, an occasional pin might be needed for any bows or bellys.

23 ga pin nailers fire above the surface so there's virtually no hammer mark/hammer impact on the substrate.

Dialing down the pressure is probably going to leave the brads proud & still result in a "shattered" finish on the trim.
(been there/done that)
The problem is the trim itself. Even predrilling it & driving a nail by hand can sometimes screw up the surface.
BTW - once you've used a 23 ga pinner, the 18 ga is going to gather a lot of dust.
Remarkable tool.
I never realized how good they were until I bought one.
I had some very thin/narrow trim to install & the 18 ga was "too much" for it. I picked up a 23 ga PC from Amazon for ~ $100.00 and haven't looked back since.

[Chip Lindley]

I ordered PERGO trim to edge the flooring I just laid, but took back the expensive stuff! It's much wider than it has to be, especially edging a carpeted area. I made my own oak trim, and stained/polyurethaned to match. PERGO's stair nose kit is also an expensive joke! I made solid oak bullnose rabbeted to receive the edge of the flooring used as stair treads. Attached with RooGlue and long 18ga. brad nails. It really looks spiffy!

[Greg Cole]

If the trim is made of an MDF backer like the flooring, MDF is prone to swelling around fasteners.
Rich has ya on the right path with a pinner & adhesive.

[Don Bullock]

I installed "oak" laminate in several rooms of our new house. Instead of buying the matching quarter round I stained oak quarter round to match. It looks much better and I didn't have any difficulty with my brad nailer.

[John Callahan]

+1 to what Rich said.

[bill mullin]

The adhesive idea is fine... until you want to replace the floor or repair a section up against the wall. Good luck getting the shoe mold off in one piece. I'd recommend against it.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello Bill,

Good luck getting the shoe mold off in one piece
Power Grab cuts pretty easy w/a single edge razor blade and/or a honed putty knife.
Plus, it's not like you need to gob it on.
(PG ain't your daddy's "liquid nails")

A very thin bead is all you need.

Good stuff.