Table saw blades

[Mike Cruz]

Okay, I kinda need an answer fairly quickly for this because I am leaving in a few hours to go to the local borg for a few items and need to know:

Is there really THAT much difference between, say a Freud combination saw blade (Diablo...$50), Freud high/highest line combo blade...$69, and what the borg sells (Ridgid combo blade...$40)?

I'm sure there IS a difference, I just want to know if it really matters. Yes, I like a smooth cut, minimum tearout, and longevity. But I hate waiting for shipping to get the Freud...but if it makes THAT much difference I might wait.

The trouble is, I have a gloat to post soon, and I really want to get this blade on, up and running before posting. :D :D :D You don't understand how I CAN'T WAIT to post this gloat... You couldn't wipe the smile off my face with a belt sander right now...as long as all goes well! :eek:

[Jeff Willard]

One difference you'll probably find is that a manufacturers flagship line of blades will (generally) have more carbide in the tooth than a budget blade, allowing for more sharpenings. As for the quality of cut between them, I can't speak with any authority, as I've never done any side-by-side comparisons. I have Freud blades, and they're acceptable. But I favor Amana.

[Lee Schierer]

I can't speak for the Rigid blades, but, I've been very happy with my Freud Blades. I use an LU82M on my 10" saw and get crosscuts that are almost so smooth that no sanding is required. It also does a decent job of ripping 3/4" stock, though not as fast as my dedicated rip blade. Best of all you can get this blade for $39.95 from Rocklers and the shipping is free.

[Mike Cruz]

Thanks, gentlemen. I hate to admit it, but I am the first to do so...I am lazy. I hate changing blades. I know and understand why there are different blades for different applications, I just know that every moment spent changing a blade is time away from "getting it done". That does not mean that I rush though, but when I have a limited time to get stuff done, and have to keep changing blades for different kinds of cuts, well, then I get impatient and tend to start rushing...not a good idea. SO, that is why I have always used combo blades. They "work" for me and my style. Do they give the BEST rip, no. The BEST cross-cut, no. But pretty nice both.

Thanks for answering so quickly. I probably have another 1/2 hour before I've gotta get outta here. But I will entertain the advice of those who know best on this subject well after the next 1/2 hour.

Please, all input is welcome. Especially if you have used the Ridgid combo and had problems with it!

[Prashun Patel]

I think all 3 of the blades you mentioned are pretty good. I'll throw one more into the mix:

Freud Avantil 50t combo. $34 at LWS. I LOVE this blade.

I think the better blades might save you time in some cases. On rips, a good blade can allow you to go straight to glueup from the saw. A 'lesser' blade might require minor cleanup. It will also dull slower.

Personally, I think it's more critical on a crosscut blade, since here the issue is tearout, and is sometimes not 'fixable'.

I'm a proponent of 2 blades though: the Avanti 50t combo and a cheaper (BORG) ripping blade have served me well.

[Tom Walz]

As much difference as the difference in woods in and between species. As much difference as the difference in machines.

In some tool companies, such as mine, the only real standard of quality is customer satisfaction. W. Edwards Deming said that quality is exactly what the customer says it is.

However the Forrest and Freud are the two most popular hobby blades and you probably don’t need anything else. Ridgid are typically better made and much more consistent in quality of manufacture. Forrest has a special hobby grind for clean cuts. Ridgid will give clean cuts and be better for extended cutting.

Whether you want plastic of some sort on the side is your call. It has to come off if the blade is to be hammered and tensioned as part of servicing.

If you really get into it there are at least six kinds of steel, a dozen kinds of carbide, five kinds of braze alloy, a couple dozen kinds of diamond sharpening wheels and a couple dozen kinds of sharpening machines. They all make a difference.

Then you add the human factor, which is huge. There is a story being told in the industry about one famous company that is now being run by two brothers. They are fighting and they play tug of war with the specifications. Sometimes the plugs are copper, sometimes lead and sometimes missing. Sometimes the teeth are not ground, sometimes ground on one side and some times over ground so the teeth actually fracture from excess heat and pressure.

There is another huge tool company that has just been bought out by a huger company that didn’t need it. Nobody knows what will happen to it except that the word is to increase profits.

Buy what looks good and make some test cuts. If it doesn’t work to your satisfaction take it back. If you run into problems let me know and I’ll do an analysis for you so you can prove that it is defective.

Darn fine question, by the way.

Tom

[Matt Day]

One thing I noted when I was in Lowes looking at blades (I didn't end up getting one) is that I couldn't find a full kerf blade. I wanted a full kerf that would give me a square cut at the bottom of the cut (4 plus 1, or FT) but couldn't even find the full kerf let alone a flat bottom tooth pattern!

I did just order an Oshlun 50t combo blade for $30, so we'll see how that performs.

[Rod Sheridan]

Mike, I always buy premium blades, as it's the blade that's in contact with the wood.

Whether you're driving the blade with a $50 tablesaw or an Altendorf, it's the blade precision and quality that makes a large diference in the finished cut.

I always buy blades and cutters from a tooling supplier, the industrial saw blades are better quality and less expensive than comparable products at the Borg, or the Borg simply don't have a comparable blade.

Look up saw sharpening/manufacturers in your area and see what they have for sale.....Regards, Rod.

[Paul Ryan]

I have a freud diablo thin kerf 40t all purpose $35 blade that I bough from the borg 2 years ago. I also have a forest WWII 40t and a systimatic 50t all purpose. To be honest they all cut the same. I get glue ready edges on all rips. The freud tends to tear out slightly in plywood on some occasions maybe because it is duller than the other 2. I bought the systimatic to replace the freud and the WWII to replace the systimatic when being sharpend. Turns out I really only need 1 blade. But the carbide on the WWII is twice as large as the freud and the carbide on the systimatic about 25% larger than the WWII. If I was going to buy another blade again it would be another systimatic. It will last longer than I will at the rate I use it. And I hear a good cleaning will make sharpening very rare.

If I was going to do tons of ripping, and then all cross cutting, and so on I would buy individual blades, but the all purpose work real good for what I do and I don't have to change very often. I usually put in a 60t whan cutting plywood just because it does a better job than the other blades. Changing blades on my SS take seconds because the insert it tool less and the arbor nut is a 2 wrench set up. What takes time is setting up the dado to the proper width.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I own about thirty (just counting the quality ones) blades. Despite owning a couple of Forrest WWII's, the go to blade on my TS is a DeWalt / Delta 7657, which I picked up on clearance at Lowes a couple years back for $14.99. Bought every one they had (five.) I also own Freud Glue line Rip, and a LU84R combo blade.