Best method of attaching shelf to tapered leg?

[Brian Penning]

Looking for the best method of attaching a shelf to the tapered legs of a coffee table.
Notch in the legs? This way the shelf corners can be left as is. If so, how?
Cut a notch in the shelf to wrap around the adjacent sides of the legs? Then I can the taper angles to be concerned with, no?
For what it’s worth I’m making the shelf out of veneered ply and wrapping it with an inch or so of hardwood.
I’m also interested in how the shelf is secured to the legs.
Thanks in advance to any and all replies.

Added photos of dry-fitted assys

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_eDYZqM9-MJw/SoRnb_dHyqI/AAAAAAAAKAU/P36g7PFcxGs/s512/IMG_3842.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_eDYZqM9-MJw/SoRncDRbooI/AAAAAAAAKAY/D6JaqFpn1LY/s512/IMG_3843.JPG

[Prashun Patel]

Can you Bevel the shelf edge to match the taper?

The couple times I've done tapers, I cheat: I either start them below the shelf/stretcher line, or I taper the outside faces, so the inner faces can remain square to each other.

[Chris Tsutsui]

I like the idea of putting a notch into a tapered leg though I've never had to do this before...

I will assume the legs are tapered on all 4 sides since that would be the hardest to work with.

I would put a wedge under the tapered part to make it so you can cut straight down with a hollow chisel mortiser at the right angle.

Once the wedge is adjusted on one, you can mark all the legs on where the location of that wedge is so the notch will be the same on all legs.

If I didn't have a holow chisel mortiser I would use a forstner bit on a drill press, then finish off with a chisel perhaps.

[Frank Drew]

I will assume the legs are tapered on all 4 sides since that would be the hardest to work with.



Usually the taper is only on the two inside faces.

I agree that notching is the best approach and is mildly fussy work but not enormously difficult; a fine crosscutting saw and a chisel is all you need. The notch and matching profile on the shelf often has a shallow straight section then a 45 degree bevel and finally another straight bit (say, 1/8" or so). I'm sure there's a sketch online somewhere (to compensate for my inability to post a drawing).

[Danny Hamsley]

Next time you might consider cutting the slot for the shelf using a dado on the tablesaw before you taper the leg. Then after you tapeer the leg, you have a perfect slot for the shelf.

The other option is to taper the leg below the point of shelf attachment, but that depends on the style and look that you are seeking.

[John Schreiber]

If you bevel the shelf edge to match the taper, how do you join the shelf to the leg? If I am understanding, it would just be the glue holding it in place with no mechanical connection. Do you also use a blind dowel or something similar?

[Prashun Patel]

Yup, yr right. You'd need to dowel it or something.

[John Thompson]

If you already have tapered the legs.. a bridle joint (what you're calling a notch) is the best route IMO. Actually it will give more glue area than a M & T. But.. I agree with Danny that it is much easier to cut either a bridle or M & T in the face before you taper.

You ask how... mortice machine.. mortising chisels.. router.. slot morticer.. pick your poison if I understand the question correctly.

Good luck...

[Sherzod Niazov]

Looking for the best method of attaching a shelf to the tapered legs of a coffee table.
Notch in the legs? This way the shelf corners can be left as is. If so, how?
Cut a notch in the shelf to wrap around the adjacent sides of the legs? Then I can the taper angles to be concerned with, no?
For what it’s worth I’m making the shelf out of veneered ply and wrapping it with an inch or so of hardwood.
I’m also interested in how the shelf is secured to the legs.
Thanks in advance to any and all replies.

Added photos of dry-fitted assys

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_eDYZqM9-MJw/SoRnb_dHyqI/AAAAAAAAKAU/P36g7PFcxGs/s512/IMG_3842.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_eDYZqM9-MJw/SoRncDRbooI/AAAAAAAAKAY/D6JaqFpn1LY/s512/IMG_3843.JPG



Brian, I've had a few projects where I needed to join shelves to either tapered or cabriole legs. I made a small notch/shallow mortise maybe 1/16” – 1/8” in the legs, and drove a pocket hole screw underneath. It has held up very well over the past few years.

Have fun.

[Doug Shepard]

I've used short (~ 1/2") mortise and tenons on the long sides and they dont appear to be going anywhere. These were done with a benchtop mortiser but I've done them with a router too.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showpost.php?p=136454&postcount=1

[Jerry Olexa]

I'd go M/T for strength.. Several ways to do as above

[Chris Tsutsui]

I didn't realize you had the legs attached to the aprons already. This makes it difficult to modify the legs.

If that were mine, I'd just use pocket screws in the bottom of the shelf. (They will be hidden afterall...) Cut a square cutout from each corner of the shelf and make sure the cut is beveled to match the angle of the tapered leg.

I'd try to use a table saw and stop block to make repeatable notch cuts.

[Matt Meiser]

I asked a similar question a few years ago. The suggestion I went with was to add a small on each side. Its set back from the edge of the shelf and fairly invisible. The shelf sits on the stretchers and is attached with screws in slots so that wood movement doesn't become an issue.