advice needed for filler and finish for furniture made of Ash

[Erik Frederiksen]

Hi,

I just built a small table to hold a turntable and amp. There's a few gaps in some the joints (around 1/32") that I would like to fill. In the past I've used WEST System epoxy mixed with thickeners and Ash sawdust with okay results. Does anyone here have a solution they have found that works really well?

My second question has to do with the finish. I don't know much about furniture finishing. I would like something that would look as natural as possible. What have you found to be the best finish that takes a reasonable amount of time and doesn't require lots of experience or spray equipment to apply?

Thanks,
Erik

[Scott Holmes]

A turn-table, wow that brings back memories.

There are better ways to fill than epoxy and sawdust.

Do you plan to stain the wood? Ash stains very well.

What look and feel do you want? Sounds as if you like gloss.

Wipe-on varnish is almost foolproof... make your own; mix varnish and mineral spirits about 50/50 and you just made your own.

[Erik Frederiksen]

I had not planned on staining the wood. I don't think I want glossy, I want to change the look and feel of the natural wood as little as possible.

Sooo, Scott, what are these ways of filling wood that are better?

[Scott Holmes]

Well if you are not staining then you limit what can be done... I was think about adding color to the filler, then adding it to the wood.

For an very natural in the wood finish you could use an oil/varnish blend or a few wipe coats of varnish.

[Erik Frederiksen]

Thanks for your replies Scott. What filler do you recommend?

[Scott Holmes]

To keep it light, I'd use super blonde shellac. Brush on 3-4 coats and then sand or scrape it back to leave the shellac in the grain only.. You now have a hard, optically clear, color stabile, filler that has proved it's longevity.

[Erik Frederiksen]

Hi, Here are some pictures, I ended up using Famowood filler and tung oil

http://gallery.mac.com/erikfsn/100037/010502/web.jpg?ver=12504674250001
http://gallery.mac.com/erikfsn/100037/010503/web.jpg?ver=12504674230001
http://gallery.mac.com/erikfsn/100037/010505/web.jpg?ver=12504674270001
http://gallery.mac.com/erikfsn/100037/010506/web.jpg?ver=12504674210001

I used a Bosch jigsaw to make the mortise and tenons, have to get a little more high tech. Looking at the Leigh FMT and also the D4R.

Erik

[Scott Holmes]

Very nicely done. Which brand of "Tung oil" did you use?

[Erik Frederiksen]

Thanks Scott, the brand of tung oil is ZAR semi-gloss. I like it, but I don't have anything comparable to compare it to as it's the first wipe-on finish I've ever tried.

[Scott Holmes]

Just as I suspected... You used a wiping varnish, not tung oil. It is a varnish that was made from tung oil then mixed with another (urethane resin) varnish and MS.

Many "tung oil" finishes are not even made with varnish that was made from tung oil. You picked a good one. It will be a lasting finish.

If it had be true tung oil it would not have built up to give you as much shine, and it would have required contuniual renewal.

ZAR Tung Oil Semi-Gloss Wipe-On Finish
Non-Volatile: Tung Oil Varnish ...............................................21. 9%
Polyurethane Resin............................................. .7.3%
Additives .................................................. ...........1.2%
Volatile: Aliphatic Hydrocarbon Solvents..........................69.6%
______
100.0%

You can make your own wiping varnish using a quality varnish and mineral spirits.
Note yours would be 50% MS theirs is just under 70% MS. It will save you money too

Again... Nice job!