Stanley #40 variations

[Richard Dooling]

I’ve been strongly considering a Stanley #40 but have not found one to my liking on price. I am looking at one now but I am curious about the two fundamental body style variations and what folks think is or is not important here. The earlier planes do not have the rib directly behind the cap screw, and at least in theory, this rib would seem to be a very good redesign. It should minimize blade distortion but I’m not finding any sort of universal condemnation of the earlier design. I know all too well though that what seems like a big deal on paper may mean little in the real world.

So - a significant improvement or a nice to have or a big-bunch-o-nuttin?

.

[Jim Koepke]

Did you look at Patrick Leach's Blood & Gore?

He explains the mechanics behind the change.

jim

[Richard Dooling]

Hey Jim,

I have looked at Mr. Blood and Gore - what a generous resource.

While he cites the improvement, he does not comment on whether or not it is a real world improvement. I am curious about what other user’s experiences are. This particular plane is also equipped with a St. James Bay replacement blade and that looks like a very nice piece of steel.

So I guess the main issue would be chatter? Blade distortion on this particular plane would seem to be a non-player. This is not a smoother after all.

Yes – no??

.

[Jim Koepke]

My way of looking at it is the second design lessens stress placed on the blade.

Less stress is better in my way of looking at things.

Another thought on my way of looking at things is a scrub plane might be a nice specialty plane. I have not run into much rough cut lumber here in the west to warrant owning one. If one was needed, one of my #6s or a new #5 might be converted to a scrub plane. If that made me really want the real deal, then it would be considered.

jim

[Richard Niemiec]

If one was needed, one of my #6s or a new #5 might be converted to a scrub plane.
jim

Years ago I took a surplus #5 and reground a convex edge on the blade, pulled the frog back to open up the mouth, and it made a very serviceable scrub. A little heavy, but functional. I've thought of taking another iron for my #5 1/4 and grinding it convex and using that one the same way. I only dimension lumber by hand that is too wide for my DJ-20 when I don't want to slice the board in two. Happens about every year or so, but when it does I'm glad to have the #5 scrub.

rn

[harry strasil]

I do like the old timers did and use my jack for a scrub.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/scrubplane02.jpg

Then I found an old woodie to convert to a scrub.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/scrubplane01.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/scrubplane03.jpg

[Richard Niemiec]

Then I found an old woodie to convert to a scrub.


Harry, you got something there. Woodies are lighter than my #5; next time I find an orphan with an iron that's got some life at the flea I'm taking it home for a scrub. #40s are nice, and we all know why we like them, but after all, its a scrub.....

RN

PS: Thicker irons in woodies would be a plus as well.