Finishing Poplar Desk/Drawers

[Chris Burgbacher]

First off let me say that I'm very new to woodworking. I've just finished building a desk from poplar/poplar ply. I want to paint the desk to match some other furniture. The recommendations I've found online call for 2 coats oil-based primer (Zinsser Cover Stain Oil Base) followed by 2 coats of acrylic enamel paint.

Is this the best way to paint the desk? I don't have the money or room for a sprayer so any finishing will have to be done with a brush/roller.

Also, I've constructed drawers from Baltic birch ply. I plan to finish these with Zinsser Bullseye Shellac. Is this the best way to protect the drawers without leaving having them smell?

Thanks to anyone who responds. Sawmill Creek has been a great resource to use while building the desk.

[Scott Holmes]

Acrylic enamel will work well. Brush or roller is fine. You may want to thin it a bit so it will flow out smooth. Read the label to see what thinner is used; could be MS or paint thinner if it's oil based; or water if it's a water-borne finish.

Yes shellac is the best finish to use inside drawers and cabinet that you don't want long lingering fumes.

[Todd Carpenter]

Hi Chris,

I agree with J., except on the thining part for water based. Adding water to that will actually speed up your drying time, you're better off adding some flo-trol to it get it to flow out better. Also with water base, don't work it too much, if you can, one stroke to lay it on, and a final one to either tip it off, or lap it off. If you roll it - which may be the best way - don't be tempted to roll it too much - people tend to think they've rolled it on too thick and keep going over it to thin it out - then it doesn't flow out and looks more like orange peel than paint, patience is the key when working with latex...

HTH
Todd

[Scott Holmes]

Orange peel look would come from too thick a film finish...
Over working it will make more like sand paper or the moon (craters & ridges)

[Rob Cunningham]

I like to use Zinsser BIN primer. It's a pigmented shellac primer. Dries quick and sands great.
For paint, Benjamin Moore Waterborne Impervo is a good quality paint but is only available in a satin sheen. Muralo Ultra Waterborne is another paint that I've used that I'm very happy with. It's available in all sheens. Both paints are acrylic enamel which will dry to a tough surface.
Shellac is fine for the drawers.

[Chris Burgbacher]

Thanks for all the responses

[johnny means]

In my experience acrylic paint has the tendency to stick to everything and is to soft for even a light duty work surface (I've seen this over the course of several years making childrens furniture). Oil based enamels give a much more durable finish that doesn't retain the tendency to block (stick).

Oil is also more forgiving for the inexperienced finishers tecnique. You would have much more open time to smooth out or clean up any mistakes.

[Chris Burgbacher]

What if I use an acrylic enamel and then cover with polyurethane? Will that improve the durability?

[Prashun Patel]

You might get a harder surface with an oil based enamel. I'd thin it 10% with mineral spirits. I'd also apply it with a low nap roller.

You can certainly apply polyurethane over paint, but it has to cure first. Also, you risk getting some yellowing. I used Cabots waterbased polyurethane over acrylic enamel and the whole thing turned ghastly yellow. Perhaps it was just me, though.

I think shellac on the insides of drawers is a fine choice.

[Todd Carpenter]

Hi Chris,

In addition to wood working, I'm also a model airplane weenie. One of the finishing techniques we use is water base poly over cheap craft paints. You can get some very nice finishes this way that are fairly tough for our flying conditions - most of us are using the minwax water based stuff and it stays crystal clear - I've never used the Cabot so I would believe Shawn.

Our finishes stand up to quite a bit, rough landingings (some higher speed than others), hanger rash etc., but - I have to admit, the abuse they take is going to be different than the abuse a desk is going to get, so I can't vouch for it's durability on a desk, but I do think it would be a bit tougher than just paint alone.

HTH
Todd

[Jerry Olexa]

shellac for the drawers is a dood decision...

[Scott Holmes]

A good oil based enamel will out perform most acrylics in the durablity test; it will out perform a poly.

[Chris Burgbacher]

Can anyone recommend a good brand of oil-based enamel? From most of the responses that seems to be the best option.

Also, has anyone used Zinsser Primecoat2 on poplar? I've heard it works well and at the BORG it's about 2/3 the cost of Cover Stain.

[Prashun Patel]

Personally, I'd use Zinsser BIN primer on the wood. It's cheap, seals well, dries fast, and sands smooth.

I've used Benjamin Moore Impervo to good effect. But on my next project requiring such, I'm going to try Sherwin Williams Proclassic Alkyd Enamel.

A lot of people around this forum (incl pro's) seem to really like the SWProclassic line.