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Phyllis Rhodes
08-09-2009, 4:33 PM
i need help (always) with this photo. i've already made 3 plaques (flexibrass on walnut) with this guy on it over the last couple of years, but i'm just not happy with the photo. i've got until february, 2010, so i figured i'd start now! :)

i've read and done so many different things to this poor photo, and i don't like the way any of them come out.

i keep thinking: is the photo good and my settings off?
or: have i done something wrong to the photo and my settings are fine?

i've got a 45w epilog and running 100 speed and 45 power (most of the time). i've tried everything from 150 to 600 dpi. most of these were run at 300dpi.

so..... can y'all take a look and let me know what you think? any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

phyllis

Steve Clarkson
08-09-2009, 4:48 PM
I'm no expert, but it looks like your issue is shadows.....too light on the left, too dark on the right.

Phyllis Rhodes
08-09-2009, 4:54 PM
here's the original photo. it's actually a .tif file, but i had to convert it to upload here.

Dan Hintz
08-09-2009, 7:29 PM
The image's dynamic range is quite small... that's why you always appear to swing to one extreme or the other. You need to increase the dynamic range and reburn.

Roy Brewer
08-11-2009, 1:50 AM
: is the photo good and my settings off? or: have i done something wrong to the photo and my settings are fine?Phyllis,

First thing I'd do on this is knock out the background; it confuses your portrait.

Next, are you using PhotoGraV? If not, are you using CorelDRAW's error diffusion or your print driver's error diffusion?

Phyllis Rhodes
08-13-2009, 9:00 PM
My 3 yr old version of PhotoGrav doesn't work with my new 64-bit system.. and I can't afford to upgrade right now. i'm using Corel's error diffusion. i've tried jarvis, stucki, and f-s at anywhere between 75-100% intensity.

Bill Cunningham
08-13-2009, 10:55 PM
Does the 64bt system not have a 'compatibility' feature where you can run older software in xp or even 98 mode... Right click the desktop icon, and under 'properties' there may be a compatibility choice..

Roy Brewer
08-14-2009, 1:20 AM
i'm using Corel's error diffusion. i've tried jarvis, stucki, and f-s at anywhere between 75-100% intensity.Phylis,

Sounds like, then, that you're doing all you can do with what you have. Are you comfortable removing the background? If yes, I suspect that will make a huge difference in the overall appearance of that photo.

Dan Hintz
08-14-2009, 8:45 AM
I'm with Bill... since PhotoGrav doesn't do the printing or use any OS-specific graphics calls, you should have no problem running it in 32-bit compatibility mode. Right click the executable and select Properties. Click on the "Compatibility" tab and check the appropriate box. Select the proper pull-down item (probably XP mode) and you should be golden.

Phyllis Rhodes
08-14-2009, 3:40 PM
i don't think it's an issue of Vista running PhotoGrav but rather PhotoGrav wanting to run on Vista.

i have plenty of 32 bit programs i am running just fine.

i've removed the background. i'll play more and see what happens.

thanks everybody

Roy Brewer
08-16-2009, 1:42 PM
i'll play more and see what happens.Phyllis,
One other potential solution, can you consider AlumaMark?
Your initial post specified flexibrass and I understand that you might not be able to change that. Flexibrass, however, only has 3 "shades": black/Gold and that "mucklededone" silver that seems to create a "not so complimentary" shadow in a photograph where the laser's lowest intensity removes the gold dye, but desn't get to the black.

AlumaMark, however, seems to provide between 150 & 200 different responses to the laserbeam and therefore provides a lot more "warmth" to most photographs.

Ron Hamilton
08-20-2009, 2:28 AM
Hi Phyllis.
Try this......

Ron...

Dan Hintz
08-20-2009, 8:26 AM
Forgot something, did we Ron? :confused:

Frank Corker
08-20-2009, 12:06 PM
lol I thought that too. I wonder what he was going to upload!

Bill Cunningham
08-20-2009, 10:12 PM
I have found that when etching photos onto Alumamark, Back off your focus about 1/8" don't use 600 dpi for photos, or the photograv recommendations for power and speed (there never right) and it seems to muddy up the results. Use 300 dpi, and the cherry photograv dither..The photo greyscale may have to be a bit lighter than you would use on wood, so test on small pieces until you get the speed/power right for the shading on your photo. Start at 30 power/ 10 speed.. The backing off of your focus could be the most important part.. I find this method works equally well with silver or gold Alumamark for photos..

Martin Boekers
08-21-2009, 12:46 PM
Phyllis,

Does it have to be lasered?

Maybe a transfer is better suited for this.

Dye sub onto gold metal

or if your not set up for that Magic Touch USA carries a transfer paper that works well with most laser printers or copiers. The all you need is a heat press to do the transfer to metal.

Just some other thoughts,


Martyu