Tearout on bottom edge using a handsaw

[Eben Fourie]

Neanders,

I am getting significant tearout on the bottom edge when using a handsaw to crosscut some 2x4 rough timber (SA Pine).

The saw is an el cheapo Stanley 22 inch, 8 PTS. Looks like it is sharpened more for rip than crosscut.

First pic is normal sawing, significant tearout along the bottom edge.

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn127/ebfourie/woodworking_techniques/IMGP0495.jpg

Second pic is same saw, using a marking knife, and scoring lines on all 4 sides before cutting. I have also tried using masking tape, and do not see a major difference.

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn127/ebfourie/woodworking_techniques/IMGP0496.jpg

So, is this:

a) technique issue
b) the way the saw is sharpened
c) something else ?

Are there any other ways to avoid tearout (than using a sharp marking knife) ?

Thanks in advance,
Eben

[phil harold]

You could clamp a sacrificial board to the bottom to reduce tear out

[Richard Magbanua]

Like Phil said, a sacrificial board is good. Maybe cut in a bit from one side and then finish from the other? I think you seemed to solve your problem with scoring it first. However, I wouldn't ask too much from your saw. Seems to me that you would use your coarse saw to break down your stock to rough length, then use your finer crosscut to cut to final length and then shoot it to fit. Sure, it could be better, but I'm not sure that much tear-out at that stage would bother me much.

[Eric Brown]

A pull style saw works well with softwoods.
Another option to using a backer board is to use a miter saw setup.
You can make this as simple as a shooting board.
A lot of tearout is caused by not supporting the cutoff piece fully.
Like sharp plane blades and chisels, a sharp saw helps a lot too.

Eric

[Gary Herrmann]

Maybe I've also got bad technique and dull saws, but I don't think you can ever eliminate the tearout completely. However, a plane will get rid of it after you cut.

[Jim Koepke]

Teeth per inch, the sharpness of the saw, the way the teeth are filed and the set of the teeth all come into play.

If a smooth cut is wanted I tend to use one of my pull saws or one of my western saws with a high tooth count and light set.

Scoring all the way around helps as does a backup board.

Most often a little bit extra is left to touch up with a block plane.

jim

[Bill Houghton]

You can also walk your cut all the way around the board:

1. Mark all around the board.
2. Start cutting normally on one face (wide side).
3. After a bit, when the far side of the cut is close to the opposite face, and you've got some kerf all the way across the face, bring the saw handle up until you're cutting on the far edge. Do that just until you've barely kerfed the opposite face.
4. Flip the board over and, using the kerf on the edge to guide you, start a cut on the second face. Finish cutting with this cut.

This is a variation of an old technique used in cutting tenons. It's probably more work than a sacrificial board would be, but less total cutting. It also can help you get a square cut, if your saw tends to wander from a true cut on the bottom of the cut.

The quality of your saw and its tooth configuration aren't helping either. Although whiskers are normal on the back side of an unsupported cut, these are pretty intense.

[george wilson]

That kind of pine has no structural strength in it. Sort of like balsa wood. That is why it tears so easily. Scoring seems to work,sacrificial backer board,etc.,all are good suggestions.