table top question

[ryan kelley]

I have searched and cannot find any info for a cabinet top design that I am interested building. What I want to do is glue three 1x6" maple boards together to give me the top then wrap that with 1x1 African Mahogany on three sides. My question is, is this possible considering wood movement. The top would be secured so the movement would be directed toward the back. If it is possible what is the best way to approach this, butt joints at the corners or will mitres work. I am really new to flat work and need the help with this.

[Russ Boyd]

I'm replying to your question just to get it back to the top, as it's a very good question and I know there are guys here that can answer it for you. Come on guys. Help him out.

[Myk Rian]

Give us a chance to wake up and read the messages. The thread started at 12:30 in the morning.

[Steve Jenkins]

Basically you are making a top with breadboard ends. You can miter the corners but the edgebanding on the ends should be applied with a pegged tenon and only glued at the front couple inches. That will allow the top to expand and contract as it will. Not putting the edgband on the back is smart to give the expanding top somewhere to go.

[George Bregar]

A slip dovetail will work also.

[Howard Acheson]

I am not quite sure what you are trying to do but, as a general statement, you must use an attachment method for your border that allows the center panel to freely expand and contract. In other words, you must use a sliding attachment.

Do you have a drawing or sketch you could post?

[David DeCristoforo]

While the "breadboard ends" technique mentioned by Howard and Steve would be the "ticket" for a top made from solid boards, this is a "perfect" application for veneer. With a veneered top, you can glue the "end caps" to the top with impunity. With a sliding or "breadboard" type of end cap on a solid top, there is always a chance that there will be noticeable "ridging" between the top and the end pieces and/or small gaps between the pieces. Also, if you use any type of finish other than a penetrating oil, you can pretty much bet that the finish "film" will "break" on the line between the top and the end caps.

[ryan kelley]

Thanks for the replies. If I were to go with the breadboard method how long would I have to make the tenon and if I go the sliding dovetail how long of a tail? As for the finish I was leaning towards a few coats of Danish oil then topped off with a couple coats of wax.

[Howard Acheson]

>> this is a "perfect" application for veneer

Yeah, I wholeheartedly agree. Really can't think of a good reason not to use it.

[Steve Jenkins]

I agree with the Veneer option. I personally hate breadboard ends on tables. I think that thay are like the stopped clock. Right twice a day. only in their case it's flush maybe twice a year for awhile. If I make the top from solid stock I will leave the endgrain showing and just sand them really well so they don't take the stain darker than the rest of the top.

[Mike Henderson]

Thanks for the replies. If I were to go with the breadboard method how long would I have to make the tenon and if I go the sliding dovetail how long of a tail? As for the finish I was leaning towards a few coats of Danish oil then topped off with a couple coats of wax.
Most people cut the mortise for breadboard ends with a slot cutter and most slot cutters will only cut 1/2" deep. So the tenon is made just a bit less than 1/2".

If your question about "how long to make the tenon" refers to the length along the wood, the answer is all of it except the last inch or so on each end. At least that's how I make mine.

I'll let someone else answer about the sliding dovetail. For me, the standard breadboard tenon and mortise slot is a lot easier than a sliding dovetail.

Veneer on an MDF substrate would be very stable but you'll have to learn veneering (if you don't already know how) and get some equipment to press it.

Mike

[Like Steve, I'm not a big fan of breadboard ends but sometime they're what the client wants, or they're called for by the style of furniture (Greene and Greene, for example).]