Let's talk about chainsaw chain sharpening

[Mike Stephens]

Let me start off by saying I have fallen in love with turning green wood. So much that I am having to spend my time leaning about things like chainsaw chains and how to sharpen them. Something I never really wanted to waste my time with, but now am almost forced into it.

My question for all you chainsaw wheeling creekers out there is, do you sharpen your own chains? I have been looking at an oregon electric chain sharpener and feel this may be the way to go. I like my tools sharp and I want them sharp all the time. Now I have 3 chains and always have at least 1 in for sharpening. I am finding this is costing me a lot of $ at $6.00 a pop.

Any feed back comments opinions would be very appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike

[Rick Prosser]

I manually sharpen my chainsaw chains. It was quick to learn, it only takes a few minutes, and I can do it when needed. After 3 or 4 (or 5-6) sharpenings, I usually have it done at the shop to get them back in shape.

[Steve Schlumpf]

I have a couple of the Oregon files and sharpen as needed. Like Rick mentioned - I like being able to sharpen while in the field but have to admit - the Oregon electric sharpener would be nice!

[Chris Stolicky]

I actually have an attachment for my dremel that works pretty good. Once you understand the angle to hold the file, it really isn't that difficult to do. I realized when I was learning to sharpen that for as long as a chain is, there is really only an actual tooth every couple of inched or so.

If I remember correctly, I think there was only like 12-13 teeth on my 16" saw.

[Greg Haugen]

Mike,

I have a Dremel attachment for sharpening my chainsaws. Here is a link to it on Amazon but I bought mine locally at either Menards or Home Depot.

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-1453-Chain-Sharpening-Attachment/dp/B0000302YO

It will take me a minute, maybe a minute and a half, to sharpen a chain. There are some "diamond" stones for it, I current use the standard "stones" that Dremel sells,they're very cheap and come in packs of 2-if I recall right. Each stone will sharpen quite a chains before it needs to be replaced.

The best of both worlds, this system on one of the standard size cordless dremels. Take it anywhere you want to go.

[Richard Bell CA]

I also use the Dremel attachment, except I use these diamond burrs.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=40928&cat=1,43072,43086

The advantage of diamond burrs is that they don't change diameter with wear like a regular stone. They do wear out when the diamond eventually debonds. I have two different saws that use a different tooth geometry. I use two of the dremel attachments, each adjusted for a specific saw, and swap them out on the same Dremel. I also bought a cheap 300W inverter form Amazon, so I can take the Dremel with me and plug it into the cigarette lighter for touch ups in the field.

Richard

[Steve Mawson]

I use a file. I always noticed that the shops that sharpen chain also sell chain so they make sure they file them pretty good which I suppose is good business.

[Scott Hackler]

I bought an electric sharpener at Harbor Freight ($40) on a hope that I didnt waste my money and let me tell you that it is great. Once you fine tune for each angle, repeating the rest of the links on the same angle is super easy and exact. I never used one before and after playing with it, I sharpened my first chain in less than 15 minutes. I think a hand file is fiine if your good at it, but the electric one puts a factory perfect grind on it, in a short time. And at $4-6 per sharpening, I will pay for this little tool in a couple seasons.

[tom benzinger]

Practice makes perfect. I use an angle gauge and sharpen by hand with very good results. Just make sure that you dont just sharpen the cutting surface, but file down the rakers using a depth gauge every 2-3 sharpenings to keep the chain cutting at its full potential.

[Jake Helmboldt]

Get a Husqvarna roller guide kit (in the right size for your saw chain). They cost about $10 and make hand filing super easy. You can use it anywhere, don't need electricity, doesn't take too much off the chain (which can cause the cut to pull to one side, not to mention use up your chain quicker), and is quicker than getting out the electric/dremel set up.

Also remember to file your rakers (and the roller guide has a guage plate for that too). I have several chains and when one needs freshening to get the teeth the same length I can take several to the shop and have them ground professionally. Unless you have a professional grinder you probably won't be able to control the cutter length any more accurately than by hand, so you'll have to take them to a pro at some point anyway.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Mike I have a attachment for my dremel tool that works slick but if I am out away from the shop I use a Granberg sharpener that I got from Bailey's. It works well out in the field.

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=15200&catID=9958

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I sharpen me chains by hand, with a file. It's faster than changing the blade in the field. Once you get the hang of it. I have not tried power sharpening but maybe I should. I got teh file holder/guide from the local BORG. The holder makes a lot of difference. Better than just a file handle, for some reason. Has those cool angle marks too. Oh, there's usually a "good" name brand sharpening kit and the generic kit. The file makes a huge difference, not so much the holder..... The no name file wears down pretty fast. The Oregon file is much better. Oh, I didn't mean to mention a brand name.

[Mike Stephens]

Thanks for all the replies. You'Ve all given me a lot to think about. I am still interested in the electric sharpener but may also do some research on a good file.

[Mike Stephens]

This is the unit I am looking at buying, except the 1 I may possibly buy is slightly used for $75.00.
http://www.amazon.com/Oregon-108181-Chain-Grinder-Sharpener/dp/B001HK1ZXI

[Reed Gray]

After 10 years of sharpening my own chains with the rat tailed file, it really isn't too difficult. Well, at least the guys who really know how to do it no longer laugh outright at my efforts. There is an angle guide on the tooth, just try to match it. Usually it only takes a few swipes with gentle pressure. I sharpen all the teeth on one side, then hit the other side. I do count the strokes to try to get the wear even. If you hit a nail or rock, you have to take a few extra passes. Use only a push stroke towards the outside of the tooth. Try to push in as straight of a line as possible to keep from rolling the tooth. Do wear gloves on your file hand at least. I have donated a fair amount of blood by slipping from pushing too hard, and grazing my knuckles across the freshly sharpened teeth. Your local saw shop will probably help you. After several sharpenings, you will have to lower the depth tooth inbetween the cutters, and of course, there is a handy guide and flat file for this. If you take it too far down, your saw will bog down. Every time you change the chain, flip the bar over, and de burr it. If it is too high, your saw will barely cut. Find some one to show you how. The saw companies also have videos on how to do all of this.

robo hippy

[Richard Madison]

I use a chain file with one end in cordless drill and other end held with scrap block of wood. Fast and easy, very brief learning curve. Note correct direction of drill rotation. Have used and worn out one of the little diamond sharpeners. They work well until worn out. Would use in drill, not Dremel. Lower speed better.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I used that style sharpener in my former days as a small engine mechanic. Can't remember who made it, but it was not Oregon. That is a really good sharpener, it keeps the chippers all at a uniform height. It did not shorten the guides though, you'll need to flat file those down.

How much do you cut? With that, you can sharpen and charge people the 6 bucks that you were paying. That's most likely what the sharpening service uses. Kinda pricey jump into saw sharpening. Clean all the junk out of the chippers before using that. The gum/sap/dust really packs into the wheel. Then you need to dress it out. Once set for the chain, it literally takes seconds to sharpen it.

[David Walser]

Nothing cuts quite like a chain that's been sharpened using a Tormek. Just a pass or two on each tooth, followed by honing on the leather wheel, any you're done. Chains sharpened the Tormek way cut more cleaner, cut faster, and last longer than chains sharpened with a dry file or grinder.

Note: I'm joking. I don't think it's possible to sharpen a chain on the Tormek. It's just that, whenever the subject of sharpening comes up, sooner or later some guy pops up spouting about the superior results from his Tormek. (I'm frequently that guy.) So, the thread just seemed to need a Tormek reference.

[Steve Clardy]

I've always just used a file and sharpened them in the field.
Takes some practice, but you can do it.
When you buy files, buy several, as they don't last long.
I buy my files by the box of 12, so I always have some in my chainsaw tool box.

[Gerold Griffin]

Found a picture of something close to what I have always used. Fast simple and accurate. I keep mine in a 50 cal ammo box along with a few tools, small grease gun for the roller on the bar, spare spark plug, etc. This works well since it is with me in the woods and I can sharper right there. The rakers I just hit with a flat file every so often.



Chain Saw Accessories
Filing & Sharpening
http://www.stihlusa.com/graphics/chainsaws/barmount_filing.gif

[Mike Stephens]

I will definitely invest in some sort of file system in the future. But for $75.00 I could not pass up the Oregon sharpener.

I will let all you crazy http://smilies.vidahost.com/ups/DeNiro/fight.gif chainsawing turners know how it works out for me.

Thanks,
Mike

[jim hedgpeth]

I have one like in Gerolds pic. It works well, in the field you don't have to worry about batteries (or inverters). Just lay the file in the tooth and gently push it through. If you push too hard it will catch.

It's also a lot quieter when you are taking a break and sharpening your saw.

Oh and make sure you use a real saw. A 32" 85cc should do:D.

Jim

[lynn smith]

Hey Mike,
You will find the grinder a great addition.
I use mine all the time, and I buy chain by the 100 ft roll about $250.
I cut bowl blanks as well as mill with my chainsaw mill.
When grinding chain you will want to grind on the conservative side.
You can turn a new chain into an old chain in just a couple of grinding sessions.
One other thing that I have found is that when you are grinding, grind your chains at less then 30 degrees, 25 degrees is a good angle. You will get greater longevity from the chain.
When grinding use a moderate bouncing motion with the grinder, instead of holding steady pressure on the grinder, this will keep the teeth from over heating.
You will also want to have a small mill file on hand to take the rakers down every couple of grinding sessions. 1 or 2 passes with the file and your good to go. You will notice that the file only works in one direction so you have to alternate the direction of the chain to get the file to cut.
Have fun, be extra careful now that you have sharp chains.
hey, maybe you already knew some of this.
Just wanted to put it out there.
Happy cutting.

[Rich Souchek]

Mke,
the best site I've found for chainsaws is the arboristsite dot com. There is a whole section on sharpening chains. I borrowed one of their bette4r ideas and bouth the Northern Tools knock-off of a suberb Italian made chain sharping grinder.
It works real good. Now I can keep at least 3 sharp chains for each of my chainsaws ready of use and this IS a big deal in milling tree trunks.
Rich S.

[Rasmus Petersen]

havent gotten one yet but this thing looks real nice for a guy like me that wants to saw and not spend time learning to sharpen chainsaws..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_1Tc9hIQz0

[Jeff Farris]

I use a chainsaw quite a bit, and struggled with hand filing, but couldn't ever seem to have enough chains around to depend on sending them out.

One guide that I haven't seen mentioned in this thread if the Pferd. It made all the difference in the world for me. In addition to filing the tooth, it automatically takes down the raker to match. Here's some info: http://www.pferdusa.com/products/201/20101/2010101P.html The guys from Logosol chainsaw mills turned me on to it. They sell them, though I don't remember seeing them on their site. Bailey's probably carries them, too. If you use a chainsaw, and you don't know about Bailey's....google them. They've got it all for the woods.

Got a giggle out of your post, David.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Got a giggle out of your post, David.


Is Tormek looking into a jig for a chainsaw? They have a jig for just about everything else...

If they do, I may consider buying it...:D

[Mike Stephens]

Is Tormek looking into a jig for a chainsaw? They have a jig for just about everything else...

If they do, I may consider buying it...:D


I heard they are. You'll soon be able to sharpen your chains on the Tormek for the low low price of $429.99.:D

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Ah. 429.99 is a LITTLE out of my price range.
$359, would be a good deal.:D

[Rich Aldrich]

I sharpen my chain by hand with a file, but I started cutting pulp for my family's business when I was 15 and cut for 5 summers. It is not the easiest thing to do, but it depends on how much you cut as to whether you need to sharpen very often. I also depends upon how much dirt you cut - dirt can really dull a chain fast.

One of the guys at the papermill bought one of these. It seems cheap, but he is happy with it.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200327451_200327451

The family business has an oregon, but it is at my cousin's house. Family businesses are sometimes a little wack. This tool could be in their shop, but ..... My cousin really likes it but he wont share and everyone is too proud to admit the tool can sharpen better than they can.

I can never sharpen a chain like the tool can - I have had my dealer sharpen a couple of chains for me and he does a good job ... or the tool does, anyway. He also has it set up well.

I still cut about 40 face cords per year to feed my outdoor boiler, so my Husqvarna gets a decent work out. A sharp chain is key.

[john l graham]

I ran a chainsaw for several years as a firefighter for the USFS. Always used the hand file and often. Just a couple of strokes in between cutting keeps the saw cutting at its best. Several others have mentioned all the other hints, filing rakers, keeping angle with your chain markings, pushing file to outside of cutting edge, wearing gloves and using a file handle. Be safe and keep that chain out of the dirt. John

[Mike Stephens]

Thanks for the reply. Having a sharp tool is always key. Turning has brought me down many avenues I never saw coming but now have to explore.

I will get there (baby steps). All of the support from all of you really helps a lot.

Thanks,
Mike

[Matt Ranum]

Make sure you get yourself some "Pro" chains. They stay sharper way longer and are not much more expensive. I get ours from Baileys(as mentioned earlier in this thread). The "Woodsman Pro" line. Made by Carlton here in the US and at about $8 a loop for an 18" bar its cheaper than the cheap stuff here locally.

[Mike Stephens]

Make sure you get yourself some "Pro" chains. They stay sharper way longer and are not much more expensive. I get ours from Baileys(as mentioned earlier in this thread). The "Woodsman Pro" line. Made by Carlton here in the US and at about $8 a loop for an 18" bar its cheaper than the cheap stuff here locally.


Thanks Matt I will definitely look into those chains.

[Mike Stephens]

Here is a link to a you tube video. This is not the sharpener that I bought but is very similar. Looks great. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=diLthZHGFy4

[curtis rosche]

they make carbide chainsaw blades that dont dull as quick. till you hit a rock

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Nice video. The guy is certainly slow. I'd have 10 chains done by then.... One thing, you shouldn't change the setting when you swap from the left to right chippers. The object, and strong point of that style sharpener, is all the chippers are the same height. If you change the setting, it changes the height. Also, I guess then I mean 2 things. He seems to take a LOT of metal off when he sharpens. All that is needed is a little sparks, and take away the minimum of metal.

A speed enhancement tip. Set the track to have a minimun amout of friction, and still be tight, then you won't have to tighten and untighten the track. Just pull on the chain when you sharpen the chipper, that keeps tension on the chain and it won't move. When you get your sharpener, that will make sense. Yeah, I guess it adds some error, but we're talking chainsaw. It's not a finish tool.

Just my .02.

[Mike Stephens]

Thanks Kyle I saw some videos after the 1 I posted. things you are right about him being slow and I saw the technique you were describing. I guess there was 3 things. He also seemed to me to be taking of way to much metal for just a sharpening.

[Jeff Rich]

I have learned that hand filing is a good way for me to sharpen my chains.
I have tried the Dremel bits and they seem to remove to much material.
I use the Oregon hand files and a file holder when the chain get really dull.
When filing by hand, usually a swipe or two is all that is needed.
You have to remember about every 3 sharpenings to file down the depth stops.
It works for me!

[Matt Ranum]

Well that sharpener is very similar to what I use but I can tell you one thing, that guy would NEVER touch one of my chains. You never ever have to grind like that, not only is he taking off an extremely large amount he's getting the teeth too hot and taking the temper out of it. There has to be burnt blue edges there. You set it up so the stone just kisses the tooth, all you need to do is to hone the edge. A few sparks are normal but thats ridiculous.


IMO of course.