miter saw blade on table saw

[dave pant]

I just want to know if there is any difference?

I have a 10" hitachi miter saw and a 12" table saw, currently I am using a 10" blade that i can interchange between the 2. Well now I been running into a problems needing a deeper cut. So I decided to get a new blade for it and want to get a 12" blade. However in my searching I found some blades that say miter saw right on them. Is there a difference between the 2? I was thinking of either the hitachi 12 or the frued diablo both 60 tooth. However both say miter saw on them.

Thanks,
Dave

[Dave Lehnert]

Blades for miter saws have a negative hook.

I did a quick search and found this info that may be helpful.

http://justsawblades.com/systimatic/terminology.htm

[Cody Colston]

Blades for miter saws have a negative hook.

They will work great for crosscuts on the TS but will make poor rip cuts...slow with burning likely in harder woods.

[John Thompson]

I am going to dis-agree somewhat about miter saw blades having to have a negative hook as stated by Just Saw Blades. I once thought that and I believe Charles from Freud told me different. Yes.. radial arm saws and SLIDING COMPOUND MITER SAWS need a negative hook (usually -5*) but.. standard miter saws don't even though the hook angle is usually lower but still positive.

In other words a standard ATB cross-cut would normally have about 18* degrees positive where a standard miter saw may have a lower around 8* or 10* which does lower the aggression of the cut but can be used on a TS even though not ideal for ripping with the grain. So.. just check the description of the hook angle on a potential 10" miter blade you want to use and make sure it has a 1" arbor which is most likely what your 12" TS has making it interchangeable.

Perhaps Charles from Freud will see this and comment...

[Howard Acheson]

>> Yes.. radial arm saws and SLIDING COMPOUND MITER SAWS need a negative hook (usually -5*) but.

I would argue with that. I have a RAS that was purchased in the early 1970's. There was no such thing as a "negative hook" blade at that time. Same with my first CMS. Both the RAS and the CMS will work just fine with the same blades you use for crosscutting on your table saw.

That said, a negative hook blade will generally cut smoother (abeit, slower) than a positive hook blade. And, it will tend to be less likely to "skate" or self feed across the wood.

To this day, my "always on the saw" blade for my RAS is a 50 tooth ATB&R combo blade.

[dave pant]

ok sooo as luck would have it in the deals and discounts there are avanti blades at HD on sale 2 for 1.

I called mine and they have them!

so im going to try the

Freud Avanti TK407 12" Finishing Saw Blade Premimum Thin Kerf Woodworking Saw Blade 80T with 1" arbor


sorry that was a cut and paste and its big =P.

Anyways, anyone see a problem with using that on my tablesaw?

Im doing furniture making mostly so crosscutting and ripping is both important with a clean edge.

However im not rich guy so Im trying to get the best bang for my buck without buying garbage.

thanks again guys i appreciate your input!

Dave

[Steve Leverich]

Dave, I hear your budget comments - just be aware that Avanti is Freud's LOW priced line, same as their router bits - I've not used them so can't comment on quality... Steve

[Robert Reece]

I have an Avanti 50T combo blade that I have had no problems with. It cuts fine although I can't attest to it's longevity. My guess is that Freud saved on the carbide quality.

However, I will tell you it was the easiest blade I have ever cleaned. Soaked in Simple Green for 10 minutes and the stuff practically fell off.

[John Thompson]

>> Yes.. radial arm saws and SLIDING COMPOUND MITER SAWS need a negative hook (usually -5*) but.

I would argue with that. I have a RAS that was purchased in the early 1970's. There was no such thing as a "negative hook" blade at that time. Same with my first CMS. Both the RAS and the CMS will work just fine with the same blades you use for crosscutting on your table saw.

That said, a negative hook blade will generally cut smoother (abeit, slower) than a positive hook blade. And, it will tend to be less likely to "skate" or self feed across the wood.

To this day, my "always on the saw" blade for my RAS is a 50 tooth ATB&R combo blade.

In lieu of argue Howard... I'll just drop the Need and say that is what most of the blade manufacturer's reccomend on a SCMS and RAS. And the way it was explained to me by Freud.. it has to do with your quote of:

" And, it will tend to be less likely to "skate" or self feed across the wood".

Which I am guessing has to do with a safety and liability thing from their view of the world. You would have to ask them really as Just Saw recommended a negative hook on miter without distinquishing just the SCMS and RAS as several manufacturers state? Go figure?

I will agree that they both will work fine as I am from the Old School as I suspect you are... but the new generation of WW appears to see things differently than what worked in the past. I say that based on post I see where a new TS extention Wing is dipped .005 in the center.. a rip varies .0036 over the length of a 36" long piece of stock on the fence as measured with a high tech device.... so send the machine back to get a replacement. ;)

Regards...

[Bruce Wrenn]

Dave, I hear your budget comments - just be aware that Avanti is Freud's LOW priced line, same as their router bits - I've not used them so can't comment on quality... SteveLook carefully at the label on these blades. Says "Avanti Pro, based in Atlanta." I didn't know that Freud moved from High Point NC to Atlanta. However, HD who is based in Atlanta is the only one selling these blades right now. Also, blades are made in China. I wonder if HD bought the rights to the Avanti Pro name from Bosch (remember Bosch bought Freud.)

[Myk Rian]

If you want the blades, go to HoPo and get them. For the price, you can't beat it. Chinese or not, Freud is a top name.

[scott spencer]

Dave - I've been a supporter of using high quality thin kerk blades on smaller saws for sometime, as I've had some excellent results with them. However, my positive experiences were with 10" blades, and have been mainly higher end selections. When the span grows from 10" to 12" and has the same thickness, I suspect the chance for deflection/vibration increases a lot, especially at the lower price ranges. I'd definitely lean towards a full kerf 12" blade for crosscuts in this case. While Freud makes some very nice blades, the ones mentioned aren't the long proven blades made in Italy AFAIK....I'm hearing rumor of some new Freud offerings out of China. As an alternative to a low cost thin kerf blade, Holbren has a 12" 80T full kerf Oshlun (http://www.holbren.com/oshlun-saw-blades/) (formerly Avenger) for ~ $45 shipped with the "CMS10" discount code. I have not tried this particular blade, but was favorably impressed with the build quality and performance of the 40T 10" Oshlun for the price.

Also, I think it's worth noting that sliding miter saws and radial arm saws benefit from a low to negative hook blade, but a straight compound miter saw is fine with a moderately positive hook angle...maybe up to 10° to 15°, though I'd hesitate to put anything steeper than that on a miter saw.

[Scott Schwake]

My 12" table saw has a 5/8" arbor, are there any 12" blades that will fit my saw?

[dave pant]

Scott I found that Forrest makes one but its very expensive. What i did was get a bushing that fits on your arbor to make it fit 1" holes. Its better to buy it than make it believe it or not I made one and it took me like 45 minutes in a machine shop lol, it looks just like a washer.

[John Thompson]

My 12" table saw has a 5/8" arbor, are there any 12" blades that will fit my saw?

I think Dave pretty much nailed it... you're going to need a reducer bushing from 1" to 5/8". I needed one a few days ago to use a 12" blade on my 5 HP 10" TS which has 5/8. Someone here helped me find one and I ordered it from Amazon a few days ago. So.. Amazon has them if you search under TS blade bushing, etc. Or there source is Timberline Tool I do believe which actually ships.

I believe I paid $4 and $.074 shipping so not expensive...

Good luck..

[Charles McCracken]

Lots of good info so far. Freud offers 12" blades only with 1" bore so you need to use a bushing like the BL71MCE9. My recommendation for a ripping blade for a 12" saw would be to check our Industrial line for either the LM72R012 or the LM74R012:
http://www.freudtools.com/p-35-heavy-duty-ripbr-nbsp.aspx
http://www.freudtools.com/p-34-glue-line-rippingbr-nbsp.aspx