Stole This From Dennis

[Tyler Howell]

(http://home.alliancecable.net/~woodworker/dcremote.html)
Stole the design for my DC remote control from my Southern Bro. Dennis Peacock and messed with it a bit.
http://home.alliancecable.net/~woodworker/dcremote.html (http://home.alliancecable.net/~woodworker/dcremote.html)
With exception of the pilot lights and switch plate covers, everything was stashed in the shop some place. Some of the stuff the average WW won't have around but as Russ can attest, I'm a hopeless pack rat and consummate dumpster diver. All is available from your electrical reseller. To pay retail for parts could price it at or above a low end commercial model. It's the journey right? :D

The thing I like about my RC unit:

everything is self contained.
125 and or 250 VAC can be controlled at once.:cool:
the radio control is fused.
pilot lights give a visual status.

The Honeywell contactor K1 is rated for 600 VAC at 15 amps. More than I'll ever throw at it.
I built it for 125 and 250 (rating of the weakest link) because I'm using it with both the DC and shop VAC, sometimes both at the same time.
Took extra precaution to isolate the RC antenna from the high voltage components.
The Leviton L14-20 male and female connectors legally carry a neutral, ground, X and Y so you can cook with 125/250.
Internal wiring will handle 40 amps easy when I upgrade DCs. Works great and fun project.
Thanks Dennis;)
Tyler

[Terry Hatfield]

t,

Nice job!!!

BTW...the word is borrowed...not stolen. :D

[Dennis Peacock]

t,

Nice job!!!

BTW...the word is borrowed...not stolen. :D

Nope...Tyler's correct....

He STOLE it alright..... :eek: LOL!!!! :D :p

[Dennis Peacock]

Very well done there Tyler..!!!!! :D You did me real proud.!!! ;)

Now...does this mean that I need to come up with a fancier version of my DC remote made from dumpster parts to compete!???? :confused: :rolleyes: :p

[Tyler Howell]

No competition here Sen Sae! This is like a relay race where we hand the batton off to the next guy and he runs it a while. We are all winners here in the Creek.;)

[Steve Clardy]

Hey Dennis and Tyler. I have my lamp remote now and am ready to start building my dc remote. Need some guidance here so I do not blow this $60.00 4 hp contactor switch. Arrgggghhhh!!!
I am planning on using the current switch I have, not a seperate contactor. It should have a 110 coil in it. Haven't tore it down yet.
Thats where I need the help, hooking the 110 to the coil.
Need pics?

Steve

[Dennis Peacock]

Hey Dennis and Tyler. I have my lamp remote now and am ready to start building my dc remote. Need some guidance here so I do not blow this $60.00 4 hp contactor switch. Arrgggghhhh!!!
I am planning on using the current switch I have, not a seperate contactor. It should have a 110 coil in it. Haven't tore it down yet.
Thats where I need the help, hooking the 110 to the coil.
Need pics?

Steve
Steve,

Go to my personal web site and look there. I show how it all hooks up. Just remember to ground the circuit to the metal box if you have one. Hook up to the 110V coil is easy. Black wire to one side and White wire to the other side of the coil and you're all done. ;)

[Chris Padilla]

Steve,

You use the lamp remote to turn the contactor on. You plug the lamp remote box in a normal 120 Vac outlet so it works. Then you "plug-in" the 120 V coil on the contactor to the lamp box. Now you can remotely turn the contactor off and on. That is the first part of the circuit. Get that working.

Now, you need to supply the other side of the contactor with power (from a 240 V source I assume) and a load (your motor). The contactor acts as a "beefy" switch to turn off and on the 240 V to power your motor.

I'm going to do the same thing with my pool pumps but I'm going to run them with a sprinkler timer and they usually run a 24 V coil. So, I bought a contactor with a 24 V coil on one side and 240 V on the other side. Now instead of using the crappy mechanical 24-hour timer, I can use an electrical 7-day timer to better control the pumps on my pool.

Clear as mud? :)

[Bruce Page]

Steve,

I'm going to do the same thing with my pool pumps but I'm going to run them with a sprinkler timer and they usually run a 24 V coil. So, I bought a contactor with a 24 V coil on one side and 240 V on the other side. Now instead of using the crappy mechanical 24-hour timer, I can use an electrical 7-day timer to better control the pumps on my pool.

You have a pool? Sheesh!

[Steve Clardy]

Steve,

Go to my personal web site and look there. I show how it all hooks up. Just remember to ground the circuit to the metal box if you have one. Hook up to the 110V coil is easy. Black wire to one side and White wire to the other side of the coil and you're all done. ;)
Ok.
Dennis. Been there. Understand the way yours works.
Chris. I am attempting a different route here.
Instead of using a separate contact switch, I am trying to use my present switch, which may noy work, or be actually the hard way.
If I can use my switch, I can either use manually like it is now, or the remote.
Heres pics. Diagram pic isn't too clear.

[Tyler Howell]

Steve If I hear you correctly you are going to use your magnetic motor start switch to operate something??
Think it is doable but all the Mag. switches I've seem have many options including current limiting. They operate by closing a momentary contact (ON ) and have magnetic holding contacts on the contactor in series with your (OFF )button. When pushed opens the contact and current flow to the coil is interrupted.
You will have to jumper over these contacts to get it to work like Mr. Peacocks design which defeats many of the great features of a Mag switch. As all contactors have there own unique characteristics, I think we'd have to sit down and re draw yours. Let's see what you got??

[Tyler Howell]

Boy am I smart or what???

Need to see the diagram better if you can get a cleaner shot.

[Steve Clardy]

Boy am I smart or what???

Need to see the diagram better if you can get a cleaner shot.

Hey my buddy Tyler. Hows it running? ha
Dennis and I have been in the chat session hashing this out.:eek: We figured that by using the mag switch, we could get it ON, but couldn't get it Off,:eek: using a single remote.
So--- back to plan a for now. Wire in Dennis's switch system, leave the mag in the system.
But- still would like to pursue using the mag only if possible.
So in the morning I'll draw out the diagram and flash it to ya.:eek: It's inside the cover, very small and hiding deep for a good shot of it:(. I'll post a new pic in the morning. Gotta get some grub, stomach is cranky.:eek:

[Tyler Howell]

Hey Steve,

Sat Down with a Motor Starter, truth table and paper last night. I don't think we can get there from here with what you have.:(

To maintain all the features of the unit and get a start and stop from your wireless remote you may have to add something that could get pricy. I'm thinking a relay or Solid State circuit that will give you a momentary close on your start and an open in series with your holding contacts when you hit off.
Now an outboard remote switch can be wired in. Maybe even a couple of them to give you start and stopfrom different locations.

Check my math:confused:

[Chris Padilla]

Steve,

Check Frank's Electrical plan post near the end (from post #89 on) as there were some ideas for wiring a DC there. Maybe it helps...maybe not.

[Steve Clardy]

Hey Steve,

Sat Down with a Motor Starter, truth table and paper last night. I don't think we can get there from here with what you have.:(

To maintain all the features of the unit and get a start and stop from your wireless remote you may have to add something that could get pricy. I'm thinking a relay or Solid State circuit that will give you a momentary close on your start and an open in series with your holding contacts when you hit off.
Now an outboard remote switch can be wired in. Maybe even a couple of them to give you start and stopfrom different locations.

Check my math:confused:
Yo Tyler. Your math is on the right path I believe. Peacock and I hashed that one over on da chat screen last night and also concluded it would take two remotes to do the job on the mag switch.
So for now I have ordered a 240 2 pole contactor and am building his style remote. But I am leaving the mag in line so I can use both, just in case the dog would happen to drag the remote off into the back unknown. :eek:

Chris, I'll check out that post, as this project is still in my head. Might get to costly as Tyler advises though.:(
Steve

[Dave Richards]

"This is like a relay race..."

Ha! I get it. It's a pun!

Nice controller guys. Tyler, did you happen to buy two of everything so you could make one for me? :rolleyes:

[Tyler Howell]

Dave as stated in the post a lot of the stuff was dumpster diving. Some of the Item's came in twos:D . We can talk:rolleyes: .

[Jerry Olexa]

Tyler and Dennis I am impressed. You guys ARE good!! Great dual effort!