Restoring 15" Planer

[Salem Ganzhorn]

I just picked up a 15" planer manufactured in 1993. I believe it is ENCO brand CT-38' but it just says "INDUSTRILINE" on it. It looks just like a Delta DC-380. Unfortunately the owner did not have the infeed/outfeed rollers.

It has surface rust on the bed and very minor rust on the bed rollers. The top serrated and solid rollers look pretty good.

It has a 2HP 220v motor and pretty much purs when started up. Both speeds work. The lift mechanism seems smooth too.

The current plan is:


clean the rust off the table and rollers with mineral spirits and scotchbright pads.
change the gear oil. Unfortunately the manual doesn't list the oil type or capacity. Only that it it needs changing :confused:.
lube the lift mechanism. Not sure the best procedure here.

Also wondering if I should expect horrible sinpe without the rollers. Didn't they sell the DC-380 with and without the rollers?

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer!

[Derrell W Sloan]

Small world. I bought a used grizzly (g1021) that looks exactly like the one you have, rust and all. If you want infeed/outfeed rollers you can get parts for the g1021 from grizzly that I bet would fit your planer. I haven't started restoring mine yet but I'm looking forward to working on it. Good luck with yours.

[Fred Hargis]

Where to start? My Delta gearbox takes a little over 16 fl. ozs of oil (manual says 20) and I use a Mobil 1 product (SHC 630) which is a 90 weight synthetic (read: expensive $16/qt.) gear oil. A Delta tech suggested it. But the Byrd head instruction manual suggests these planers use a standard 50 weight gear oil....my guess is that almost any good gear oil will work. As for lubing the lift mechanism: there are 2 points to lube: the threaded shafts inside the posts (use a white grease) and the chain mechanism under the frame (regular industrial chain oil). I think you may be right about the 380 being sold without rollers, although mine has them. Snipe got worse after I installed my shelix, but prior to that it sniped only a little, and then only if I didn't tighten the cutterhead clamps. With the shelix, snipe can be quite severe if I don't lock it or lift the end of the board as it discharges. Those pics do look exactly like a 380...except for the color (and maybe the 3 HP motor) of course.

[Mike Wilkins]

Several years ago, Fine Woodworking magazine did an article on 15" planers. The testers stated there was no difference in many of the models that were on the market at that time, other than the paint job and nameplate. I know Grizzly sold a planer just like yours so any parts should be available from them. You have a nice one there.

[david brum]

I have the identical planer. I honestly don't think the design has changed much since the '80s. I had to replace a motor bearing in mine ( no big deal). I also replaced the drive belts with 1/4" link belts.

After I went through the ordeal of setting everything level and square, mine virtually does not snipe. I also don't have rollers. Mine puts a smile on my face every time I use it.

Here are some very helpful links for setting her up.

http://wiki.owwm.com/Getting%20Peak%20Planer%20Performance.ashx (http://wiki.owwm.com/Getting%20Peak%20Planer%20Performance.ashx)


http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-986589700074242027&hl=en

BTW, you can mount casters directly into the holes in the feet of your planer's stand. I will make a much smaller footprint.

[Chip Lindley]

Solid old planer you got there! Infeed and outfeed support tables do not guarantee no snipe! Space limitations do not permit me to use them on a regular basis.

I support the stock as I feed straight into the planer, and once I feel the outfeed roller take up, I move to the outfeed end. When the end of the stock is ready to pass the infeed roller, I raise up slightly on the board to keep it from dropping when it clears. Long boards require some man-handling, but shorter cabinet stock comes out with NO snipe, ready to sand!

Bed rolls set too high are a major cause of snipe. Unless you are planing very rough lumber, set yours only .005" above the table. Experiment a bit and you will get the hang of it. GoodLuck!

[Salem Ganzhorn]

Thanks to everyone who responded. The links were especially useful from a background perspective. But I am not sure the jig can be used with this machine's motor location...

Also thanks for the feedback on the snipe. I would like to avoid adding 3 feet of wingspan to the machine if at all possible :).

I am going to start the cleaning tonight and will post updated pictures when I have progress.

Thanks!
Salem

[Cliff Furman]

[QUOTE=Salem Ganzhorn;1188496] Unfortunately the owner did not have the infeed/outfeed rollers.

.
Also wondering if I should expect horrible sinpe without the rollers. Didn't they sell the DC-380 with and without the rollers?

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer![/QUOTE


I don't understand how you expect the planer to feed the wood, without feed rollers?

[Dan Friedrichs]

I don't understand how you expect the planer to feed the wood, without feed rollers?

They meant infeed and outfeed roller tables - the attached picture shows these tables attached. But they're just infeed/outfeed support, and anything (or nothing) could be used instead.

[david brum]

The links were especially useful from a background perspective. But I am not sure the jig can be used with this machine's motor location...

After you remove the dust collection hood, you should find plenty of access to the knives. The motor must be pivoted out of the way to work on the knives, but that is only a matter of loosening two (I think) bolts on the side and rocking it toward the front of the planer.

[Salem Ganzhorn]

Thanks for all the tips guys. I ended up using the palm-sander-on-scotchbright-pad approach. I used wd40 to lubricate it. I was amazed how well it worked!

Only took ~20 mins to get the tables looking great. I followed this up with 400grit wet/dry paper on the palm sander. Really happy with the result!

I also changed the oil using high pressure 75-90 weight gear oil.

Then I ran a test board... the machine definitely needs alignment. I will make a test block and check the tables, rollers, chipbreaker, knives this weekend.

[Alan Jolly]

Hi. I found this thread from 2009 while looking online for information about a planer I have just obtained. The pictures of the one Salem has appear identical to the one I've got. Mine is a YHP150-15" Auto planer and I'm based in New Zealand. Mine looks a little worse for wear however. Being a relative newby to the woodwork game, I was after some tips on where to start with the refurbishment.
Like Salem I thought I'd start with:


clean the rust off the table and rollers with white spirits and scotchbright pads
change the gear oil
lube the lift mechanism
oil the drive chain
purchase a new set of blades and change out the old ones


Given the general condition of the planer as shown in the photos I was wondering what else the learned folk of the Sawmill Creek Forum might suggest.Has anyone had experience with a similar planer in extracting the chip cutter, the infeed roller and the outfeed roller as it is extremely awkward trying to clean them from the bed of the machine while they are in place. Also I'm assuming it would be advisable to give all the rollers a clean up and endeavour to remove the surface rust and scale. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what their surfaces should then be coated with to minimise rust re-occurrance.
I have a parts manual for a Grizzly G1021 which I've downloaded from the web as the manual I obtained with the machine appears to have lived most of its life on the workshop floor.
I'd really appreciate any tips or tricks anyone has on this type of planer.
Cheers
AJ