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Richard Bell CA
08-03-2009, 9:49 PM
The following is a description of a bandsaw blade guide modification I alluded to in another thread. James Baker SD requested some additional details, so I will attempt to describe it. Hopefully this is not too confusing. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=1187479#poststop

In 2001 I purchased a Laguna LT18 bandsaw (18" Italian made steel frame). At that time, Laguna was offering their ceramic guides as a $40 upgrade from the european style ball bearing guides. I have been happy with the ceramic guides, although the saw was limited to 12" nominal resaw capacity (11 3/4" actual). This was frequently a limitation for me, so I decided to rebuild the blade guides. The first photo shows a side view of the original configuration of the upper guide.
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The second photo shows the finished upper guide, which resulted in a new resaw capacity of 15 1/4" - an improvement of 3 1/2".
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The modified guide consists of three machined aluminum pieces. The first is a square block bored to fit the shaft, with drilled and tapped holes to accept the remaining parts. Second, an L shaped bracket was fabricated to hold both the side guides (the blue pieces in the lower left) and the thrust pad. This bracket is attached to the square block from the bottom using capscrews. The third piece is an arm, attached to the square block, to support the yellow blade guard, which was cut to remove the lower stepped portion seen in the original configuration. New holes were drilled in the guard to allow bolting to the new bracket. In this photo you can also see where the flat on the vertical round shaft has been extended to allow greater vertical travel.
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The next photo shows the bottom side of the guide. The two capscrews holding the L shaped bracket in place ride in slots to allow front to back adjustment. The thrust pad is a ceramic disc bonded to the end of a round shaft (OEM), inserted in a hole immediately behind the blade. A pocket has been machined in the bottom of the L shaped bracket to allow adjustment of the thrust pad, which is locked in position with a setscrew from the bottom.
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The final photo shows the back side of the guide. Note that there is a square key machined in the blocks to maintain alignment. Immediately above the key is the setscrew that holds the assembly on the vertical shaft. Also note that the right side of the block has been tapered to fit the steel frame of the saw.
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The lower guide is a simpler configuration, consisting of a new longer block to hold the guides and the thrust pad. This modification brought the lower guides approximately 3" closer to the bottom of the table, so the unsupported blade length at maximum height is approximately the same as the original configuration. The side to side adjustment for both guides is provided by the mounting slots incorporated in the original guide blocks.

I have been using this new configuration for several months, and I am pleased with it.

James, hope this helps for your modification.

Richard

James Baker SD
08-03-2009, 10:26 PM
Thanks Richard. It is beautiful work, along the ideas I had (I have the ceramic guides also), but more sophisticated. I fear the metal machining may be beyond my capabilities however. I will look for some scrap aluminum and give it a try though. I always thought a 11 3/4 resaw for an 18" saw was a design flaw. Maybe you could patent it and then license Laguna to market it as an upgrade. :)

James

george wilson
08-03-2009, 11:06 PM
Nice work,Richard. I had a need for our old 20" Delta at work to cut deeper in order to get a job done. We were just able to cut about 1 1/2" off of the casting that the guide rod slides in to get the extra height. The guide rod and blade guides just go farther up into the upper housing now,at max. elevation. It didn't make the guide rod less stable at all. Now,I'm fixing up another 20" Delta for my home shop,and will do the same to it.

Sometimes that little extra few inches saves your bacon.

Scot Ferraro
08-04-2009, 12:00 AM
That's a sweet mod, Richard! I actually think you could make some good money trying to license it to Laguna or fabricate them yourself! Your design is actually better than buying a saw with the stretched frame -- still allows you to use 150" blades and I think that the frame would not deflect as much when running bigger blades.

Thanks for posting. I am going to have to give this a try at some point.

Scot

Scot Ferraro
08-04-2009, 12:03 AM
Richard,

One other thing -- would you mind posting some pics of the bottom assembly if you have a chance? I would be interested to see how this looks.

Thanks again!

Scot

Danny Burns
08-04-2009, 6:55 AM
Quite ingenious! Thanks for the post.

I think you may see a few requests for this mod as it is really worthwhile to increase the resaw capacity by 3 1/2".

Richard Bell CA
08-04-2009, 5:07 PM
As requested by Scot, here are some photos of the lower guide. Please excuse the gunk - I cut a lot of green wood. The lower guide was much simpler than the upper. It consists of one piece, essentially an extended mounting plate for the side guides and the thrust pad that replaces the original provided with the ceramic guide kit. The table is never tilted on this saw, so I brought it as close to the bottom of the table as I could. The guide can be lowered by approx. 1" if I ever do need to tilt the table.
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Thanks for the comments on the upper guide, but I cannot take credit for the concept. I found the following photo of a later model on the Laguna site last year, and use this photo as a starting point for my guide. The later models are a cleaner design than the one I bought 8 years ago, because it was designed for the ceramic guides, rather than a retrofit.
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James, As far as the machining is concerned, you can come close with a drill press and a good stationary disc sander (I used a benchtop mill-drill). Aluminum is actually pretty easy to work with - I even did some of the initial cutting on the Laguna.

Scot: Regarding the stretched frame, given the choice I would still go that route. While there is no effect on resawing, I find that the blade tension adjustment wheel (see photo) still gets in the way when cutting large blocks. However, it is still much better than it was.
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As a side issue, you (Scot) stated in another thread that you had replaced the european motor with a Baldor. In addition to more power and running cooler, did it eliminate the high pitched whine? Could you post a photo of the motor nameplate so I can look at the specs?

Thanks

Richard

Scot Ferraro
08-04-2009, 9:15 PM
Richard,

Thanks for the additional pics. Here is a link to the thread with the motor upgrade. I am traveling this week and will not be home until this weekend, but I can send you whatever specs you need -- the motor is very smooth running and pretty quiet -- of course you still have the blade noise and noise from the guides (not sure if the ceramic are quieter than the Euro).

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=115734

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Scot