Taper 3" legs?

[Brian Penning]

Any suggestions on how to taper 3” thick legs?
I usually use a taper jig but this time the legs and jig would be higher that the TS blade.
TIA for any and all replies.

[Matt Day]

Bandsaw using a similar jig?

I haven't read up on it, but I think you can do it on the jointer too.

[Joe Leigh]

Band saw is the way to go, then finish up on the jointer.

[Matt Day]

Thinking about it some more, I suppose you could make a jig and pass it through the planer too.

[Prashun Patel]

You can do it on the jointer, but you gotta lower the piece onto the blade w/ the guard retracted. It's a little tricky.

Far easier to use a bandsaw.

[Frank Drew]

Bandsaw, cutting well on the waste side of your cut line, then a few passes with a hand plane or on the jointer to clean up.

And it might be easier to cut any mortises before tapering the legs.

[David Christopher]

Brian, I have put a 12" blade on my unisaw for occasions like this and it works well... just make a new ZC insert

[John Thompson]

Brian, I have put a 12" blade on my unisaw for occasions like this and it works well... just make a new ZC insert

They have got the OP covered but.. I noticed your statement about using a 12" blade on your 10" saw. Great idea and I may borrow it from you. Who said you can't teach an old dog new tricks. Actually I have thought about it but dismissed it for the reason I am going to ask how you pulled it off.

Where did you get a 12" blade with 5/8" arbor hole or.. are you using some type of adapter. If so.. where did you get it or did you field engineer one?

Thanks for any help as I could definitely use the increased height on my 5 HP 10" as I do over 3" tapers often.

Regards...

[David Christopher]

John, I got the adapter at one of the tool houses along time ago. but I have made them from grinding wheel adapters, just find the size that you need and cut it thiner and sand it flat.......hope this helps.............make sure its the metal adapters

[Maik Tobin]

They have got the OP covered but.. I noticed your statement about using a 12" blade on your 10" saw. Great idea and I may borrow it from you. Who said you can't teach an old dog new tricks. Actually I have thought about it but dismissed it for the reason I am going to ask how you pulled it off.

Where did you get a 12" blade with 5/8" arbor hole or.. are you using some type of adapter. If so.. where did you get it or did you field engineer one?

Thanks for any help as I could definitely use the increased height on my 5 HP 10" as I do over 3" tapers often.

Regards...

Available at Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Freud-BL71MCE9-1-Inch-8-Inch-Bushing/dp/B00004RK8A

[Rod Sheridan]

If you make a taper jig that captures the leg by the end only, with the leg on the TS, you can cut the taper.

Bandsaw is a great method, with clean up on the jointer, as is a sled in a planer a great method.

Regards, Rod.

P.S. Of course a hand saw and a hand plane can do the same job if you don't have the machinery, or like to use hand tools instead.

[Peter Quinn]

Table saw, bandsaw, jointer, take your pick. Yes, I did say TS, and you don't need a 12". A 10" with the blade full up cuts 2 7/8" depth, even with a jig that steals a little height, that is close enough to cut off the scrap to the far side of the kerf with a hand saw, two quick passes with a sharp block plane and you are done. A 12" TS will do it too, not sure a 12" blade would fit on a 10" saw?

If its only a single set my preference is the jointer. Its not really a scary thing with sharp knives, but it might not be for everyone.

[John Thompson]

John, I got the adapter at one of the tool houses along time ago. but I have made them from grinding wheel adapters, just find the size that you need and cut it thiner and sand it flat.......hope this helps.............make sure its the metal adapters

Sorry getting back took so long but in the middle of a hall table (for fish tank) and I get somewhat wrapped up in the shop. Thanks for your reply as I had a feeling you probably made one.. but I see Miak posted a link on Amazon I will check out in a few moments for a store bought blade or arbor as I have not looked at the link yet.

Again.. mucho thanks sir...

[John Thompson]

Available at Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Freud-BL71MCE9-1-Inch-8-Inch-Bushing/dp/B00004RK8A

Thanks Maik.. I just ordered one and a 12" rip blade from another source. I don't have time to give it much thought so.. "just do it" as I need it in about a week on the project after the one I am working on now. :)

Regards...

[John Thompson]

. A 12" TS will do it too, not sure a 12" blade would fit on a 10" saw?

If its only a single set my preference is the jointer. Its not really a scary thing with sharp knives, but it might not be for everyone.[/QUOTE]

I pre-cut with a band-saw and then use the jointer normally. I used to do the drop trick on the jointer but on some legs like country tables I leave a 6" square at the top and that is a bit more complex for strickly a jointer operation. So... a 12" TS blade would be magic for me.

And BTW.. you should check out your individual TS for shroud clearance on those with dust shrouds.. insert opening lenght.. etc. My 5 HP has a very large insert as a PM 66 with not dust shroud under it nor any obstacle that would interfere with the added 2" diameter so... it will work just fine.

Regards...

[Warren Street]

I had the same problem. I cut mine with a hand saw and finished them with a hand plane. Took a while and some sweat but they turned out alright.

[Chris Tsutsui]

tapering with a jointer will sort of take a long time so I tapered 2.75" hard maple legs using the following method.

1. Make a jig that uses a long straight edge that can mark the taper lines for you with a pencil.

2. By hand, rough cut the tapers with a band saw close to the pencil line.

3. Use the jointer and clean up the band saw blade marks to match the pencil lines.

good luck!