BANDSAWS- Laguna, Minimax,Agazanni

[Tom Mitz]

Hello guys...

I have been reading a LOT about the three saws mentioned and have a loaded question.

I want to buy a bandsaw ONCE... I will use it for a lot of differant work from building recurve bow risers, and cutting them out, to some re-saw work....
Because I will use 1/4-1"+ blades this needs to be mentioned....

Im looking hard at the 18-20" saws....

Being that I do not have experience with any of the mentioned brands, I simply do not know what Im looking at overall...I like the souind of the 20" agazanni saw.... BUT will I be happy with an 18" Laguana....or MM 18 / mm20

I really need some good advice. I have read MANY wonderful threads on here, and hope someone can perhaps add to the information already at hand based on questions perhaps...

Thank you

[Bill Fleming]

Tom

You will likely be happy with any of these saws. I went with a MM16 back in 2005 and have been very happy - more than happy. If I had it to do over again I would have gone with the MM20 but have not been constrained by the MM16. I heard too many nightmares about Laguna service and have been very happy with the little MM service contacts that I have had - actually most impressed by the MM service for an old MM lathe that I found. Agazanni get good reviews on all fronts as well.

I don't think any one of these has a killer feature or fatal flaw - pull the trigger and get in the shop!

Cheers - Bill

[Mike Heidrick]

At the 20" level you have assembled a fantastic llist of saws. Add in Felder as well. Look at the resaw capacity and throat capacuity and find a good dealer. I would call around and see who has saws that were demoed at AWFS in vegas. Should be some significant deals out there. Try to put your hands on one before committing.

I own a minimax MM20. Dream saw for me. Added the Laguna Driftmaster fence - Man what a combo. So nice I bought a 12" Jet bandsaw just so I could keep my big blades on it all the time. Should have NEVER sold my 14" Jet. Call Minimax and ask to be transfered to Sam Blasco. He is a member here too. He can answer all the technical questions you will ever have about bandsaws.

I saw a Laguna LT16HD at a show. Another monster I am betting in a 20". You can get that one right out of the box with their ceramic guides - they work really well. Laguna has about 4 new models of saws (now a new 3000 line) that are cheaper than the LT16HD so check them out and compare their features. Call Tim Lory at Laguna if you need a rep that is really working with the forum communities on deals.

I saw a 24" or 26' Felder two weeks ago. It did not have the solid cast iron wheels like the Minimax but they were incredibly solid looking. The owner thought it might be made by the agazanni boys. I was thinking many Italian saws look similar. It had a great looking blade guard system and both uper and lower doors open on a comon hinge setup opening at the same time making replacing the blade simpler I believe. It was a great looking saw.

Not sure you can go wrong. Get with a dealer you trust so if there are any shipping stocking issues you will be prepared. make sure you understand what they will do if ANY damage is incurred.

Don't rule out owning two saws - on for resaw and one for curve cuts.

[John Thompson]

All of those are great re-saw BS's with a few minor glitches that any machine will have but.. maybe not the best suited for 1/4" blades and curve cutting IMO. They will but they all have very large bearing to handle wide re-saw blades which are not necessarily the best choice for narrow curve cutting blades.

I got an 18" BS just for re-saw and leave the blade on. I kept my smaller BS to keep a 1/4" on for curve cutting as I do a lot of templates. One of the best decisions that I have made IMO was keeping the 14" as I did.

Good luck...

[Richard Bell CA]

Tom:

I agree that any of these saws would work well. I have an 18" Laguna that I bought 8 years ago. It was a tremendous step up from a 14", and overall I have been pleased with it. While I did not have a bad experience with Laguna, I would not rate their customer service as on par with other companies I have dealt with. In fairness to Laguna, my last experience with them was 8 years ago and lately it looks like they are trying to improve their image.

When I bought mine, I contemplated the 16HD vs the 18. One of the major reasons I picked the 18" was the larger table, especially after wrestling large blocks on the relatively small table of the Delta 14". At that time both the 16HD and the 18 had a resaw capacity of 12". I modified the guides to get 15" resaw, and at times could use even more. However, the newer saws appear to have greater resaw capacities, so this is probably not an issue anymore.

You might take a look at the table tilt. I believe the newer ones have some type of rack and pinion mechanism. Mine does not have this and it is not easy to adjust. However, In my case I use the 14" when I need to make a cut with the table tilted, and I leave the Laguna on the flat position.

If you plan to use narrow blades, look at the distance between the lower guide and the table top. If this distance is too great, you will get more drift. The Laguna was actually worse than the Delta for narrow blades until I modified the guides.

If I had it to do over again, I would probably get the 20", and would give more consideration to the Mini-Max and Agazzini. However, it really depends on your needs, which only you can determine. If you are debating between an 18" and a 20", and have the space and the funds, I would lean toward the 20". When it comes to buying tools,I have sometimes wished I had bought better quality or the larger size, but have rarely felt that I went too far in a purchase.

Hope this helps

Richard

[Roy Wall]

My opinion is to get a 20" saw or bigger. I have the MM20, a very good machine - a brute of sorts for its size. I concur with contacting Sam Blasco at MM.....he is a good man and will help you get a machine.

Where are you located?

Another option is the Agazzani B-24 (24")....as it is less HP but bigger and close to the same price at the MM20........

[Jacob Reverb]

I have the Rikon 10-345 (18") and like it a lot.

[guy knight]

I have the Rikon 10-345 (18") and like it a lot.

had that saw nice bs upgraded it to a mm20 huge difference

[Jeff Duncan]

Here's the thing to remember when asking this type of question, what may be great for someone else, may not be for you. If there was 1 saw that made everyone happy, then there would only be 1 manufacturer. Kinda like trucks, some guys like their Fords, some Chevy's and some even like Dodge's, they'll all haul wood home, but they're pretty different in a lot of little ways that make people have strong opinions.
So do you have a bandsaw currently or will this be your first? If it's your first then it's even more unlikely that you'll find the perfect saw for you on the 1st shot. That's not to say you won't be perfectly happy with any of the saws on your list. Just that you may find for the specific work you do, there are things that you prefer about other saws.
I've run saws from the traditional 14" Delta's to 36" monsters, they all have their strong points. For my shop I went with a 20" Delta as it's a good compromise all around saw. It's not great, but it does well at both re-sawing and curved work. If I had the space I would definitely run 2 saws, but I just don't have the room. Anyway as the others said you have a good list of saws to pick from so don't worry too much.
good luck,
JeffD

[Jeff Willard]

I just bought one of the "pygmy" Lagunas (LT14SUV). Could have easily picked up a 16 or even 18" saw from another manufacturer for what I paid for it, just do not have the space. But in some ways, my little Laguna is more saw than many of the larger models-14" resaw cap., 3hp motor. It's actually a Chinese import, but seems to be an A1 piece of kit. The ceramic guides that these saws come equipped with outperform anything I have used previously.

Looking at the three that you have chosen, I don't think you can go wrong. It's just a matter of finding the features that you want, at a price you are willing to pay. Any one of them could be as much bandsaw as you are ever likely to want. I chose Laguna because it was small enough for a runt like me to wrestle into the basement by myself. I don't find myself wanting for anything I don't already have.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Tom,

I exchanged emails with Mark Duginske before I bought my bandsaw. I told him I was considering a bandsaw by those three manufacturers and the models I was considering were all Italian made.

His reply....You can't go wrong with one of those Italian made bandsaws.

Check with the manufacturers...find one that suits your needs and one that provides good service.

[Scot Ferraro]

Lot's of good info here -- personally I went with the Laguna LT18 and I am thrilled with the saw. They have a 16HD on special now with a free drift-master fence -- that is on my list for my next upgrade as it is one sweet system. I have never had any service issues with Laguna and the folks I have dealt with are all nice and responsive. The Felder 500 series bandsaws are made by ACM which is the same company that makes the Laguna saws and a few others models. While I have the Euro guides now (with cool blocks for running thin blades), the cermic guides seem like the ticket and when my thrust bearing goes south I will buy the ceramic retro-fit kit. As Mike said, check around for a deal from last month's AWFS -- I am sure that there are a few to be had and I am sure you will be happy with any of the saws you choose in that category. If you opt for the Aggazzani, call Jesse or Raul at Eagle Tools -- they are great guys and very knowledgeable too.

Scot

[Mike Heidrick]

Just a couple more bits of info for the MM20. You can raise the bearings really close to the bottom of the table. The guides move on a slotted bracket. Also you can buy cool blocks to be used on their guides. I have the ceramic guides from Laguna retrofitted on mine and I can use a 1/4" blade no problem.

[James Baker SD]

Tom:

I agree that any of these saws would work well. I have an 18" Laguna that I bought 8 years ago. It was a tremendous step up from a 14", and overall I have been pleased with it. While I did not have a bad experience with Laguna, I would not rate their customer service as on par with other companies I have dealt with. In fairness to Laguna, my last experience with them was 8 years ago and lately it looks like they are trying to improve their image.

When I bought mine, I contemplated the 16HD vs the 18. One of the major reasons I picked the 18" was the larger table, especially after wrestling large blocks on the relatively small table of the Delta 14". At that time both the 16HD and the 18 had a resaw capacity of 12". I modified the guides to get 15" resaw, and at times could use even more. However, the newer saws appear to have greater resaw capacities, so this is probably not an issue anymore.

You might take a look at the table tilt. I believe the newer ones have some type of rack and pinion mechanism. Mine does not have this and it is not easy to adjust. However, In my case I use the 14" when I need to make a cut with the table tilted, and I leave the Laguna on the flat position.

If you plan to use narrow blades, look at the distance between the lower guide and the table top. If this distance is too great, you will get more drift. The Laguna was actually worse than the Delta for narrow blades until I modified the guides.

If I had it to do over again, I would probably get the 20", and would give more consideration to the Mini-Max and Agazzini. However, it really depends on your needs, which only you can determine. If you are debating between an 18" and a 20", and have the space and the funds, I would lean toward the 20". When it comes to buying tools,I have sometimes wished I had bought better quality or the larger size, but have rarely felt that I went too far in a purchase.

Hope this helps

Richard

Hi Richard.

I also have had a Laguna 18" for abut 8 years so it is probably the same model as yours. I have also looked at the guides wondering how I could modify them to get more resaw height. They don't look very efficiently mounted.

Could you please describe in a little more detail what you did? Photos would be great also. I have a couple of ideas but would like to compare my thoughts with your already proven modifications.

Thanks, James

[Chris Tsutsui]

I got my smaller Laguna BS and I love it. The only thing I feel like adding was about a month ago I accidentally tipped over a board of wood hitting the exposed switch housing. To my suprise, it easily shattered the switch housing which seems like an ABS type of plastic.

So rather than to call Laguna and likely spend a bunch of $$ on a new switch housing, I jerry rigged it and so far it works but it looks terrible.

Now that I think about it... Everything seems pretty bullet proof on the saw except for that switch housing.

(Yeah, I know it was 100% my fault for breaking the switch) :D

[Richard Bell CA]

James:

To avoid cluttering this thread and going too far from the original question, I will post the modification in a new thread.

I would add that I have used the Laguna ceramic guides since purchasing the saw and am happy with them.

Richard

[Brian Kent]

I appreciate several posts that mentioned the limits of big saws on sawing curves. It's so easy to say "A big saw can do anything a small saw can do, but a small saw cannot do everything a big saw can do", which I have read many times.

If you want just one saw, you need it to do both. I am glad that the advice given here has not just been about resaw, but also about handling smaller blades for curves.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Brian,

You can do both with a big saw providing you are willing to make some changes on the blade guides. Like others, I have cool blocks for use on my MM-16 when I'm using small blades and bury the blade.

You can do both with a small saw....if you are willing install a riser block and either use sharp blades and a slow feed rate when resawing.

A person really needs to determine which bandsawing function they will use the most or be willing to make some compromises.

The way to get around this is to have two saws....

that entails a financial compromise that I couldn't afford to make.:o

[Peter Quinn]

I've used a Laguna 18", its a pretty solid saw. Can't compare to the others you mentioned because I haven't pushed wood through them, but they both look real soilid. I used the laguna for resawing veneer, not a problem.

I think the best approach to making the best decision for you is to buy ONE OF EACH, and sell me the one you like least. Keep the other two, one set up for scroll work or tight curves, one set up for resaw. Sound good?:D

[george wilson]

Is it the Minimax that has the cast iron top wheel,that you have to hang the teeth of the blade off the edge of? I know a guy who has one with that wheel type. Personally,I wonder how long it will be before a little bevel gets worn into the top wheel so that a narrow blade will not stay on it until you get the wheel re machined.

This is speculation on my part.I use 1/4" blades all the time,and wonder if this could become a problem. My bandsaws have rubber tires.

We did wear out the top wheel of a metal cutting bandsaw with a cast iron wheel bearing directly on the blade. It used 1/2" blades. We had to replace the saw.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

George,

I have a MM-16.

Almost all of the larger Italian made bandsaws use flat rubber tires on the wheels. They have no crown. Therefore it doesn't really matter where you run the blade.

They recommend hanging the teeth on wider blades off the front of the wheel. The reason is it extends the life of the rubber tire.

For 1/4" blades, you center the blade on the tire just like other bandsaws. Running the teeth over the rubber wears the tire faster and therefore shortens the life of the tire.

And yes, MM-16 has computer balanced cast iron wheels.

[Tom Mitz]

Wow-

This is a lot to take in !

Why does Rikon never get mentioned in these bandsaw wars threads ?? I looked at one in Woodcraft.... it looked like an ok machine ?

I am leaning a lil towards the Ag 20.. BUT need to learn more about small blade use. I think MOST of the time I'll have a 1/2" blade on for bow work....
:confused:

[Tom Mitz]

Mini max question..........

the 16 and 20 have same motor....

IF I do not need the 20" capacity - why buy the 20" saw ?

opinions please ? :)

[Tom Mitz]

As Mike said, check around for a deal from last month's AWFS --

Scot

HOW do I find these deals - from the reps ? ????

[Jeff Willard]

Mini max question..........

the 16 and 20 have same motor....

IF I do not need the 20" capacity - why buy the 20" saw ?

opinions please ? :)

If you know you'll never need the capacity of the 20" saw, it would probably be pointless. But look into the crystal ball and see what may be down the road a bit. If you can swing the greater cost, the larger saw may be nice to have at some point.

[Danny Burns]

Since all 3 are good saws, you can't lose.

Go to a woodworking show, and see all 3 saw at once. Walk into the Laguna booth with MM flyers in your hand, then MM with Laguna flyers, etc. etc. When they see that you are ready to make a leap, they will deal with you.

Then see who wants to give you the best deal. You'll know what's what when it's right.

I have never bought a tool that I didn't end-up using it's full capacity, though I have thought that I would not need it.
HP is always nice. I've never seen anyone complain about having to much of it.

Buy a good book on bandsaws, and read it front to back. Mark's would be my choice, since performance is to a large degree connected to the user.
Any saw no matter how well it is made will not outperform the operator, and so that is why I would get Mark's book since I don't think anyone can put a saw through it's paces better than Mark.

[george wilson]

I guess it was a little too dark to see the wheel on the guy's bandsaw,and I think he did have a wide blade on it. I got the impression from him that the wheel was solid cast iron,and you had to let the teeth hang off to preserve their teeth's set.

That is good to know,though I probably will keep my 20" Delta as my last bandsaw,If I EVER get it finished.

[Tom Mitz]

My opinion is to get a 20" saw or bigger. I have the MM20, a very good machine - a brute of sorts for its size. I concur with contacting Sam Blasco at MM.....he is a good man and will help you get a machine.

Where are you located?

Another option is the Agazzani B-24 (24")....as it is less HP but bigger and close to the same price at the MM20........

Roy - I am in Jacksonville, Florida

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Tom,

On the bigger European made saws, usually the wheel diameter indicates the maximum cutting height and width too. SO...my MM-16...16" from the blade to the spine.....16" maximum cutting height.


If you don't think you'd ever use the additional 4" of resaw capability, then by all means don't go for the 20" saw. But if there is any chance you would need that extra 4"....?????

Rikon, for the money, makes a good saw. There are a lot of happy Rikon owners here at the Creek.

Your title on this thread probably scared away any Rikon owners from commenting.

[Mike Wilkins]

Satisfied owner of a LT18 since 2001. Would get another one in a heartbeat if a UFO crashed into the shop. Back then they came with the Euro guides,but I upgraded to the ceremic guides and love them. They actually help keep the blades clean in use. I agree with Mark Duginske; any one of the manufacturers you mentioned would be great in the shop.
As for blades; I normally use a 1" for thick stuff, but it will accept a 1/4" blade with no problem. I got a bench top Rikon for the small scrolly stuff.
Good luck with your decision.

[Scot Ferraro]

In terms of deals you need to call one of the reps -- sometimes the info is listed on their respective sites. I have found, however, that when you call them you can sometimes work out a better deal -- depends on the company. I really like my Laguna and I would buy another one if something happened to mine. I just upgraded my motor to one of the Baldor motors and it is awesome -- I really like the Baldor better than the Euro motor that came on the saw -- runs much cooler and it has more torque. These are standard now on the Heavy Duty bandsaws.

I also think bigger is better with a bandsaw and if you can go for a 20 inch, then that is what I would buy. As others have said, you will never complain about increased HP or table size or resaw size. In the industrial lines of saws, there is really not that much of a difference between a 16 inch or 18 inch or 37 inch -- they are all generally made the same way from a quality standpoint. It comes down to capacities of each size. Of course the major drawback with a larger saw is that blades are going to cost more -- this may or may not be a big deal and usually the cost is not that much, but if you are buying a carbide blade it can be a lot more expensive. If I were buying a new saw today based on my experience and what I use the saw for, I would opt for a 20 or 24 inch saw -- having more table space to the left of the blade is a very, very good thing, especially when working with larger work. I have only been limited by the 12 resaw height a few times, but there have been a number of times that I wished I had more clearance to the left of the blade. Just my .02.

Scot

[Tom Mitz]

I spoke to a guy at Mini Max and he said that 20" was a slight issue with smaller blades.... I was not at all impressed with this guy... I want to talk to the guy everyone above mentioned but he is out of town.....the conversation didnt help my decision at all.....

[Mike Heidrick]

Sam lives out of town. Shoot him a PM on here and maybe he will give you a call. In teh meantime call teh Laguna and Eagle/Agazanni guys.

How soon are you going to buy? If you are close to IL you can come see my saw if you want.

[Richard Bell CA]

Tom:

You asked about the Rikon 18" and said it looked pretty good. I have not looked closely at the Rikon, but I did look closely at a Jet 18" a couple of years ago. One area to examine is the table trunnions. As I recall, the Jet had cast aluminum trunnions similar in design, and not much larger than, those found on the Delta 14" and clones. If you grab the table by the outside edge, you will find there is a fair amount of flex. Grab a similar table on one of the Italian saws and the rigidity is much greater, due to a very substantial cast steel trunnion. That is not to say that these are bad saws, or that Jet makes bad equipment. On the contrary, my 1952 vintage Delta is still going strong and I have 3 Jet machines that I really like. However, there is a reason why the Laguna, Mini-Max and Aggazzini cost more. It is almost like comparing a 10" contractor's saw to a 10" cabinet saw. Both have the same nominal cutting capacity, but there is a substantial difference in build quality and cost. It really depends on what you need to do with them, and what provides you with the best value.

Good luck

Richard

[george wilson]

I've written about a Jet 18" I bought for the toolmaker's shop. I gave it away to the millwork shop.

It was very flexible in its frame unless it was firmly shimmed under all 4 corners. I didn't like the European guides. They were not quite square with the blade,and to me seemed just in the way. No handy way to lubricate them either.

I put Carter guides on it,but just didn't like the saw. We had bought it because the 20" Delta from the 50's would be a rather tight fit where we wanted to move it to.

After using the Delta for years,I was too spoiled,and got rid of the Jet,and moved the big Delta into its place. The Delta is so much more of a heavily built saw than the Jet. I am currently refinishing one of similar vintage for my home shop.

[Tom Mitz]

Whens the next 'big' woodworking show ?? Im on east coast btw (Florida)

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Tom,

If you are not in a big hurry, I'd like to recommend you buy a book

The New Complete Guide to the Bandsaw by Mark Duginske. It's under $14 at Amazon.

I bought that book before I bought my bandsaw. I learned a lot and it even has a chapters on buying a bandsaw....what to look for....

I've loaned my copy out right now but IIRC it has a chapter on what to look for if you are buying a used bandsaw.

It tells you how to do complete alignments...when to do which alignments....etc.

It is a wealth of information.

[Tom Cross]

Tom,

I went through the same decision process earlier and bought the Agazzani B-20. I read hundreds of posts on this site and many others. I spent two hours using the MM-16 and talked to multiple owners of Agazzani bandsaws.


For me, the decision boiled down to usability. Be sure to check this out for all the choices as there are differences among the options. I asked these questions and got answers beyond the usual "love my bandsaw":

What has been the incidence of electrical switch issues, some very expensive to fix?
Can 1/4" blades be used without a work around? Can the bottom guides be moved back far enough so that 1/4" blades can be used?
What is the incidence of tables that are not dead flat?
How user friendly is the fence? Is it two position for both ripping and resaw? How easy is it to adjust?
Is the blade tension gauge reliable to adjust blade tension or does it drift noticeably over time?
How easy are the Euro Guides to use? Is tightening the lock nuts cause the guides to move? Or are they made with tight tolerances so lock nuts are not needed?
How well is it packaged for shipment so no damage occurs?
Is it set up and tested prior to shipment so it is ready to use upon arrival?
Can blades be changed without removing one of the mobility kit wheels?
How does the dealer react to problems? Is the dealer a straight shooter without hype and acknowledgement of strengths and weaknesses of the brand?
Does it have a true trunion? When you tilt the table, does the blade remain centered in the tabel insert or is a new insert required for table tilting?
After doing extensive homework on all these questions, the Agazzani was my choice. The B-20 is commercial grade and excels in usability in my opinion. I use it extensively for resawing and ripping. Out of the crate with a 1" Lenox Woodmaster CT, it cut straight and true using the fence without any blade drift. Good luck in your choice.

[Dave Lehnert]

I've written about a Jet 18" I bought for the toolmaker's shop. I gave it away to the millwork shop.

It was very flexible in its frame unless it was firmly shimmed under all 4 corners. I didn't like the European guides. They were not quite square with the blade,and to me seemed just in the way. No handy way to lubricate them either.

I put Carter guides on it,but just didn't like the saw. We had bought it because the 20" Delta from the 50's would be a rather tight fit where we wanted to move it to.

After using the Delta for years,I was too spoiled,and got rid of the Jet,and moved the big Delta into its place. The Delta is so much more of a heavily built saw than the Jet. I am currently refinishing one of similar vintage for my home shop.

Flexing was an issue in the older style JET saws. The new models have solved that problem. The new JET's look impressive.

[george wilson]

Does JET really mean JUST EVENLY THIN? :)

I don't know how new you mean. I bought the Jet maybe 6 years ago. Can't be sure.

[Mike Heidrick]

New triangle frame Jets look awesome. Same with the new $4K+ powermatic on show last year at IWF and AWFS this year.

Would not trade my MM20 for either.

Next big big world class show will be next year at IWF 2010 in Atlanta GA but there will be other shows around I am sure.

[Tom Mitz]

Tom

I like your points.... and I am leaning more towards the Agazzanni every day - the 20. I talked to Eagle today and was impressed.

Im headed out of town for 6-7 days with the kids. Headed to Smoky Mountains, then Illinois (Danville)

You guys keep my thread going ok ! :D

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Tom, if you want to be different, very high quality old cast iron saws are out there, like Oliver, Tannewitz or Yates. They can usually be purchased for about the same money or less then the good Euro saws that you're looking at, but can offer substantially more mass and ridgidity.

They can be a project if you buy one that needs a little work, but its not hard to work on them. Not for everybody, but if you like the old "classic" saw look, worth looking at. This Tannewitz is on OWWM.com, posted by Bill Simmeth. Check out my users page for an old Oliver if you'd like.

http://www.owwm.com/PhotoIndex/Images/1714-A.jpg

These machines work as well as any new saw, and in most cases, can be better. You can't go wrong with a good Euro saw either though, so enjoy your new saw! For what it's worth, if I was buying a new Euro saw, it would be the MM.

[george wilson]

When I lived in North Carolina,I was friends with the president of a furniture factory(actually 2 presidents). When I went around the factory,they had these beautiful 36" Tannewitz bandsaws. They were so smooth that,in the noise of the factory,you had to look at the saw teeth to tell if they were running. Most wonderful saws. they had direct drive from massive electric motors. Everything balanced to perfection.

I know where there is a 42" model if anyone wants to know. I think it's $800.00.

[Paul B. Cresti]

Here is my 100 lire input:
I have owned both an Agazzani B-24 (1ph) and now a MM24 (3ph). Both saws are very capable and well made. The quick overall comment I can make is the Agazzani is a bit more "refined" if there is such a term with these very large saws. The MM24 is built more like a tank with thicker steel (where I measure).

I liked the tilting mechanism on the B-24 better (very easy to use) but then again I rarely tilt my table and when I do it is no big deal with the MM24
The fence as is supplied is nicer on the B-24 as it flips to be low or high. Now I say that lightly because the very simple square cast iron fence with the MM24 I have allows for very easy modifications and customizations. I have created "add on faces" out of thick MDF that now allows me a 24" fence, a very low 3/4" fence and a 6" fence. They are very easy to make and I now can say these fences have made my life much better. The B24 fence seems like it would require some fancier mods to allow the same capabilites I have now
Blade size...I just about never use anything other than my 1" carbide as I almost soley use it for ripping and resawing. When I do do curved work it is usually gently sweeping curves that either the 1" can handle or I change out to a 1/2"...I have never used anything less than a 3/8" on either saw and tracking that small a blade on either saw has its challenges. I also own a Dewalt scroll saw that I use for quick cuts or really sharp curves
I prefered the blanchard ground table on the B24 as it seem to glide better vs the shiny MM24 table. All of my other MM machines have a blanchard grinding and I really like it
Both Eagle Tools and MM have been good to me. No issues with either one.
The resaw on my MM24 is 24"!!! if I remember correctly the B24 was something like 18". You may find it hard to beleive but I have actually used the 24" in some special projects so it has served me well.
I could go into the where all the saws are made and by who but that is a mute point now. My personal opinion is to stay away from Laguna as a company

Good luch with your decision.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

When I lived in North Carolina,I was friends with the president of a furniture factory(actually 2 presidents). When I went around the factory,they had these beautiful 36" Tannewitz bandsaws. They were so smooth that,in the noise of the factory,you had to look at the saw teeth to tell if they were running. Most wonderful saws. they had direct drive from massive electric motors. Everything balanced to perfection.

I know where there is a 42" model if anyone wants to know. I think it's $800.00.

George, if that saw is someplace out west, I'd gladly give it a new home. I suppose it's on the east coast though?

[Lawrence See]

The new Powermatic PM1800 could be worth a look as well...

Regards, Larry

[Norman Hitt]

As others have said, any of the three "Machines" on your list are Quality saws. I don't know if Laguna has finally improved its customer service over all or not, but maybe so.

Not to knock the Agazani in ANY way, the only thing I had a concern about was "IF" you ever needed to change the tires, as that could be both inconvenient and costly, as they are not (unless they have changed designs) replaceable in the field. They are/were vulcanized (?) to the wheel and must be removed and sent back to the factory to be replaced. (If this has changed, someone please correct me). My MM20 has tires with a square ridge on the bottom that fits into a groove in the center of the wheel to keep them firmly aligned in place, and they are not adhered to the wheel, so you can change them yourself should you ever need to.

I only mention this since others have given you very good information but that was a questionable point for me when I was in the market.

Have fun in your prepurchase research and decision making process and Good Luck and have fun with whatever saw you choose.

PS: You might find it interesting and informative to go to the MM website and look through it and find some demo videos done by Sam Blasco showing setup, changeovers and actually making a variety of cuts to show the versatility and accuracy of cuts that can be made using a high quality bandsaw. (a lot of this would be informative for use with Any Brand that you might select.

[Tom Cross]

Agazzani does have a vulcanized tire that is designed to last many years. I understand that it can be replaced though not as easily as one with a tire ridge. That was not an issue for me as I have never worn out a bandsaw tire.

[Tom Mitz]

When I lived in North Carolina,I was friends with the president of a furniture factory(actually 2 presidents). When I went around the factory,they had these beautiful 36" Tannewitz bandsaws. They were so smooth that,in the noise of the factory,you had to look at the saw teeth to tell if they were running. Most wonderful saws. they had direct drive from massive electric motors. Everything balanced to perfection.

I know where there is a 42" model if anyone wants to know. I think it's $800.00.

Where ??? Id like to see...

But wow - 42 cast iron - whats it weigh ? 10,000 lbs ? LOL

[george wilson]

The 42" Tann. is in Richmond,Va. Call Dempsey and Co. at 1-757-355-1619.I haven't been there in a month,but it is probably still there,along with a 36" Doall that runs smooth as silk,but which costs a lot more.

[Philip Johnson]

Tom did you order a saw or buy the Delta??? I have been following this thread and trying to decide myself which one to get. I am leaning toward the MM20 and was just curious why you felt the Agazzani was better. I have found very little info on the Agazzani.

[lou sansone]

Tom, if you want to be different, very high quality old cast iron saws are out there, like Oliver, Tannewitz or Yates. They can usually be purchased for about the same money or less then the good Euro saws that you're looking at, but can offer substantially more mass and ridgidity.

They can be a project if you buy one that needs a little work, but its not hard to work on them. Not for everybody, but if you like the old "classic" saw look, worth looking at. This Tannewitz is on OWWM.com, posted by Bill Simmeth. Check out my users page for an old Oliver if you'd like.

http://www.owwm.com/PhotoIndex/Images/1714-A.jpg

These machines work as well as any new saw, and in most cases, can be better. You can't go wrong with a good Euro saw either though, so enjoy your new saw! For what it's worth, if I was buying a new Euro saw, it would be the MM.

I second this view. I had the italian 24 inch machine and it is very nice indeed, but the 36 inch moak I have now is really a pleasure to use.

lou