TS Refurb Complete - almost

[Jim Rimmer]

I got some good advice and a good buy from folks here at the Creek and my TS refurb is complete except for buying a couple of new blades. Pictures are before and after. I bought an Incra 1000SE miter gage and a used Delta T2 fence. Cleaned off all the rust (an ongoing battle in the Houston humidity) and generally cleaned it up. I think it will serve my purpose as a hobby woodworker.

Thanks for all the advice and help.

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[John Lohmann]

Jim,
I've got a Cman saw that I'm basically doing the same thing that you did, except I plan to add a router table. The T2 has a back rail, I've read that Beisimeyer (sp) type don't require it. Is yours rigid enough? It would make a out feed table simpler.
Thanks,
John

[Jim Rimmer]

Jim,
I've got a Cman saw that I'm basically doing the same thing that you did, except I plan to add a router table. The T2 has a back rail, I've read that Beisimeyer (sp) type don't require it. Is yours rigid enough? It would make a out feed table simpler.
Thanks,
John

My problem is that my table is only 20" rather than the common 27" that most after market stuff is made for. I wanted to get the cast iron router table extension from Peachtree but it won’t fit my saw. I have a stand alone RT with a top I bought from Rockler. I would like to some how modify it to fit on my saw just to get more shop space. (My shop is the 3rd stall of a three-car garage).

You’re right about the Bies fence but I was advised by someone on SMC that the Delta didn’t need the back rail (good thing, because I couldn’t install it on my saw). I glued a piece of Lexan on the bottom of the fence behind the blade and it slides fine. It locks parallel and appears to be very rigid. The T2s have gone up but they are less than the Bies. I looked for a long time and was about to buy when one came up for sale on SMC. I jumped on it quick.

Good luck with you refurb. Post some pics.

[John Lohmann]

Thanks,
I guess I'll just mount the front & see how it seems. I can always add the back rail later. My saw is 27" however.

[Frank Hagan]

I live near the coast, but have less humidity (most of the time, anyway ... I'm in California). One thing I've found works well for the cast iron in my shop is paste wax. Johnson's Paste Wax for hardwood floors can sometimes be found in places like Home Depot, or even Minwax's furniture paste wax will work.

Someone told me to apply it "once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and then once a year forever." So far that plan has worked for me. The wax doesn't seem to transfer to the wood and interfere with finishing (one of the problems you can get from some non-woodworker sprays that contain silicone).

I also built a cross-cut sled that is the same size as my cast iron table top; it helps protect the surface when it is "stored" in place on top of the saw.

[Jim Rimmer]

I live near the coast, but have less humidity (most of the time, anyway ... I'm in California). One thing I've found works well for the cast iron in my shop is paste wax. Johnson's Paste Wax for hardwood floors can sometimes be found in places like Home Depot, or even Minwax's furniture paste wax will work.

Someone told me to apply it "once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and then once a year forever." So far that plan has worked for me. The wax doesn't seem to transfer to the wood and interfere with finishing (one of the problems you can get from some non-woodworker sprays that contain silicone).

I also built a cross-cut sled that is the same size as my cast iron table top; it helps protect the surface when it is "stored" in place on top of the saw.
I'll have to give the wax a try. I use TopCote from Rockler but I probably don't use it often enough.:rolleyes:

[Jeff Willard]

I'll have to give the wax a try. I use TopCote from Rockler but I probably don't use it often enough.:rolleyes:

An easy alternative would be baby powder, rubbed in with a chalkboard eraser. Could be done every day in 1/10 the time.