Need a Moisture Meter Recommendation

[George Israel]

I want to take the moisture readings in some wood to account for wood movement so I need some recommendations for a moisture meter. Any brands, models that Neanders like?

[Jon van der Linden]

I'm not really clear on what you're trying to do, it does make a difference. For furniture, my recommendation would be for a pinless type meter. They are more accurate than the pin type at low moisture readings, which is where we should be for furniture. For other purposes other meters may be more appropriate. If you're working in domestic and exotic woods I'd look at the Wagner MMC 220. It's not cheap, but it will save a lot of aggravation in looking up tables and things to convert measurements to an appropriate specific gravity.

[George Israel]

I'm attempting to build furniture.

[Dave Schwarzkopf]

I'll have to second the last reply. I've had my Wagner 220 for a little over a year and it's a great piece of kit. Easy to use and bang-on accurate plus there's no pins to mar your work. I bought mine from the South American rain-forest.com but their current prices seem a bit stiff. Shop around, if you can get it for the high 2's or low 3's you're doing well. It is rather pricey, and probably did not cost more than a couple of bucks to make, but it does its' job well.

If that's not quite the price range you're looking for, the same website has one by sonin for about forty bucks. I've only used the Wagner so I can't comment on accuracy/quality, but they're pretty simple tools and have no moving parts; what I'm trying to say is that if the Sonin came within 1% accuracy of my Wagner, then I'd definitely feel like a jerk for overspending.

[Jon van der Linden]

The Sonin is not at all like the Wagner. To start with, it uses pins. There is no reference to compensate for woods of different specific gravities. It is intended for general use on things like damp carpets... somehow I think I'd know if my carpet was damp without a meter. (Their idea, not mine!)

I haven't found any cheaper meters that are as effective and easy to use, but that doesn't mean there aren't any. I can't help but feel that you're right about there not being $400 worth of electronics in there.

[michael osadchuk]

cheap but effective moisture meters are around, at least in Canada..... where an outfit called Princess Auto sells, for $20 a meter with individual idiot lights for each percent point between 26% and 6%; uses pins (quite sturdy construction); you have to do the species density compensation with a chart
but it gives the same readings as my Electrophysics digital that I bought for several hundred dollars a decade ago

good luck

michael

[paul cottingham]

I have a wagner 210, and am very pleased with it. I have never used a pinned meter, so cannot compare it to anything else, but I give it a total thumbs up.

[Curt Harms]

The answer for me is--it depends. If I bought planed lumber, the vendors wouldn't be fond of my poking holes in their stock. I tend to buy rough sawn air dried local stock and I think pinned meters work better in that application.

[John Keeton]

George, I may be a lone voice here, and the way I buy wood may differ from your circumstances. I generally always buy air dried or green wood, and have always felt the a good reading must come from the center of the stock. So, I always try to cut a board and measure the MC in the center. I use an inexpensive ($100) mini-LIGNO E/D pin meter that serves me very well.

But, in the end, it is equilibrium that matters. If you have the wood on hand for long enough for that to occur, and you use appropriate construction techniques, the actual moisture content, while good to know, may not be all that relevant. I try to build to the conditions of the season. For me, most of my projects are completed during the winter or early spring, and our ambient humidity is low. I use an equilibrium chart to approximate the changes that may occur in taking the piece inside a conditioned space - and go from there. In most instances, the chance for major movement is slight.

For those that are buying wood from suppliers for immediate use, then my method may not be the most helpful. And, like I said, I may be a lone voice - and, more importantly, I may be wrong. But, it seems to work for me.

[Russ Massery]

Another nod for the Mini Lingo-E. As well as John comments about wood it self. I buy well in advance of ever using it. I feel that way the wood has a chance to acclamation itself to where I'm using it. I never have had a movement problem with any of my projects.

[John Keeton]

Just a quick follow up - I use my meter to buy wood, but never use it when building furniture. At that point, MC is just not relevant to me. The old timers didn't have meters, and the best advice is build for movement regardless of MC.

[Ken Werner]

I think John is right on, as usual. I have a pinned Timbercheck meter, LV carries it, and it had served me well. Sells for less than $100.

[Jon van der Linden]

Just saw one of these (CT808) in use on the Sauer and Steiner site, and they're enough less expensive than the Wagner models to make for an easy choice.

http://www.electrophysics.on.ca/no_pins.htm

[Bill Satko]

Pinless Ligno-scanner D from Lignomat. It has a better specific gravity range than the Wagner MMC 210. It very quickly ranges through the specific gravity's, as it will jump by tens when held down. The best part, it cost $199 compared to the Wagner MMC 210 at $355 (Amazon).

Ligno-scanner (http://www.lignomat.com/MoistureMeter/moisture_meter_pinless.wood.scanner.htm)

Not sure why I don't hear much about this option from Lignomat on the forums. All you hear is either a pin style or the Wagner's. Maybe us Ligno-scanner owners are a secret society and someone forgot to tell me.