What #5 is this?

[David Schmaus]

Found this in a box that belong to my wifes grandfather. I'm going to clean it up and use it. I was doing some googling trying to find out more about it and came up empty.

I can't find a name on it at all. The only markings are on the body.

05 (which you can see) then PATD - 8-20-07

Here are a couple pictures.

Thank you...

[Frank Drew]

I've never seen a hexagonal escape hole on a plane blade, so that's interesting. Record uses the 05 (vs. just 5) number, but I'm not near my 05 so can't compare.

Any markings on the blade?

[Richard Kee]

The shape of the lateral lever indicates that it is a Union plane.

See Walt Q's tips for determining the plane maker using the shape of the lateral lever:
http://www.brasscityrecords.com/toolworks/graphics/plane%20id.html

Richard

[David Schmaus]

While doing some light cleaning I can just make out the word OHIO towards the front of the plane. Did a search and sure enough. There was a tool company called Ohio tool Company that went out of business in 1920. And seeing how I live in Ohio..... More research....

[phil harold]

I like the screwdriver!

[David Schmaus]

Yea so does my wife :)

[John Keeton]

I like the screwdriver!Usually, a man makes that mistake only once!!

[Rusty Elam]

Yes it is a Ohio, does it have the tyhick tapered blade?

[Martin Cash]

Definitely an Ohio.
I'll let Peter McBride explain the hexagonal hole:

In 1901 Stanley Rule and Level Co claimed Ohio had infringed on its patent 473087 dated April 19 1892, the one we see all the time on the first blades with the hole at the bottom...
STANLEY
PAT.AP'L19.92
Often misread as Pat applied.
That patent was for the hole at the bottom of the blade to remove the back iron without disengaging the screw, and to improve the heat treating process. Lessen failures in manufacture and use. Also to enable more of the blade to be used before the lateral adjuster was rendered inoperative by falling into a large hole at the top of the blade.
Apparently Sargent had started to use the same configuration, hole at the bottom, but was dissuaded of that with the threat of lawsuit by Stanley.
Ohio won the case, the Judge saying the innovation was so simple that it might have been expected of a clever mechanic, and that no new result, such as is contemplated by the patent law, was attained thereby.
So Stanley's claim was dismissed May 16th 1902.
On appeal it was also dismissed, with costs, and noted that the Ohio blade was laminated and therefore the body of the blade is not hardened and so was not effected by the cracking problem, and therefore the solution that the Stanley patent was trying to protect.
How interesting all this is given the strident, and sometimes aggressive enthusiasm some of these old patented design features are nowadays discussed. The things being fought over a no more than " what a clever mechanic" might be expected to discover back then....and the more brilliant ideas from back then are now a bleeding obvious solution, but 100 years ago they were brilliant invention and innovation.

So you might very well have a lovely laminated blade as well.
It is an excellent all round plane.
Well done you.

MC

[David Schmaus]

Thank you for all the history. The older I get (40) the more I appreciate history.. Here is a picture of the blade

[Martin Cash]

Thank you for all the history. The older I get (40) the more I appreciate history.. Here is a picture of the blade

If it is a laminated blade, then the harder laminated steel will be on the other side to make the cutting edge.
You will know when you sharpen it as the harder steel will be a thin layer on top of the softer backing.
It will show up as a definite line of separation horizontally along the bevel.
This one is a Japanese blade but it shows the principle.
Cheers
MC

PS: I have just looked at the picture here again, and this Japanese blade may have a full lamination of harder steel to a softer iron top.
I can't seem to locate a picture to illustrate exactly what I mean in my explanation above. But essentially it is two layers of steel put together like a sandwich, with the harder layer on the back to form the cutting edge.

[Jim Koepke]

My first thought on the lateral lever is it looks like a Union except the Union lateral adjuster has the mounting pin below the disk if my memory is working.

jim

[Martin Cash]

If it is a laminated blade, then the harder laminated steel will be on the other side to make the cutting edge.
You will know when you sharpen it as the harder steel will be a thin layer on top of the softer backing.
It will show up as a definite line of separation horizontally along the bevel.
This one is a Japanese blade but it shows the principle.
Cheers
MC

PS: I have just looked at the picture here again, and this Japanese blade may have a full lamination of harder steel to a softer iron top.
I can't seem to locate a picture to illustrate exactly what I mean in my explanation above. But essentially it is two layers of steel put together like a sandwich, with the harder layer on the back to form the cutting edge.

OK I have found a better picture to illustrate what I was referring to - viz laminated blade.
The darker steel in this blade is harder and forms the cutting edge.

[John Keeton]

Martin, that is interesting in that it appears to taper out to nothing a couple inches or so up the blade.

[Martin Cash]

Martin, that is interesting in that it appears to taper out to nothing a couple inches or so up the blade.
That's correct John.
It stops at the screw slot. No point in taking it any further.
This one is a Sargent and Co made in the US.
Looks like it came straight from the factory - never been sharpened.
Cheers
MC

[Wilbur Pan]

Martin, that is interesting in that it appears to taper out to nothing a couple inches or so up the blade.

That's pretty typical for laminated blades. The harder steels were more costly, so it only made sense to laminate the part of the blade that could be used for cutting. If you look closely, the lamination stops just where the slot in the middle of the blade begins.

Japanese plane blades are made in the same way. Although there's no slot in a Japanese plane blade, the useful part of the blade stops at the horizontal line across the middle of the Japanese blade in Martin's picture (the blade on the left), which is also where the lamination stops. The upper part of the blade, where the calligraphy is, is all soft iron.

[David Schmaus]

I will probably start a new thread later but I started working on the plane this morning. When I was reading threads on restoring planes last night someones post was "I like to either just clean it up a bit or go full on and make it look better than new." Thats how I feel about it. It is my first and only plane. I won't sell it and I want the experience. I started sanding the knob and looking closer at the handle. Amazing how good of shape they are in.

[jerry nazard]

...someones post was "I like to either just clean it up a bit or go full on and make it look better than new." Thats how I feel about it. It is my first and only plane. I won't sell it and I want the experience....

David,

When you approached "The Slippery Slope" you tripped up and started sliding. There is no turning back. You are hooked. The madness will never abate. I am very happy for you! <gr>

-Jerry

[David Schmaus]

Thanks Jerry, But really , LEAVE ME ALONE.... I am trying to search ebay and CL for more tools.... <twitch> <twitch> :)

[Dominic Greco]

I will probably start a new thread later but I started working on the plane this morning. When I was reading threads on restoring planes last night someones post was "I like to either just clean it up a bit or go full on and make it look better than new." Thats how I feel about it. It is my first and only plane. I won't sell it and I want the experience. I started sanding the knob and looking closer at the handle. Amazing how good of shape they are in.

David,
I always felt that if you had no intention of selling it as an "antique" you have every right to refurb it to any level you desire.

The first major plane refurb I did was a Union No7. It was the lever cap from a smaller transtional, the blade was almost gone, and the japaning was so bad that I had a buddy bead blast it clean. I got a Stanley Lever cap, LV replacement iron, and repainted it with black engine enamel.

I also stripped the tote and knob back to bare wood using a chemical stripper. Then I stained and added BLO. BIG mistake! Because I used BLO over the stain it took FOREVER to dry. I ended up restripping it and starting over.

But you know what? It's STILL my favorite mid sized jointer. :D

Before (it's the one to the left):
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z287/DominicGreco/dg062107b.jpg

After
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z287/DominicGreco/djg100707c.jpg
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z287/DominicGreco/djg100707b.jpg

[John Keeton]

David, that is interesting wood in the knob - can you tell what it is? Is the tote the same?

[David Schmaus]

John, I am not sure. I was wondering that. It is a pretty light wood and sands really nice. I cant make a mark with my fingernail.. Here are a couple of closeups. I would love some input

[John Keeton]

My guess is some sort of fruitwood - apple? But, if it doesn't mark with your nail, that doesn't sound right either. Looks like large growth rings though, and I would think apple would have tighter rings and be softer??

[Jamie Cowan]

I like the screwdriver!

I was thinking the exact same thing!