Drawer Box Construction

[Todd Burch]

I know there are several styles of drawer boxes out there, but what do you all favor making?

I prefer drawer boxes with ½" finger jointed sides with ply bottoms. For the sides, I typically use ½" Baltic Birch ply. If I use a ply bottom, I glue it in. If a solid wood bottom, I let it float (grooves all around - no opening in the back). I also use false fronts.

It's probably the kind of thing that once you build a few, you kind of "stick-with" a certain style. I like the finger jointed sides (stonger than dovetails, and for me, faster to make), but they aren't the fastest from a production standpoint.

What do you all find to be good, efficient, strong designs?

Todd.

[Ken Salisbury]

This is how I have been constructing drawer boxes for many years. Just a basic box to be used with a false front.

<p align="center">
<IMG src="http://www.klsal.com/Drawer2.gif">

[Bill Esposito]

I've made a bunch with 3/4" false fronts and 1/2" sides utilizing this drawer lock bit and I'm very happy with the results.
http://cerealport.net/woodworking/drawerlock1.jpg

[steve banks]

I just want to ask probably what will be a stupid question. Why is it that most drawer construction consist of a back that is inset with a dado instead of rabbiting the ends of the sides and attaching back flush. I just gotta know why. Thanks for any input.

[Paul Kunkel]

I use a drawerlock bit on all 4 corners, 1/4" melamine floating bottoms and false fronts to match the doors. I use 1/2" poplar for almost all. Never plywood, as unless you edgeband the topedge it looks cheap. Why poplar? It has been the wood of choice for drewers for centuries. Stable, easy to machine, no odor, and a relatively light color(usually). On occasion, per client request, I'll use a different wood, or plywood bottoms, and high end cabs get halfblind dovetails and integral fronts.

[Jim Becker]

Todd, I make virtually all my drawers exactly like Ken shows in his very nice diagram. Dovetails in the front and the back in a dado. I also like the bottom sliding in under the back as it allows you to adjust the drawer box absolutely square and then put a few brads or staples up into the back to keep it that way.

BTW, the actual location of the groove for the bottom needs to be calculated after you determine your dovetail design. Ideally, you want it within the bottom pin so it will not show. If you are using variable spaced dovetails, that may not coincide with 1/4" up.

[Daniel Rabinovitz]

To be philosophical!
You use the equipment that you have available and what suits your tastes or SWMBO's tastes.

Since I didn't have a dovetail jig when I made the Table Saw cabinet, I used Bill Esposito 's method for the 15 drawers.

When I made the miter saw cabinet, I used a Katie Jig dovetail jig to make the one drawer.

Since I don't own a half blind dovetail jig, I don't make them. I make a fake half blind drawer.
In other words, I stick a false front board on the face.

Oh, to answer Steve Banks question. When youget all the "junk" in the drawer. You need a sturdy way of attaching the back board so that it doesn't come loose or break off. When you yank the drawer open.

So, take your pick. :D

[Stan Smith]

Lot's of ways to do it and they all work. I also use the drawer lock joint. I have a router bit but use Bill Hylton's method with a slot cutting bit for the 1/2" stock. I just sent for a 1/2" drawer lock bit from Lee Valley. I just let the bottom float in the groove. I might try using the melamine for kitchen drawers though. I had never thought of that. Thanks for the tip. I also have a PC 1/2" halfblind dovetail jig. I believe that it cost less than $100. It works great and I use it for furniture drawers. For everything else, I use the drawer lock bit.

[jack duren]

i build alot of drawers differently according to if its a paying job or for me. i like the the dado about 3/4 from the back. this helps keep the solid back straight as time could cup a solid board in the rear with time. in a fixed dado insures it to stay flat and square.

some of the cheaper drawers will have a bottom attached right on the bottom. then some in a dado for dovetails,etc.

[jack duren]

a cheaper drawer....jack

[Lee Schierer]

I find that making a drawer box with dovetails on all four corners works best for me. The bottom sets in a dado run on the inside of all four sides. I use plywood for the bottoms and usually 1/2" poplar for the sides. I also make a false front, out of the wood being used for the rest of the project which is attached to the box with screws.

[Dave Anderson NH]

For me all of my drawers are done with hand cut dovetails. I don't own any jigs and can't see wasting the money. Most of my projects only have half a dozen drawers or fewer and I can usually get at least two done in the time it woould take me to set up and do test pieces with a jig. Both through dovetails and half blinds are easy to do by hand and I think the look and strength can't be beat. I've never done a drawer out of plywood, I usually use poplar though I have used white pine when duplicating a New England style period piece. Productivity is secondary for me since this is a hobby and I don't have to make my living at woodworking. As they say, different strokes......

[Greg Wandless]

Ever since I learned how hand cut dovetails, its the way I do drawers, and like Dave I too don't worry about how long it takes, but the more of them I do the faster and easier they become.

Usually do half blind up front and thru at the back. Most of my drawers have solid wood bottoms that is attached with a screw in a slot at the back no glue anywhere, that way I can take it out if the drawer needs fixing.

Cheers,
Greg