Getting that "dark cherry look"

[David Duke]

OK I admit it.........I hate finishing and I have a hard time developing the correct finishing schedule, thats the reason on most projects I go with a "natural" finish. I feel better already, getting that off my chest :D:D!!

I have a client who wants to get the "dark cherry look" without going to the expense of cherry. My question is wouldn maple when stained with either American Cherry (for a little lighter look ) or Red Mahogany (for the darker look) achieve about the same look; if not what species should I use?

TIA

[Scott Holmes]

Maple is one wood that resembles cherry in grain AND in the fact that neither stain very well. Blotchy is what you usually get. Practise on a large sample and use your entire finishing schedule.

[John Keeton]

I have never attempted what you are after, but many kitchen cabinet mfgrs use alder when mimicking a cherry finish. Not sure how available that would be to you for a test run.

[Larry Fox]

Humm, there are tons of schedules out there that will do what you want but none of them that I am aware of will get you the looks I *think* you are going after in less than 3-4 different steps. I don't think that you will be satisfied with the result of a short schedule on maple as it won't be "convincing". Don't know about where you are but out here FAS Cherry is $5.00 / bd-ft and soft maple is $3.50 / bd-ft. Unless there is a LOT of solid stock in the piece I am not sure the $1.50 / bd-ft difference would be enough to push me towards maple as you will likely eat up any cost savings on the material during the finishing stages.

The pic I posted in the thread below is what it sounds like you are looking for. It is not my picture and the schedule is available (somewhere) in the forums on Homestead's site. IIRC, the schedule involves about 6 steps, dye stains, toners, etc.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=111374

[Al Navas]

David,

In my experience, if a client wants the cherry look, he should get cherry and let it age - of course, you can help it along with a good "tan", by exposing to sunshine for several days; THEN you undertake the finish. But I not would recommend getting the dark color with dyes, especially if using cherry, to begin with.

You can end spending more time trying to get a good match to the 200-year old color, and your time spent trying to match will make up for the difference very quickly.
.

[Todd Burch]

Cherry Toner from ML Campbell, probably 4 or 5 spray coats put on 5 seconds one after another (OK, that's 1/2 a minute) followed by their lacquer and you'll get what you want.

Todd

[Larry Fox]

Todd - you have recomended this schedule in prior posts. Sounds to good to be true. Do you have a pic you can post - I would love to see this as I am always looking to shorten schedules if I can get the look I want.

[dan sherman]

As John said alder looks a lot like cherry, and is "usually" 20-25% cheaper.

alder: http://hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/alder.htm
cherry: http://hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/cherry.htm

[Todd Burch]

Todd - you have recomended this schedule in prior posts. Sounds to good to be true. Do you have a pic you can post - I would love to see this as I am always looking to shorten schedules if I can get the look I want.

I haven't done a piece as dark as that in a while. Here's a poplar side table with 2X4 pine stud (from a burned down house) legs.

And, here's a birch built-in I did a while back (Winter 2002). This one has several coats of dark oak toner. With either (or any of) the toners, with enough coats, the piece can be opaque.

Todd

[Larry Fox]

Thanks Todd - I appreciate your posting them. All look great.

[David Duke]

Been out of pocket for awhile guys, thanks for all the suggestions. From what I can find around here cherry is running about 3.00 bf more than maple. The client isn't worried about the grain as much as she is with the color. Looks like I'll be making up a bunch of samples

Thanks again for the help.