glue line rip blade and finish blade questions

[Robert Reece]

1. I have a glue line rip blade from Freud. It is probably 10 yrs old, but never used much. I pulled it out because I am sending some other blades in to be sharpened and I wanted to analyze this blade. See the attached picture. This blade cuts rough and it is hard to feed against. Was this just a dud from Freud? Should I send it in for sharpening? In it's defense, I tested it on 2" ash (freshly jointed so I had two good sides to work with on the Tablesaw).

2. I have a 72T ATB full kerf blade which has been sharpened once. It has a positive rake on it. It is also hard to feed against on the tablesaw (using plywood). Is that because it's 72T with small gullets or because the sharpening job was bad? It looks ok, but I don't know what to look for. Should I send it in too? I also had this blade in my slide miter, but it was like cutting through iron with it. What would you use this blade for? I believe it's a Freud blade as I can see a very light shadow that says "Freud". The guy who sharpened it also cleaned it and took all the print off of it.

I'm sending all my blades to Dynamic Saw in Buffalo based on recommendations from this group.

Rob

[glenn bradley]

The tooth marks in your picture look like your fence is toed in towards the rear of the blade (or the rear of the blade is toward the fence; both fence and blade should be parallel to the same miter slot). My saw is only 1-3/4HP and I run an 80T Freud for ply or when crosscutting hardwoods of whatever thickness and get glue-ready results so I don't think the tooth count is a problem. For ripping I use a 24T and feel that more teeth than that making a better cut is pretty subjective. Some like more, some don't.

Not sure what saw you are running. Assuming you've got enough power, after confirming your alignment I would check belts and pulleys to make sure your not getting slip. The resistance you're feeling combined with the effort to overcome it could account for the poor cut even on a well aligned tool. Please let us know what you find out.

[Myk Rian]

The Glueline rip blade is for stock up to 1" thick.

[Ed Labadie]

The Glueline rip blade is for stock up to 1" thick.

Correct.

I use my glue line rip for most everything, finish is almost perfect.

As mentioned, check your fence also, on stock thicker than 1", I get better results than your pic shows.

Ed

[Robert Reece]

Thanks for the replies.

I have a 5HP Jet that has just been completely disassembled, cleaned, lubricated and aligned. Pulleys and belts are in excellent condition. The fence is dead parallel to the blade.
When I run a 50T combo blade, it cuts like butter and leaves no marks.
I think I should just send this 24T glue line rip blade in for service. It seems like I have one tooth that is a little out of line with the others.

[Scott Whiting]

The Freud glue line rip is a 30t triple chip, LM74.

The 24t heavy duty ripping is a LM72. The LM72 will not cut as clean as the LM74.

Your feed rate problem may well be a dull blade or a tweaked shoulder. Also if your blade is an LM72 with the anti kickback shoulders it should feed no faster than a 50t.

[Robert Reece]

I do actually have a 24T ripping blade, not a glue line rip 30T. Well it's already in the box and ready to go get sharpened so we'll see what comes back. Even if it rips rougher than a glue line rip, it seems like it should do better than what I am getting.
It also has one chipped tooth so that might be making the marks. I just realized that earlier today when I was packing them up.

[Scott Whiting]

Chipped teeth by themselves do not make marks. However if a shoulder got tweaked and the protruding tooth got chipped because it stuck out that would be a tooth that I, as the sharpener, would toss a gauge on just to make sure, even if I did not deem the chip worth replacing that whole tooth. I am sure Dynamic will too. Assuming you made note of the fact you thought the saw marks excessive.