Dan Forman
07-28-2009, 5:02 AM
Probably nothing new to many of you, but thought I'd share these two simple jigs which make it a bit easier and safer to make certain cuts on the bandsaw.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l279/T-Caster/P1020302.jpg
First up is for slicing logs, can also be used to resaw round blanks if you don't want to use the whole thickness, and don't want to turn the excess into more shavings to sweep up. There is a column of screw holes going from top to bottom, through which the workpiece can be attached. If the flat surface of the log is smooth enough, you can also use double sided tape, in the event that you don't want to mar the flat side with a screw. The cut can be made freehand or with the fence, once set for drift. To join the two pieces I used 5 pocket screws and glue, which is quite stable, and resulted in a true right angle, though for this purpose it's not that critical.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l279/T-Caster/P1020304.jpg
This is just a piece of plywood with a runner to fit in the miter slot, which eliminates the rocking of a piece as it is pushed trough the saw if the bottom isn't flat. The workpiece can be stabilized with appropriately sized wedges if necessary so that it goes straight through the blade without rocking, twisting, or binding. Theoretically blade drift could be an issue with the runner, but it hasn't been a problem for me, perhaps there is enough give with piece held to the jig only by gravity.
Dan
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l279/T-Caster/P1020302.jpg
First up is for slicing logs, can also be used to resaw round blanks if you don't want to use the whole thickness, and don't want to turn the excess into more shavings to sweep up. There is a column of screw holes going from top to bottom, through which the workpiece can be attached. If the flat surface of the log is smooth enough, you can also use double sided tape, in the event that you don't want to mar the flat side with a screw. The cut can be made freehand or with the fence, once set for drift. To join the two pieces I used 5 pocket screws and glue, which is quite stable, and resulted in a true right angle, though for this purpose it's not that critical.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l279/T-Caster/P1020304.jpg
This is just a piece of plywood with a runner to fit in the miter slot, which eliminates the rocking of a piece as it is pushed trough the saw if the bottom isn't flat. The workpiece can be stabilized with appropriately sized wedges if necessary so that it goes straight through the blade without rocking, twisting, or binding. Theoretically blade drift could be an issue with the runner, but it hasn't been a problem for me, perhaps there is enough give with piece held to the jig only by gravity.
Dan