First time with drawers

[Dwain Lambrigger]

Hello All,

I am building some drawers for the first time. These drawers are for the garage. Expecting a heavy load, I purchased 100lb full extention ball bearing side slides by Decorite. I have never done this before and the slides didn't come with instructions, so I had a few questions.

1) How much space do I need to build into the width of the drawer to compensate for the slides? For example, if the space is 24", how wide should my drawer be? I have heard 1/2" per slide (1" total), but I wanted to confirm.

2) Where should the slides be installed on the drawer itself? I thought is should be toward the middle on each side of the drawer, but I am not sure.

3) I purchased 22" slides, and they are actually 21.5" long. I am assuming my drawers should be no more than 21.5", or should I build them a little less deep (shallower?), say, 21"

4) Is there a tutorial on installing these types of drawer slides? I went online and didn't find anything on the manufacturer's web site (Decorite).

5) I am attaching these slides into 3/4 BB ply. No screws were included with the slides. What type of screws should I purchase?

I want to make sure these drawers are the right width and depth the first time. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Dwain

[harry strasil]

never done drawer slides, but temp mounting on each side of a scrap would tell you how much to allow.

[Greg Cuetara]

I just picked up some 18" full extension slides from the borg. They came with a little instruction manual...mine are 1/2" and they came with screws. Where did you buy yours?

I am having a b***h of a time right now trying to get them all working right and to get the sides of my cabinet all square.

Good luck.
Greg

[David Giles]

1. 1/2" per slide is standard, but measure your slides anyway. I'm not familiar with this brand.

2. Anywhere you want. Most folks put them in the middle. I like to put them 3" up from the bottom. It makes it easier to hold the drawer and manipulate the slide at the same time.

3. Undermount drawer slides need to be an exact length. Side mount drawer slides can mount to any size drawer that fits into the case.

5. Don't remember the size, #6, I think. Undercut head to keep the screw flush with the slide. 5/8" long.

[Tom Cross]

I googled the brand and no installation instructions are to be found. Looking at the slides, they appear to be the same/similar to Accuride 3832. I have attached detailed instructions for the Accuride slides. Use these instructions, should work like a charm for you.

[sean m. titmas]

Hello All,

I am building some drawers for the first time. These drawers are for the garage. Expecting a heavy load, I purchased 100lb full extention ball bearing side slides by Decorite. I have never done this before and the slides didn't come with instructions, so I had a few questions.

1) How much space do I need to build into the width of the drawer to compensate for the slides? For example, if the space is 24", how wide should my drawer be? I have heard 1/2" per slide (1" total), but I wanted to confirm. 1/2" per side is the industry standard. its ok to be up to 1.5mm short but not bigger.

2) Where should the slides be installed on the drawer itself? I thought is should be toward the middle on each side of the drawer, but I am not sure. first disconnect the slides into 2 pieces. install the larger piece in the cabinet box with the bottom of the slide flush with the bottom of the drawer opening. install the smaller piece flush with the bottom of the drawer. install the drawer. there will be a 3/8" reveal at bottom of drawer as per specs. this method is the most accurate and fastest method and is the standard for commercial shops. however, the slide can be placed anywhere on the drawer side without adversely affecting its operation.

3) I purchased 22" slides, and they are actually 21.5" long. I am assuming my drawers should be no more than 21.5", or should I build them a little less deep (shallower?), say, 21" you can build the drawer box as deep as will fit in the opening but i prefer to build the drawer boxes 22" (for a 22" slide) deep so when fully opened you will have full access to the drawer.

4) Is there a tutorial on installing these types of drawer slides? I went online and didn't find anything on the manufacturer's web site (Decorite). Decorite is a knock off brand made in China so forget the support. however all BB slides are built according to a set of standard dimensions so go to the industry innovator www.accuride.com (http://www.blum.com) and follow their install directions.

5) I am attaching these slides into 3/4 BB ply. No screws were included with the slides. What type of screws should I purchase? #6 x 5/8" flat head screw. they are specific to slides so wherever you buy the slides you can buy the screws. you can also find them at most big box stores, online cabinet hardware suppliers and cabinet hardware stores. i like to use a truss head screw but either type works fine.

I want to make sure these drawers are the right width and depth the first time. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
build a full scale mockup first to work out the details and eliminate any potential problems. since there is quite a variety of different methods for drawer box construction you should check out FWW about 6 months ago for an in depth article about drawer box construction options.

[Bob Carreiro]

1) How much space... how wide should my drawer be?
Mate both pairs, put both pairs together and place inside the cavity against one of the sides. Measure the distance from the outter one to the opposite side. That's the width of your drawer.

2) Where should the slides be installed on the drawer itself?
Putting them near the top makes them more visable to the operator. Placing them closer to the bottom makes them less obvious.

3) I purchased 22" ...should I... 21""
You said they are full extention. Building them 22" will bring the inside back near-flush with the fixed slide's front edge. Building the drawer shallower may cause the slides at the rear, free=floating sections to "twist" over time during full extention loading/unloading and cause premature failure, screws to back out, etc. If you want full access to the drawer, either use full depth sides with the back in inch or so in from the end of the sides (sides extend beyond back), or exchange the slides for over-extension slides.

4) Is there a tutorial...?
Your best teacher is experience.

5) What type screws?
Zinc, 5/8 flat head phillips, #6, or as big as fits flush with the slide screw holes. If they sit proud, it will hinder the slide action.

Go work it out and good luck!
Bob

[Dwain Lambrigger]

Thanks for all of the advice! I really appreciate it. I am building the drawers this week and really can't wait to test the first slide. I have nine of them, so I am sure I will get it right eventually...

[bill mullin]

All good advice above.
One thing I'd stress tho, I always make my drawer boxes 1/16" (width) smaller than the industry standard.
So if the frame opening is 24", make the boxes 22 15/16".
Makes re-installing the drawers easier, slide easier, no binding.

[Dwain Lambrigger]

I thought of one more thing.

I plan on using 1/2 inch BB ply for the boxes. what do you use for the bottoms? Is 1/2 inch overkill?

Thanks again!

[Dwain Lambrigger]

I bought mine at a local hardwood dealer in Phoenix. I paid $5.50 per pair. I guess the good deal means I get no screws or instructions. The place I bought from is for professionals, so I guess those types of details are really necessary! Why do you think you are experiencing problems with squaring your cabinet? I know I had a lot of luck the last time I made a toybox, but I haven't tried a cabinet. My drawers are going into a NYW mitre station. No face frames or anything. Let me know if you have any other gems of advice once you get this done. How did you build your drawers?


I just picked up some 18" full extension slides from the borg. They came with a little instruction manual...mine are 1/2" and they came with screws. Where did you buy yours?

I am having a b***h of a time right now trying to get them all working right and to get the sides of my cabinet all square.

Good luck.
Greg

[Jack Ellis]

Is 1/2 inch overkill?

I'm about to do the same thing and will use 1/4" plywood in 5/16" dados.

1/2" isn't overkill but it's probably not necessary either.

[bill mullin]

Dwain,

In your OP, you mentioned 22" deep, and 24" wide, heavy duty slides and heavy loads. IMO, 1/4" ply bottoms won't cut it.

I'd go with at least 3/8" (or 11/32, whatever it is now) or 1/2".

[Dwain Lambrigger]

I will go with 1/2 all the way around.

[Greg Cuetara]

Dwain,
Finally got my drawer slides to go in. The sides of my cabinet were bowing out about 1/4" so the drawer slides would not line up. Once I figured that out I used some clamps to pull it back in...put the drawers in, let the clamps go and wah-lah everything works right now.

I would definatly suggest that you use 1/2" ply if you are thinking of putting anything in there which could weight anything. Better safe than sorry and easier and cheaper to build it in now. $5.50 is pretty good and probably worth no instructions or screws. I think I paid about $15 each for mine but I got instructions and screws.

Once I fix a few...ummm...oversights I will post in the projects forum.

Greg



I bought mine at a local hardwood dealer in Phoenix. I paid $5.50 per pair. I guess the good deal means I get no screws or instructions. The place I bought from is for professionals, so I guess those types of details are really necessary! Why do you think you are experiencing problems with squaring your cabinet? I know I had a lot of luck the last time I made a toybox, but I haven't tried a cabinet. My drawers are going into a NYW mitre station. No face frames or anything. Let me know if you have any other gems of advice once you get this done. How did you build your drawers?

[sean m. titmas]

1/2" for the bottoms of heavy duty drawers is plenty strong enough. 3/8" might serve just as well but if the price per sheet is close to 1/2" you might as well go with the thicker.

for medium duty drawers up to 16" wide i use 1/4" ply for the bottoms and use 4 glue blocks, 1 in the middle per side to stiffen the bottom. anything over 16" wide i use a 1/2" x 3" solid wood strong back placed in the center, front to back, on the bottom side which adds considerable strength to the drawer. i also add 2 glue blocks just on the sides. this has proven adequate for all light to moderate duty usage.

what are these "oversights" that you speak of? im curious to compare them to mine.

[Ed Peters]

I dado the sides front and back for the bottom that is rabbetted on all 4 sides. When glued together, these boxes will happilly double as jack stands. You didn't mention the joint you will be using to create your drawers. As to placement, I always mount my slides so that the assembly is below the drawer by about 1/16" or so. Then, when I install the cabinet portion flush with the opening in the faceframe I don't have any worries about the edges of the drawer rubbing when operated.

[Steve Clardy]

All good advice above.
One thing I'd stress tho, I always make my drawer boxes 1/16" (width) smaller than the industry standard.
So if the frame opening is 24", make the boxes 22 15/16".
Makes re-installing the drawers easier, slide easier, no binding.



Ditto that.

[Greg Cuetara]

what are these "oversights" that you speak of? im curious to compare them to mine.

Sean,
My big oversight is that I cut the front door about 1/16" to 1/8" too wide...guess it is better too big because all I have to do is rip it down a little bit...sand and re-finish. Not a big deal....the other thing is that I wanted to use euro hinges but won't be able to because of the drawers I have installed...I have to try and get over to Rockler and find some other hinges which will work on my cabinet.

Greg

[sean m. titmas]

Sean,
My big oversight is that I cut the front door about 1/16" to 1/8" too wide...guess it is better too big because all I have to do is rip it down a little bit...sand and re-finish. Not a big deal....the other thing is that I wanted to use euro hinges but won't be able to because of the drawers I have installed...I have to try and get over to Rockler and find some other hinges which will work on my cabinet.

Greg,
Iv been in similar situations as you mention but have yet not had a cabinet where some combination of euro hinge, plate, crank and slight fanagaling have worked out just fine.

what is the setup with the drawers that makes you think you cant use euros?

[Greg Cuetara]

Sean,
Basically I am planning on an inset door and the drawers are almost tight up against the door on the inside....
there are 4 drawers on the bottom so where i would screw in the euro the drawer isin the way...
Greg

[sean m. titmas]

if i understand correctly, the drawers are inside the cabinet?

if so than you can use a plywood strip built up to 1.25" to mount the drawer slides on to make the drawers smaller in width and pass by the hinge and face frame.

i can show you a Sketchup drawing after i get back to the office today.

[Greg Cuetara]

Sean,
Here is a link to the cabinet I have made.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_journal/woodworking/1273121.html

I modified the design about 5 or 6 years ago and this was my first WW project. I used 1/4" plywood for the sides and reduced the size of the rails and stiles on all sides to fit the wood which I had available.

Greg

[sean m. titmas]

greg,
how high are the drawers? if they are small enough you can just move the euro hinge up to above the drawer. you can go about 6" up from the bottom of the door without adversely affecting the adjustment of the hinge.

also if you use a "zero protrusion" hinge the door will open up past the interior of the cabinet which will give clearance for the drawers to slide open without hitting the door.

if moving the hinge up wont work than try using a knife hinge or offset knife hinge. (http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2000999/BRUSSO-Precision-Knife-Hinges.aspx) it will match the arts n crafts style better than a euro and will not interfere with the operation of the drawers no matter where they are placed.

i like euro hinges because of the versatility in applications and adjustments with easy on/off, and ease of installation. i use them whenever i can however there are times when a different style or type of hinge is appropriate and i think this is one of them.