Ripping on a band saw

[Art Bianconi]

Because my 25 year old Sears band saw was essentially junk, I didn't use it much and depended on a vertical mill or a planer to machine away the inevitable irregularities from the blade wandering.

I'd don't feel comfortable ripping narrow sections of wood. The table saw isn't very good and the radial saw, while a good one, makes me nervous, even with a push stick.

Attempts to rip using the band saw have been encouraging. The adjustable fence on the 17" Gorilla is really slick. A second fence or a feather-board on the other side of the cut has helped kept the material from wandering. I still have to finish the work with the planer but it's a vast improvement over other methods.

The majority of the cuts are for the purpose of making 3/4" square, soft wood framing materials, sometimes as much as 48" long. I will on occasion rip Sitka Spruce, poplar or an occasional hardwood

Am I doing this right?

Thanks

Art

[Steve Kohn]

Hey, whatever works for you. Especially if it is safer than trying to rip on a radial arm saw.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,

One word - Timberwolf.

(I let others w/more experience fill in the details)

[George Bregar]

I don't understand why a table saw wouldn't be very good at ripping narrow stock. With a wooden push stick and feather board nothing is better. Or safer.

[Art Bianconi]

I agree with you George. A good band saw would prove better.

The band saw I have however, is one of those cheap models purchased in haste on the other side of a costly divorce and I've lived with it for longer than I should.

All was not lost however, I won custody of my ten year old daughter. Compared to that, nothing else matters.

Art

[Jeff Wright]

I rip all my rails and stiles (and similarly dimensioned pieces) on the bandsaw. It's my understanding that unlike the table say, the BS's blades forces tend to push the workpiece DOWN against the table rather than catch and throw the piece upwards and backwards as can a table saw. I feel safer using the BS to rip. I then take the multiple workpieces and run them through the planer in groups of four or so to finish the dimension width-wise. Makes for perfectly identically wide rails and stiles. I find it a great way to dimension prior to assembling.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Did you adjust/tune your bandsaw? You need to set the blade in relation to the wheels, and the guides to the blade. Once that is done, and the blade stays put, all bandsaws will have a set "wander". Just set your fence to cut "straight" and you'll be fine. The wander is usually always the same. Once set, it will stay teh same until you change the blade.

Buying a good blade help a lot.

[George Bregar]

I rip all my rails and stiles (and similarly dimensioned pieces) on the bandsaw. It's my understanding that unlike the table say, the BS's blades forces tend to push the workpiece DOWN against the table rather than catch and throw the piece upwards and backwards as can a table saw. I feel safer using the BS to rip. I then take the multiple workpieces and run them through the planer in groups of four or so to finish the dimension width-wise. Makes for perfectly identically wide rails and stiles. I find it a great way to dimension prior to assembling. Well to each his own. Although you do have the small risk of kickback on a table saw, this can be eliminated simply by not standing behind the stock, you have a greater chance of being cut on a band saw....just less room to get the stock thru the cut. And having to then go to a planer for dimensioning is a waste of time, and stock.

[Tom Hargrove]

I prefer to rip thicker stock on a bandsaw. The kerf is smaller and there is really no risk of kickback. Even a properly set up tablesaw can kickback, especially if the strips are thin, or the wood is in tension. Even if you are not behind the board when it kicks, it is an unpleasant experience. Thin strips can also eject pieces on a table saw. DAMHIKT. This does not happen on the band saw.

I also run my stock parts through the planer in groups for the same reason - I get identically sized parts that are ready to scrape or sand.

[Curt Harms]

As long as I want to plane or joint the edge, the bandsaw feels much more "friendly", especially ripping small/narrow stuff. With a decent blade I only need to remove .02"-.03" per face. Of course, I need to plane/joint every piece. Cuts off the table saw usually don't need more than a few swipes with sandpaper, if that. I do agree with gang planing rails, stiles, face frames and such. As long as they're kept vertical the edges are perfect and the widths are identical.

[bob hertle]

Add another "vote" for ripping on the bandsaw. I too like to rip then edge joint and plane rails and stiles in groups. I won't say that I never rip on the tablesaw (25 year old Unisaw), but I will say that I'll never again rip rough sawn lumber on the tablesaw. Nor will I rip short or thin or otherwise "small" pieces on the tablesaw. All in all I find the bandsaw a much more "comfortable" machine to use. It's even capable of tablesaw smooth rips with the right blade. The tablesaw is my machine of choice for sheet goods.

Bob

[Peter Quinn]

I say use your best option. If your TS is junk, and you know it, and your BS is decent and set up with support for ripping the lengths you need, then great. I am very comfortable ripping on either, and for very small or rough parts I prefer the BS. I WILL NOT RIP ON THE RAS. I have a good one, but the geometry is the worst of all possible worlds there. I know hardcore RAS users that will disagree, but I think we all know they are not well.:rolleyes:

[Mike Cutler]

Art

You must be doing it right, or you would have asked the question; "What am I doing wrong?";) You're doing it pretty much the same way I do.:D

[Cody Colston]

I can see ripping on the bandsaw if 1. you don't like using the tablesaw and 2. you can leave the bandsaw set up with the preferred ripping blade and the fence adjusted for drift.

But, I frequently will rip a board(s) to width on the TS, trace a pattern onto it like for a Adirondack chair arm and then go to the bandsaw to make the curved cut.

If I'm depending on the bandsaw to do my ripping, then I will likely have to change the set-up and probably even the blade if I want to make a scrolling cut...unless I have more than one bandsaw.

I suppose it comes down to personal preference but the TS was invented for and excels at making rip cuts. The bandsaw excels at re-sawing wide boards and cutting curves.

I can cut a circle on the tablesaw but the better tool is the bandsaw. When making rip cuts, the better tool is the tablesaw.

[George Bregar]

Add another "vote" for ripping on the bandsaw. I too like to rip then edge joint and plane rails and stiles in groups. I won't say that I never rip on the tablesaw (25 year old Unisaw), but I will say that I'll never again rip rough sawn lumber on the tablesaw. Nor will I rip short or thin or otherwise "small" pieces on the tablesaw. All in all I find the bandsaw a much more "comfortable" machine to use. It's even capable of tablesaw smooth rips with the right blade. The tablesaw is my machine of choice for sheet goods.

Bob I find it surprising that you are uncomfirtable with the TS for ripping thin or short stock on the table saw, but choose it to cut sheet goods. I cut sheet goods to approximate size with a straight edge and circular saw and then move to the TS. :confused:

[bob hertle]

George,

I do much the same as you--I roughly break down full sheets with the circular saw and straight edge for ease of handling. I am lucky to have a huge permanent out feed table and right side extension table on the uni which, along with a very large homemade panel cutting fixture makes pretty quick work of the cut list. I just haven't done much in the way of sheet goods since my kitchen remodel in 2004. I have done quite a few solid wood furniture pieces, since then, and I tend to work with a lot of air-dried roughsawn stock, which I feel is only safe to rip on the bandsaw.

Regards

Bob

[George Bregar]

George,

I do much the same as you--I roughly break down full sheets with the circular saw and straight edge for ease of handling. I am lucky to have a huge permanent out feed table and right side extension table on the uni which, along with a very large homemade panel cutting fixture makes pretty quick work of the cut list. I just haven't done much in the way of sheet goods since my kitchen remodel in 2004. I have done quite a few solid wood furniture pieces, since then, and I tend to work with a lot of air-dried roughsawn stock, which I feel is only safe to rip on the bandsaw.

Regards

Bob Gotcha. I have cut sheets on the TS...never again.