Drawer Lock Joint on the RT

[glenn bradley]

I use this joint frequently when making kitchen or shop drawers. I this case it is for a small box that acts as a Brita water filter container stand. Setting the bit height takes a test pass or two on a new bit. Once I have the fit I make a setup block and toss it in the drawer. My old setup block still works for another bit but, this is a new bit and is just enough different to cause a new setup to be a good idea.

Once you have your fit, it is pretty straight forward. I've just found the following method to give me reliable results. YMMV.

A one piece, tall, ZCI fence face can be quickly made and attached to your existing fence or fence face.

123542 (http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=34791&d=1248397466)

I use a stacked feather board and a hand screw to ride the top of the fence. This give a good amount of control while keeping your pinkies away from the bit.

123543 (http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=34792&d=1248397466)

I use feather boards for this cut too but couldn't get a decent pic with them in place so . . . "removed for clarity".

123544 (http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=34793&d=1248397466)

This gives you a nice joint that is quite strong with just glue and not too unattractive if exposed.

123545

[Jim Rimmer]

Nice set of instructions. Thanks.

[Larry Frank]

I have used this joint a couple of times but not often enough. Everytime that I do, I have to figure it out again. Thanks for the instructions.

[John Morrison60]

Glenn

great tutorial.

I began using the DLM after reading a previous post from you about the joint.
I also have had great luck and good results from this usage.

My next drawer project calls for some drawers with taller fronts than sides.
Have you ever done a "stopped DLM"?

I am planning on making some prototypes, but I thought I would ask you
if you had ever done this, and maybe you might have some suggestions,
so I don't have to learn everything the hard way.



Thanks again
John

[glenn bradley]

My next drawer project calls for some drawers with taller fronts than sides. Have you ever done a "stopped DLM"?

Yes I have and I will emphasize proper setup and caution here. The stopped cut on one side of the drawer front is just that; a stopped cut. The stopped cut on the other side of the drawer front must be done from the "opposite" direction (so to speak).

If you try to climb cut AND perform a stopped cut you need a stop block to assure your material does not "get away". Now at the end of the cut your material is captured on three sides . . . very 'double-plus ungood' in my opinion. You can leave a little bit of exposed profile at the stop point or stop a bit shorter and chisel the end of the stopped cut square as fits your goal.

P.s. After thinking about this I guess my real recommendation would be an alternate joint like a stopped DT for the front. Trapped cuts make me nervous ;-)

[Bob Genovesi]

Glenn,

Great tutorial, thanks for posting and a damn nice joint to boot!

[Peter Quinn]

Nice tutorial Glenn. I can remember the first time I set up one of those, man that was a long afternoon. But it is a great joint and I can't think of any drawer joint that has the same speed of production to strength ratio. I tried to smash my test pieces and they don;t give up easy. I made a set of QSWO pantry drawers for my mother's canning closet that held over 100# each on over travel slides, never a problem.

I just got a drawer lock insert carbide shaper cutter, brand new, from a flea market tool vendor, for $20, which I think was less than I paid for the router bit IIR. Small gloat there. It actually came with rather clear instructions unlike the router bit. I haven't used it yet. Now I have to make set up blocks all over again because this one is metric!