Angus MacGyver
07-23-2009, 2:04 PM
-- This is a follow-up from yesterday's urgent request for help --
Original thread with pictures - http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=116757
First, thank you all for the help. I really appreciated the fast information and numerous opinions. It was enormously helpful and it was great to have old masters to turn to.
I went out to take a look at the saw last night. I walked away - should I have? Should I go back?
Motor started easily. I cut a couple light pieces, and it ran through it like butter and with no hesitation. Felt balanced and smooth, and made me wish I had a nickle.
Based on the recommendations I got here, I let the motor run for 10 mins, turned it off, and felt for heat. The part of the motor furthest to the outside was cold. The housing deepest into the cabinet was lightly warm, but nowhere near hot.
I talked him down to $275. I figured I could buy a new fence, salvage the miter and have a G1023 for under $500 and some elbow grease.
Then I turned the saw on one last time. While holding in the green power button, the motor jumped to life. When I released it, the motor quit. Press, start. Let go, stop. Not good. I tried this a couple more times, then it quit responding altogether. I waited a couple mins and tried again. Again the motor started while the green button was held down, and quit on release.
Owner said that this had never happened...but then he never found a need to let it run under no load for 10 minutes, then horse around with the switch.
I would have considered this to be the over-heating mechanism, and possibly a sign of a failing motor. It would be a bit odd since the motor housing only felt warm, not hot.
What do you think? What is the problem? Should I go back?
I mean, $275 for a 3hp G1023 seems a darn good starting point. However, adding $300 for a new motor is not. And, I talked to a couple folks that said they were sure it was the switch, not the motor. The switch (if it needs replaced, rather than cleaned) is $60.
Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.
A bit more information:
The rust on the pics was light surface rust. He has it in an oversized shed/barn. Very safe from the elements, but not the humidity. The inside of the cabinet looked fine - the only rust I could see was on the underside of the table, and on the exposed part of the top pulley.The rest looked good.
The fence was clearly shot and the miter will require work. Blade moved up/down/tilted easily. Light rust on the blade also.
Thank again in advance,
Pete
Original thread with pictures - http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=116757
First, thank you all for the help. I really appreciated the fast information and numerous opinions. It was enormously helpful and it was great to have old masters to turn to.
I went out to take a look at the saw last night. I walked away - should I have? Should I go back?
Motor started easily. I cut a couple light pieces, and it ran through it like butter and with no hesitation. Felt balanced and smooth, and made me wish I had a nickle.
Based on the recommendations I got here, I let the motor run for 10 mins, turned it off, and felt for heat. The part of the motor furthest to the outside was cold. The housing deepest into the cabinet was lightly warm, but nowhere near hot.
I talked him down to $275. I figured I could buy a new fence, salvage the miter and have a G1023 for under $500 and some elbow grease.
Then I turned the saw on one last time. While holding in the green power button, the motor jumped to life. When I released it, the motor quit. Press, start. Let go, stop. Not good. I tried this a couple more times, then it quit responding altogether. I waited a couple mins and tried again. Again the motor started while the green button was held down, and quit on release.
Owner said that this had never happened...but then he never found a need to let it run under no load for 10 minutes, then horse around with the switch.
I would have considered this to be the over-heating mechanism, and possibly a sign of a failing motor. It would be a bit odd since the motor housing only felt warm, not hot.
What do you think? What is the problem? Should I go back?
I mean, $275 for a 3hp G1023 seems a darn good starting point. However, adding $300 for a new motor is not. And, I talked to a couple folks that said they were sure it was the switch, not the motor. The switch (if it needs replaced, rather than cleaned) is $60.
Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.
A bit more information:
The rust on the pics was light surface rust. He has it in an oversized shed/barn. Very safe from the elements, but not the humidity. The inside of the cabinet looked fine - the only rust I could see was on the underside of the table, and on the exposed part of the top pulley.The rest looked good.
The fence was clearly shot and the miter will require work. Blade moved up/down/tilted easily. Light rust on the blade also.
Thank again in advance,
Pete