Better method for flushing up plywood edges

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Hi All, I'm gluing some 3/4" poplar wood to the edges of plywood panels I'm using in a project. The poplar strips are about 1/8" oversize for the plywood and when I use a straigt bit with bearing to flush it I get a lot of splintering in the poplar. Is there a better way of doing this? I've seen this method many times but it doesn't seem to work for me. Maybe my bit is dull. What method do you use? Thanks Alan in Md.

[Mark Singer]

Alan,
If you cut it the exact size...then just sand it a bit by hand.

[Mathew Nedeljko]

Alan, if the overhang is small you might try climb cutting it with the same router bit, which I find eliminates any splintering.

Just make sure you are careful with the router as you approach the end of the workpiece.

[Mike Palmer]

Alan, you will need to climb cut the overhang in order to keep it from splintering. I made a jig that uses a trim router on a sled so that I can lay the plywood flat on a bench. It is very difficult to trim in the vertical position because you don't have much support for the router. The jig can handle up to about 3/4" of edging. It also has a pivot point so you can vary the distance from the piece. The router base sets the depth.

[Greg Tatum]

Hi Alan....would a spiral bit work better? It would shear the wood instead of chopping at it.
greg

[Thomas Prondzinski]

Alan

I would use a cabinet scraper.



Tom

[mike lucas]

Mike Palmer;

That is a very nice jig! Would you care if I make a copy of it? Well it won't be a copy persay, because I have no plans:( There have been hundreds of times one of those would come in handy.

Thanks in advance, because being the nice guy you are, I just know will will say I can.:D :D :D

[Tyler Howell]

Very Nice Jig..... I'm steeling the idea:D
I use masking tape on the plywood as you edge guide when attaching your banding, then sand down to it the plywood. Works good;)

[Mike Palmer]

Anyone who want to build a copy is more than welcome to do so. It is a simple but effective jig. The main thing to keep in mind is to make the base substantial because it does 2 tings. 1 - the thickness provides a large surface for the vertical piece to connect. This will keeps the side piece from flexing with the trim router in the horizontal position. 2 - Extra weight and surface area add to the stability.

I hope this helps.

[Chris Padilla]

Alan,

If you have a router table, put in a nice shear cut flush-trim bit (CMT makes one, that is what I use) and then raise the fence a bit off the table to clear the edge-banding and go for it. I do this all the time and I have no splintering problems and you have great support from the table and fence to get a nice clean cut.

I haven't done this with poplar but I have done it with oak and birch...works fabby! :)

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Hi All, I'm going to make one of Mike's jigs also; it seems like a good way to go. Tyler, thanks for the tape idea. Chris, I have to get one of those shear cut flush trim bits and give it a try. I do have some spirat bits that I'm going to practice with and see how it goes. And I'm going to use Mark Singer's method of getting just the right width and then not have to trim at all. So many options! Thanks again guys. :) Alan in Md.

[Jamie Buxton]

If I'm just doing a few edges, I generally do it with a handplane. (Y'all might recognize me as a guy who wants to get things done quickly. This is an operation where hand tools do work quickly.) I put the panel down flat on the bench. I have a flood lamp which I sit out in the shop a ways, at a height somewhat above the bench height. Lit with that lamp, the lumber edge casts a long shadow across the panel. As I plane down, that shadow gets shorter and shorter. It gives a very obvious indicator of how much more I need to plane. It is really pretty easy to get the lumber edge within .02" or .01" of the panel surface -- close enough for the sander to easily clean it up -- yet not dig into the panel itself.

(added in edit)
Here's a picture of the setup. Notice the long shadow cast across the panel by the lumber edge. Because of the low angle of the floodlight, the shadow is many many times longer than the lumber edge is tall. I watch the length of the shadow as I plane, and stop when it gets pretty short.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Jamie, Thanks for the pic. It's nice to do things "the quiet way" sometimes isn't it? Good time to hone my planing skills. Thanks Alan in Md.

[Steve Clardy]

Mike. Great looking jig and well thought out.;) I had no time for making something to flush up shelving edges, and was thinging about buying a lipping planer. But at $500.00 for one of those, I looked around and bought a pre-made base from Pat Warner. Pat makes all kind of router accessories and is reasonable on costs.:D
I have been going to do a review on this here, but due to lack of time I haven't gotten it done. So here is a quick pic of what it is.
I use a 1 1/4" mortise bit.
Steve

[Jamie Buxton]

I use something like Steve's offset base to trim lumber edges in a somewhat different situation. I fairly often put edging on all four edges of a panel -- for instance for doors or desk tops. Typically I miter the ends of the edging and glue them all on before I trim them flush to the surface. My hand-plane technique doesn't work. Mike's style of jig hangs up near the corner, and flush-trim router bits don't work cleanly either. I'm not sure the fancy lipping planers which Steve mentions will work well there. Steve's offset base approach can be made to work even into the corner. The part sliding on the panel needs to be pointy so it will fit in there. I can't tell from Steve's pic, but I think it is straight, and so wouldn't quite do what I'm describing.

[Jim Becker]

Strange as it may sound coming from me, I use my low-angle block plane to take things down "almost" to where it needs to be and then a cabinet scraper or sanding to finish it off. This does require taking a little care, but works well...and you can still listen to the radio while processing those edges.

[Mike Palmer]

I use something like Steve's offset base to trim lumber edges in a somewhat different situation. I fairly often put edging on all four edges of a panel -- for instance for doors or desk tops. Typically I miter the ends of the edging and glue them all on before I trim them flush to the surface. My hand-plane technique doesn't work. Mike's style of jig hangs up near the corner, and flush-trim router bits don't work cleanly either. I'm not sure the fancy lipping planers which Steve mentions will work well there. Steve's offset base approach can be made to work even into the corner. The part sliding on the panel needs to be pointy so it will fit in there. I can't tell from Steve's pic, but I think it is straight, and so wouldn't quite do what I'm describing.

Your right Jamie. The jig above does not work for four sided items. In those cases I use my lipping planer or I have another jig similiar to Steve's. The only difference is it has an additional offset. For a four sided piece, you need to get to the outside of the trim and work your way in. Therefore, the router base is not completely flat across the bottom. The area under the router is about 1/2" less in thickness from the base that rides on top of the piece. This way I can start with the router bit (Planer Bit) outside of the trim.

[Jamie Buxton]

Okay, here's pix of my router device which trims lumber edging applied to four sides of a panel.

The first pic is from the top side. There's no edge to be trimmed in this picture; imagine it on the right side of the board, directly under the router bit. Notice the big counterbalance at the left side of the jig. One issue with this offset technique is that you can tilt the jig and gouge the edging. The counterbalance reduces that threat. This particular jig is a U-channel so that it is nice and stiff all the way out to the right, where half the weight of the router rests.

The second pic is the underside of the device. The area to the left of the bit slides on the panel face. The area to the right of the bit hangs off the edge of the workpiece, and exists only to support the router itself. Notice that the area to the left of the bit is pointy, and fits into corners so the jig can trim edging on all four sides.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Hi Jamie, I don't get exactly how your jig works. Will it work on 3/4" wide banding? Is it limited by the distance between the points on the jig bottom? O.K. last question :) Is that a handle on the left side in the first pic? It would seem that one of the triangular bases would have to be thinner for this to work. I'm sure it does; I just can't figure it out. :mad: Thanks Alan in Md.

[Jamie Buxton]

Hi Jamie, I don't get exactly how your jig works. Will it work on 3/4" wide banding? Is it limited by the distance between the points on the jig bottom? O.K. last question :) Is that a handle on the left side in the first pic? It would seem that one of the triangular bases would have to be thinner for this to work. I'm sure it does; I just can't figure it out. :mad: Thanks Alan in Md.

Alan, this discussion has wandered a little bit away from your original question. I use this jig only when I'm working on edging which is applied to multiple edges on a panel. If you're doing just one edge, which is commonly the case, I prefer the handplane method I discussed earlier in this thread.

However, to answer your questions about this router jig...

* It can work on banding which is 3/4" wide. As you surmise, the gap between those points would need to be at least 3/4". There's really no reason for mine to be as close as they are. The plywood to the right of the points exists only to support the router. I could remove it almost all the way out to the screw which goes up into the router, and there would be no difference in performance or operation. In operation, this whole area to the right of the bit doesn't touch anything. It just hangs out in space off the panel.

* I think the thing that you're seeing as a handle is what I was calling a counterweight. It is a pile of big steel washers I happened to have around. Come to think of it, I might actually use it as a handle. The hazard with this kind of jig is that it can tilt down to the right, and the bit will gouge the top of the edging -- accompanied by lots of very bad language. Downward force on the left side prevents that tilt.

Did I answer your questions?

[Todd Burch]

Alan, I try not to put myself in the situation of needed to get a front edging flush.

For most fixed shelves that I make, I leave about a 1/8" lip overhang by the face frame.

For adjustable shelves, prior to glueing on the front edging, I will take a chamfer bit in a trim router and remove a 1/16"th or less of corner. I do this in the MDF, plywood or solid wood - whatever the shelf is made from. I do the edging too. Putting a chamfer on both pieces leaves a "v" groove between the pieces, and allows you to be a little off. Since there is a change in plane, your eye is not as apt to see an edging that is a bit high or low. And, everything can be sanded prior to applying the edging.

Now, for that high $$ piece, I won't do this. But, for the majority of stuff, it's a good, fast way to go. Todd

[Jamie Buxton]

One more thought...

I almost never make edge-banding which is 3/4" thick. I more often aim at 3/16" or so. 3/4" edging is a lot of work to trim flush, plus it adds to your material costs. 3/16" doesn't have those issues. Go much thinner than 3/16", and you can't reliably run it through the planer to get a clean glue face. Also, go thinner than 3/16 and you may not be able to round over the corners or bevel 'em or whatever you do.

Jamie

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Thanks Jamie, you cleared up my questions on the jig. What you say makes sense about using 3/16" for the edging. But I'm following plans and that is what they call for wrapping a 3/4" plywood panel. Thanks for the ideas. Alan

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Alan, I try not to put myself in the situation of needed to get a front edging flush.

For most fixed shelves that I make, I leave about a 1/8" lip overhang by the face frame.

For adjustable shelves, prior to glueing on the front edging, I will take a chamfer bit in a trim router and remove a 1/16"th or less of corner. I do this in the MDF, plywood or solid wood - whatever the shelf is made from. I do the edging too. Putting a chamfer on both pieces leaves a "v" groove between the pieces, and allows you to be a little off. Since there is a change in plane, your eye is not as apt to see an edging that is a bit high or low. And, everything can be sanded prior to applying the edging.

Now, for that high $$ piece, I won't do this. But, for the majority of stuff, it's a good, fast way to go. Todd



I haven't seen you here for a while. That's a neat trick with the "V" groove and I'm going to try that some day. Take care, Alan