is sawing a log with a chainsaw hard?

[Justin Cavender]

I was given an ash log 16" wide 6' long I want to saw it with a chainsaw how hard is this to do?

[Rick Levine]

I'll bite. Is this a trick question? What do you think chainsaws were invented for? Sorry if I sound sarcastic but I had to respond to you. Please don't take offense. It will be harder if you have a dull chain. You might want an extra chain depending on how many cuts you plan since ash is a pretty hard wood.

[Cody Colston]

It's a lot of work, even with the right set-up...which is a big saw, a rip chain and some sort of guide like an Alaskan Sawmill.

I routinely saw short logs (<20" long) in half or even make four slices through it to get two rectangular turning blanks. Only I'm sawing with the long grain and get long shavings coming off the chain. Even that gets real close to work sometimes.

If you are thinking about sawing at right angles to the log for the entire length, several times, to slice 6' long boards out of it, you are in for some rough work and a lot of chain sharpening.

You will be cutting end grain the entire way which is tough on the cross-cut chain, produces dust rather than shavings and will shake your teeth out. But, I suppose it can be done with enough perseverence.

[Justin Cavender]

No offense taken I just don't know how to go about doing this. there isnt a sawyer around who will set up for less than 500bf and I dont want to haul these logs all the way to him and back.

[Rick Levine]

Like Cody says, you might want to get a rip chain or two as well as one of these if you want planks out of the log:

[Myk Rian]

I saw a Youtube video or several where they used gunpowder to split oak logs. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3SUuUzAieig&feature=related

[David DeCristoforo]

"...how hard is this to do?"

Compared to what?

[Art Kelly]

No offense taken I just don't know how to go about doing this. there isnt a sawyer around who will set up for less than 500bf and I dont want to haul these logs all the way to him and back.

I sawed a silk oak tree about that size into 8' boards with a Craftsman electric chainsaw. It was time consuming, but not real hard. You have to enter the log at an angle because cutting across the end grain is a fool's errand. Also, by entering at an angle you can get the bar lined up a lot better--just like using a handsaw. I never sharpened my chain the whole time, IIRC.

If I had to do it again, I'd be talking to a sawyer because doing it with a chainsaw wastes a lot of wood. I marked mine at about 2" and ended up with dressed lumber about 1-1/4" thick once all the saw marks were gone. (I sawed it freehand.)

I'm guessing by going to a mill, you'll gain at least one more board.

Just depends on how valuable you think the wood is.

Art

[george wilson]

If any of you saw the large cider press I posted many pages ago in the Neander section,i had to rip a 3 1/2" dia. hickory log with a chainsaw. It was at least 10' long,and it was killer on my back. I was in my 40's then,but still had back trouble.

[Pete Bradley]

Turning that log into planks with a chain saw is not easy. Chain saws want to crosscut, and I've found even rip chains are slow. Then you have to have a way to run the saw straight. There are guides or jigs for this, but they're not cheap compared to a few ash boards and they require a saw with a bar much longer than the diameter of the log.

If it were me, I'd probably cut two opposed sides off with a chain saw, then sled it through my bandsaw (assumes a band saw that can take the weight and cut the 13" or so cant). Maybe you could quarter the log lengthways with wedges (not fun with ash, but probably doable), then sled the quarters through the band saw. The simplest approach would be to cut it into 2' lengths, split it into blocks, and use it for mallet heads, etc. It will take a couple of years to dry if the blocks are thick.

Ash has an interlocking grain that generally gets lots of small checks in the cut ends rather than big long ones. That's a good thing, but you still should coat the cut ends with paraffin, paint, or log sealer ASAP.

[Darius Ferlas]

My first thought wouldn't be about how hard it is to do the job with the chainsaw but rather about how much waste that would generate.

[Leo Vogel]

Justin - a chain saw is one of the most dangerous tools to use, especially if you are not familiar with their use. What you are wanting to do is not easy, and potentially dangerous. I don't think the reward is worth the risk of a major accident.

[Greg Magone]

Justin,

I own some land that has huge maple trees, lots of alder, and a few cherries. As a woodworker, I have been very interested in turning this wood into nice boards for use in my shop. Unfortunately, I have not found anything reassuring that it is a good use of my time.

As others have posted on here, a rip chain is a must if you are ripping with the chainsaw. I had a large maple tree that I decided to rip after I had cut it into a 18" long block because it was too heavy. (The darn thing was 36" inches in diameter and I couldn't move it.) I didn't get more than 9 inches down the log before my chain was worthless.

The other problem a guy has is the wood is green. It will take 1-2 years for it to dry out, and you'll need a place to store it out of the elements stacked neatly (called stickered) in a manner that allows the air to flow. You may or may not have the room for this.

However, here is a bit of good news. Do you enjoy turning at all? If so, you can block it up and then turn it on the lathe. At 16", you may need to cut it down on a bandsaw first before chucking it into your lathe. From what I understand, turners prefer green wood for a variety of reasons and it doesn't split. What I have read indicates that it is best to cut off only the amount you want to use.

Good luck!

[Mark Norman]

Couldda cut it up in the time it took to read this thread...Just duit!
Not hard at all with a strong back and a sharp chain.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

OK, I just want to add my .02. In addition to the above.
If you don't know how hard it is to chainsaw a log, you obviously don't own one. First problem in you'll need to rent/buy one. If you buy one get a good one, and NOT an electric, or a BORG model. Get a quality saw, because you'll need it to cut that monster log. As mentioned a rip chain and a spare would help.

Second and most important. Get someone who knows how to use a saw to help you out. A chainsaw, if you don't know what you're doing, can certainly kill you. No offense intended.

Third, a chainsaw is a most useful tool. You can do lots of things with one. Hunt down trees and get free wood. If you have a lathe, you should never again have to buy blanks!

If you were anywhere near me, I'd jump in my truck and help you cut the log...

[John Keeton]

Justin, I would see if I could get a good sledge, perhaps a froe, and a couple of wedges, and try to split the log. That won't be easy, either, but it probably will go quicker than the chainsaw. It is safer, no waste, and you will get rived wood that is with the grain. Just a thought. I have used a chainsaw quite a bit, and I wouldn't even consider this task as being worth the effort. Ash is going to be very obtainable in the near future with the ash borers spreading rapidly. It will be like chestnut - lots of it, cheap, and then no more!

[Allan Froehlich]

I just bought a Stihl MS290 for this specific task.

I tried ripping a 2 foot long by 1.5 foot across log down the center to see how easily it can be done. It took me about 10 minutes to accomplish this with a very sharp blade. The saw only bogged when I forced it. I think that an Alaskan Mill will make the task a lot easier.

I'd say that the chainsaw would be the real limiting factor.

[Randy Cohen]

I think John has the right idea.....split it first with a sledge and some wedges. It is pretty easy to do if you can avoid any knots.

[Pete Bradley]

Couldda cut it up in the time it took to read this thread...Just duit!
Not hard at all with a strong back and a sharp chain.

He'd not looking to cut it up, he wants to rip it into boards. You're not gonna do that fast with a chainsaw no matter how strong your back is. :D

[Greg Hines, MD]

You would do much better to find someone with a portable sawmill. Chainsawing a log is hard work. The other problem, if you do not have some kind of guide, is keeping your boards square. The guides help with keeping a consistent thickness, but you may still have some twist to it.

Doc

[Gary Muto]

That's a good idea

[Chip Lindley]

Chainsawing lumber is Very Wasteful, and expensive to get started, buying a decent chainsaw with 20" or 24" bar, and a jig such as the Alaskan Chainsaw Mill to track the saw. Chainsawing wastes almost 1/3 of your wood! Each kerf is 3/8" or more! Thats LOTS of Sawdust!

Bandsaw mills are the WAY TO GO! With only a 1/16+" kerf, it is said that you get every 5th board FREE! I have had much nice lumber sawed by a retiree with a very nice WoodMizer top-of-the-line mill! He charges very little IF I haul the logs to him and handle the lumber as it comes off the mill, stacking it back in my truck. I haul my bark slabs back home also to feed the woodstove!

Try to strike a deal with the sawyer. Many have portable bandsaw mills and will gladly cut your log(s) with another batch they are doing, IF YOU BRING THE LOGS TO THEM. Much cheaper to borrow a truck or rent a trailer to haul the logs, than to invest in a BIG chainsaw rig for just a few logs. Chainsaws are DANGEROUS in untrained hands!! I cannot over-emphasize this Enough!

[Scott Coffelt]

Not that I have tried it, but what about a porta-bandsaw? Takes a much smaller blade so minimal waste. Could one get a 2-3 tooth blade for one of those. Again, never used one but wonder if one fo those could be rented and used. Maybe one could rig up a jig to slide it along. Seems like a similar design to some mills I have seen.

[Tom Walz]

Chain Saws are very dangerous. I have used them 40 years including using them professionally as a logger and they sill scare me.

Steel or titanium toed boots are a really good idea. So are chaps, hard hat as well as eye and ear protection. Good gloves help with the vibration they have some good safety gloves out.

You can do this but it is going to be a lot of boring work. You are going to get very tired and it will be tough concentrating. In the mean time the saw will be vibrating and wanting to drift and twist. Chain saws can get away from you. Chains can come off. Bars come loose.

A table saw takes fingers and a chain saw takes arms or legs. Before you rent one and start cutting find someone who can show you how to do so safely.

[John Keeton]

Each kerf is 3/8" or more! Thats LOTS of Sawdust!And, that is only if you can keep the chainsaw traveling in a straight line - no small feat on a 6' cut with the grain.

[David Keller NC]

Justin - You don't say how you want to cut the log - the other posters have assumed that you want to rip it (which will yield boards) rather than cross-cut it (which will yield either turning blanks or firewood depending on your needs).

My guess is that you wish to cut this down into guitar necks, in which case you're talking about ripping (cutting along the grain). If instead you want guitar body blanks, that's a bit easier because you can cut the log in half into 2 three foot long sections, and figure you'll lose about a foot off of each blank to end checking.

I have an Granberg International Alaskan chainsaw lumber mill, a Stihl 066 Magnum, a 4 foot bar, and various rip chains. I've sawn up quite a few red oak and white oak monster logs, so I can give you an idea of the difficulty.

You really cannot do this without a monster chainsaw and a chainsaw guide (like the Alaskan). It -might- be possible to do if you're ripping 3 foot long sections of the log without one, but a 6 foot long section will pretty much require it. Even with an 066 magnum (one step down from the biggest saw Stihl makes), it takes roughly 20 lbs of force against the saw in the direction of the cut, continuously, to make about 3 inches a minute in a 20" diameter red oak log. 20 lbs. might not sound like much, but when you have to push against the saw continuously, you will be one tired puppy at the end of the day (I certainly am).

The reason so much power (from the saw and you) is required is that, as other posters have noted, you're cutting end-grain, which is very much harder than face or edge grain.

So - I think you can see that ripping one 6' long ash log into boards is not a practical way to save any money, because you'll need about $1100 to buy the saw, the rip chains, a power sharpener, and the chainsaw jig (the lumber mill). If you're going to do it on a regular basis in a location that is inaccessible to a trailer-mounted bandsaw mill, that's a different story.

Finally, and even though ash does not split easily, what John suggested is the quickest, least labor intensive, and cheapest way to get guitar neck blanks and guitar body blanks - a few wedges and a sledge hammer are really cheap in comparison to a chainsaw lumber mill.

[Cody Colston]

No offense taken I just don't know how to go about doing this. there isnt a sawyer around who will set up for less than 500bf and I dont want to haul these logs all the way to him and back.

At .30 cents per bf, the 500 ft. minimum is only $150. That's probably less than renting a large chain saw for a day and if you count your labor, considerably less.

If you are set on sawing up the log, I'd haul it to a sawyer...in fact, I have a friend who regularly gives me Cedar logs off his place as he clears it. When he has a trailer load, I go pick them up and haul them to a local sawmill to be sawn into 5/4 planks. I usually get 300-400 bf per trailer load for less than $1.00 per bf including my gas.

[Justin Cavender]

I am wanting 10/4 slabs for making electric guitar bodies Ash is a great wood for electric guitars has lots of sustain and is very stable. I have located a come along truck and trailer to borrow and a place to dry it so I am going to haul it to the sawyer. Will waxing the ends and stacking and stickering under a deck be a good place to dry it?

[Cody Colston]

Will waxing the ends and stacking and stickering under a deck be a good place to dry it?

Under a deck will be okay if 1. It is covered from the rain and 2. It gets plenty of air flow. Make sure it is well off the ground and if more than one layer, be sure and place the stickers directly above each other.

I think you made a good decision about taking it to a sawyer.

[James Carmichael]

I'll bite. Is this a trick question? What do you think chainsaws were invented for? Sorry if I sound sarcastic but I had to respond to you. Please don't take offense. It will be harder if you have a dull chain. You might want an extra chain depending on how many cuts you plan since ash is a pretty hard wood.

I'm pretty sure he means milling the log, not felling. The latter is what chainsaws were invented for, the former is a beating for chainsaw and operator.

Unless you intend to get into milling your own lumber on a regular basis, I'd take it to a mill.

There's various forms of chainsaw mills, going from a couple hundred bucks to the $2k price range (just for the mill). For regular milling, a commercial chainsaw (e.g. Stihl or Husqvarna) minimum 70cc, is recommended.

Google Logosol and go to their site. They're a mfr of higher-end CS mills for the hobbyist. They have a search for registered mill owners you could contact. If there's one near you, they may mill your log for free and/or let you try it out (I expect you'd have to take it to them, though).

As you can see, I've researched this considerbly as I have access to many acres of hardwoods, but concluded that pushing 50 and degenerative disk & joint disease starting to take hold, running a big chainsaw all day just wasn't going to be much fun anymore.

If I ever get around to harvesting much timber, I'll locate a portable mill.

[Nathan Callender]

Justin -

I've used a large chainsaw several times before. I had a few large trees (18-24" diameter) taken down on our property and the people who did the work decided to roll the 4-6' logs into the brush at the back of the property and hide them instead of hauling them away. Nice.

I cross cut the logs into pieces I could split. Made some firewood and the rest I split into pieces I could lift to get them up a hill and hauled away. They were red oak trees and I gave it a shot at ripping a few into boards - no go. It's not fun, it's really slow, and I'd hate to pinch the bar and have something come flying back at me. To me, the risk of doing it will a chain saw is not worth the cost of buying the same wood from a lumber yard.

Like others have said, you can cross cut the logs with a chain saw pretty well, but here's another thought. Just find a long, sharp rip hand saw (yeah, I said it :-) ) if you really want to do this. Believe me, a good rip hand saw, box saw or similar will do the job and you'll get buff while you're at it.

Of course, the practical answer is to haul it to a sawyer and have it sawn up, but I understand the desire to do it yourself. So, if it were me and I wanted to do it for some other reason than saving money, I'd try splitting the log in half and either putting it on a band saw or use a hand saw to rough it out.

[Rick Levine]

I have a Stihl 361 and when I first got it I tried splitting a couple of old 12" diameter posts and it was very hard on the saw. It created a lot of smoke and I quickly abandon the task.

I did some research by calling my local Stihl dealer and they can supply me with a chain modified for ripping ($30 for the chain, $20 to modify it) that would be $100 if I want an extra chain. Since I live in New Mexico and there aren't many large trees near where I live, mostly Pinion an Juniper, I decided not to go that route. Fortunately I have a sawmill nearby and have a good relationship with the owner I think I'll stick to taking any logs I may happen upon to him. He gives me a good deal if I bring him a log and let him keep it until he has a big order. He'll lump it in with that to reduce my price. This may take a month or two but it might be something other sawmills would offer.

[Jim King]

We do low impact logging with plain chainsaws cutting about 25,000 board feet a month and carrying out the 4´-6" long cants to a loading point 3 to 5 miles.

It just depends on what you think of as work.

[Rob Russell]

Do yourself a favor and get the ends of the logs sealed ASAP with Anchorseal. That will slow down the checking and it's a lot easier to coat the end of a log than to coat the ends of a bunch of boards. I know that because we were sawing one time when it was so cold that the Anchorseal froze, so I had no choice but to go back afterwards and seal the individual boards.

[Jeff Booth]

I'm with the guy that said just get off the computer and just get to it. All the thoughts about wasted lumber and the time to rip etc apply when you are thinking about slabbing lots of logs. But one log? Or even ten logs? Unless it is some very valueable log then just get on with it .....

I will say if the chain is dull it is worth addressing, because the chain needs to be sharpened anyhow ..... I purchased a mid size Husky (357XP) just to slab logs that people give me. But for years I used to borrow my brother's small Husky and that worked just fine too. My approach is to use the chainsaw to get the log manageable to get onto the bandsaw. Because I am not in a hurry, I air dry the lumber in 16/4 sized slabs for at least 2 years before I think about putting it onto the bandsaw ... by then it is dry enough not to make a wet mess on the bandsaw .....

Also the poster that suggested the anchorseal, I agree with that too, if it is green, seal it asap.

Just my opinion.

Jeff