Anyone cut their Incra 1000se, for 45s

[Bill Huber]

I had a chance to pick up a 1000se at a very good price so I got it. Looks really good so far, there are some things I don't like to well but it still looks good.

One thing that really disappointed me was the fact that you can not tilt the blade over with it and cut angles. So I was thinking of just cutting it off at a 45 like my EB-3 is.

What do you think.

[James Williams 007]

Why dont you just put a sacrificial board on there?

[Bill Huber]

Why dont you just put a sacrificial board on there?

But you would have to move the main fence over so far to do that. I am not sure you could move it over that far and still have all 3 of the bolts holding it.

[Curt Harms]

It came with about an 18" fence and no flip stop mechanism. I found the fence design awkward. I thought it was silly and rolled my own fence with 3/4" ply and 2 pieces of aluminum T track, one in back to attach the fence to the miter gauge and one along the top for a stop. My miter gauge has 2 bolts that hold the fence to the miter gauge body. I replaced the original allen screws with T nuts and knobs so I don't need the "screwdriver" to move the fence. There's no reason to limit yourself to one fence if you don't want to, have one fence beveled and one not.

HTH

Curt

[Brian Kerley]

I had a chance to pick up a 1000se at a very good price so I got it. Looks really good so far, there are some things I don't like to well but it still looks good.

One thing that really disappointed me was the fact that you can not tilt the blade over with it and cut angles. So I was thinking of just cutting it off at a 45 like my EB-3 is.

What do you think.

That's why I started using my Incra on the "other" side of the blade so I could have support right up next to the blade

[Matt Day]

Personally I don't think it's that big of a deal because you're talking about what, 2.5" of unsupported wood if you have the blade beveled at a 45?

But, I don't see why you couldn't cut the fence at a 45.

I'm very happy with my 1000se and like the design a lot.

[Doug Shepard]

It's a pretty simple operation:D
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=67961

[Gary Muto]

It's a pretty simple operation
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=67961

That pretty funny. I have a slight nick on the bottom of my 1000se fence. It has served as a good reminder. I love the photo... laughed out loud.

[Ed Sallee]

When I cut bevels using my 1000SE, I take off the incra fence completely and mount a sacraficial board as the fence. I then do the stop blocks the old fashioned way.

As a matter of fact, I rarely use the fence that came with it. But, I do like the miter and I do cut a lot of 45's with it.....

[Don Abele]

I nearly cut my 1000SE in half. It was a week or so after I bought it so I wasn't accustom to using it. I needed to put the miter to the right of the blade (don't remember why) and without hesitation I shifted sides and pushed it right into the blade. :eek: Yeah, you can get away with that with the standard gauge.

This happened for the same reason mentioned by Doug in his linked thread - I was so focused on the point of cut that I didn't follow the cut line back to see the HUGE fence sitting there waiting to be bitten.

In regards to the 45 cuts though, I always put the keeper piece on the left (left-tilt saw) so I don't have the potential to trap the cut-off piece under the blade. I guess this thought process also helps remind me to slide the fence back. Though now I'm thinking...why not cut the fence at 45?

Doug - does yours still have the partial cut or did you finish it all the way through?

Be well,

Doc

[Curt Harms]

I nearly cut my 1000SE in half. It was a week or so after I bought it so I wasn't accustom to using it. I needed to put the miter to the right of the blade (don't remember why) and without hesitation I shifted sides and pushed it right into the blade.
Doc

Boy, I'm glad I'VE never done anything like that




:o



Did I mention that roll-your-own fences are a good idea?


Destroy evidence? Me??
:D

[Doug Shepard]

....Doug - does yours still have the partial cut or did you finish it all the way through?
...

Doc

It still looks just like the pic.

[Bill Huber]

I worked with it some more tonight and it looks like I would have to move it back 2 1/2 inches to clear the blade on a 45 degree cut.

It is kind of funny they talk about the stop having things that go into the fence so that noting will go behind it but then the last thing they show you is how to put on a face on it and covers the part were the stop would go into the fence.

I really like the way you can set the degrees and the stop is very good but I think I am just going to sell it. I don't see that I am going to gain anything with it over the EB-3.

I like my EB-3 real well and does a very good job. I have a V27 I use also so I guess I will just keep what I have.

[glenn bradley]

Bill, I accidentally nicked my fence once. I put a "beater" carbide tipped blade on and sawed it off even. The material cut very well. A bit of file or sandpaper work to ease the sharp edges and all was well. If you want to, I say cut it.

[Chris Barnett]

My fence came about one inch shorter than the usual length :D. Or might it have been sacrificed in the name of woodworking?

[Bill Huber]

Bill, I accidentally nicked my fence once. I put a "beater" carbide tipped blade on and sawed it off even. The material cut very well. A bit of file or sandpaper work to ease the sharp edges and all was well. If you want to, I say cut it.

Glenn at this point I just think I am going to sell it. I really don't like it as much as the EB-3 and I have the V-27 with my own fence on it and I use it for the band saw, table saw, sander and router table.

Last night I did some test cutting, I cut some scrap at 20 degrees and then changed the gauge but to 90 and made a cut on the other in of the board with both gauges.

I could change the settings faster on the EB-3 then the 1000se and it was just as accurate.

I then tried a stop test, set the stop on both at 8 inches and cut a board. The 1000se stop is really good and it worked just like it should. With the EB-3 I had to measure from the stop to the blade to make sure it was correct. There is a little movement in the stop on the EB-3 so I need to check it each time I set it.

The extension on the EB-3 is easier to pull out and requires no tools, just a knob to turn.

It still gets me that they did not put that 45 degree cut on the end of the fence. I don't cut a lot of angles but when I do I want the scrap to not get trapped under the blade.

There is no way I am going to do cuts on a bare aluminum fence that is as slick as glass. So why the big deal about the notches in the stop fitting into the fence so nothing can get behind it.

Oh well live and learn, everyone has their own likes and dislikes.

[Byron Trantham]

I don't have the 1000SE. I don't remember the model I have but it was the first one they came out with. I nicked it shortly after I got it. I haven't done it since. Where the blade nicked the aluminum it's shiny aluminum while the rest of it is anodized gold - a visual reminder to MOVE THE FENCE BACK! :mad: It's a pain to use on the right side of the blade because you have to "reconfigure it" to use it there. BUT the sucker is accurate and solid.