Lenox - Tri-master vs Woodmaster CT

[Eiji Fuller]

I have heard great things about the Tri-master but is it that much better than the Woodmaster? The woodmaster is carbide tipped blade that is designed for resaw applications and is also nearly 100.00 cheaper than the Tri-master. The tri-master carbide is is designed to cut non ferous metals, wood and some other stuff.

The woodmaster blades start at 1" and the trimaster start at 3/8".

I guess if I have a 1" woodmaster installed than my bandsaw is pretty much a dedicated resaw machine. If I got a 1/2" tri-master I can resaw and curve cut. hmmmm.....still a 100.00 more though:(

[Jeff Wright]

Visit Charles Plesums website here:

http://www.solowoodworker.com/tools/bandsaw.html

to get his suggestions for band saw blades. It is also worth the time to poke around his other information.

Of course, a call to Lennox will also be helpful. I picked up their catalog at one of the Major Woodworking Shows (in Atlanta) and it is informative.

Oh, and here is another post here on SCM by the respected Sam Blasco regarding the Lennox Woodmaster:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=66446

[Wilbur Pan]

I guess if I have a 1" woodmaster installed than my bandsaw is pretty much a dedicated resaw machine. If I got a 1/2" tri-master I can resaw and curve cut. hmmmm.....still a 100.00 more though:(

One way to look at this is that if you got a 1" woodmaster, you still would have to get a 1/2" carbide tipped bandsaw blade somewhere to make curved cuts, so that will shrink that $100 difference.

[Eiji Fuller]

I'm going with the Woodmaster 1".

I dont think I would want to do everything with a 1/2" Tri-master anyway. Maybe I'll just get a second bandsaw for the curved cuts. Grizzly practicaly gives their saws away anyway. :)

[Rye Crane]

Eiji,

I use both blades on my MM24. The trimaster produces a cut quality that will not need to be cleaned up prior to a glue up. The woodmaster CT is a great blade, priced right but the cut quality is also about 1/3 less. It's good but I have to use a hand plane or jointer to clean up a cut prior to glue. Like I said I use both and they last almost forever.

Good luck,
Rye Crane

[Loren Hedahl]

I'm going with the Woodmaster 1".

I dont think I would want to do everything with a 1/2" Tri-master anyway. Maybe I'll just get a second bandsaw for the curved cuts. Grizzly practicaly gives their saws away anyway. :)

Replacing a blade with a different width involves quite a bit of fiddling with guide readjustment and all -- not like changing a blade on a table saw.

Also band saws aren't real estate hogs.

I went through that decision awhile back and ended up with two. (The smaller cheapo get's most of the use!)

[Mike Heidrick]

One way to look at this is that if you got a 1" woodmaster, you still would have to get a 1/2" carbide tipped bandsaw blade somewhere to make curved cuts, so that will shrink that $100 difference.


I do not think you need a carbide blade for curved cuts. You can get by with a much cheaper 1/2" blade.

My resawking, trimaster, and woodmaster all give me similar quality cuts.

I bought a smaller bandsaw last weekend for curved cuts and am going to leave the ResawKing on the MM20 for now. I like the combo of the thin kerf RK and the driftmaster on the MM.